ultimate suspension? or turbo...?

built54

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I sold my fourwheeler so i can mod my car more. I've been considering the On3 turbo kit with the upgraded parts, which includes a tubular k member and coil overs. i've also considered just building the suspension front and back and stay n/a... I have about 2500 to spend, what would be the ultimate weight savings/performance suspension? I want the front to lift off the ground on slicks, what ever makes that possible down the road when i get more power. Im thinking a tube front suspenion kit with bump steer kit and coil overs, but im not sure about the rear? Long tubes would be a lot easier to put on with the tube k member, so maybe those too? I know its a personal preference what i should do but im debating what to do and would like some opinions. I dont want to waste money on long tubes if im gonna go turbo, which i really really want to do. any ideas? I have eibach springs now, tires/wheels, intake, exhaust and a tune, nothing major.
here it is as it sits, minus my front wheels that arent on yet, that are an inch wider, and my chin spoiler is on it now, not in the pic
iphonepics149.jpg
 
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glittle75

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I was in the same boat with my Mach about a year ago. I say full suspension then go power adder. Thats what I did and you get alot more out of the car than just throwing boost at it on stock suspension.

I went Tubular K and A's, Coilovers, bump steer, SFC's, control arms, and alot more little things to make the suspension work well. Then drove it N/A like that for a while adding little things along to prepare for the KB. got LT's, got a cobra tank and some pumps, got injectors, got a K&N, etc. etc. then saved and got the KB 2.1. threw it on and allready had all the supporting mods for it. and it drove just like the same car, but with more acceleration. I mean the suspension was tight and after the boost I didnt get the crazy, "my car is uncontrollable" feeling and having to learn to drive the car again. the suspension compliments the blower so much. I mean, first gear WOT is useless, but every other gear just plants the power and takes off.
 

95PGTTech

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it's going to be a task to get a turbo stick car at your weight to lift the front wheels. consider a different power adder or transmission, or stick to a more realistic goal (ET, mph, HP level, etc.)

Suspension first in a Mustang, always.
 

bwahl602

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Oh boy. I shouldn't reply.
Your goal is to get the front tires to lift huh? Cool. Can I come to your sweet 16 party??
 

built54

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Oh boy. I shouldn't reply.
Your goal is to get the front tires to lift huh? Cool. Can I come to your sweet 16 party??
Ok smart ass. I didn't say lift the front end with 2500 bucks. I mean my goal with the car over how ever many years it takes. I've got a 98' 5950lb 4x4 f150 running a 12 flat putting 575 to the wheels, I'm not a kid dick
 

slowr w/o blowr

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Build the suspension! Torque arm/ panhard bar, adjustable shocks. (I'd stay away from the strange 10ways IMO) FLSFC's, adjustable spring perch LCA's, and a MM HD rear sway bar. On the front Good struts along with no sway bar and stock springs. That should make it a damn good street car that will hook. Have fun playing with cars that are a little stronger than you. You will hook and they will spin.

This setup works great for me. BTW
 

built54

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Build the suspension! Torque arm/ panhard bar, adjustable shocks. (I'd stay away from the strange 10ways IMO) FLSFC's, adjustable spring perch LCA's, and a MM HD rear sway bar. On the front Good struts along with no sway bar and stock springs. That should make it a damn good street car that will hook. Have fun playing with cars that are a little stronger than you. You will hook and they will spin.

This setup works great for me. BTW

Thanks for a real reply here. So you would recommend this Instead of a tubular k member?
 
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AntiHeightPunk

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in my world adding a power adder should be the last link to the puzzle!
so do suspension, fuel, transmission and motor before you add the f/i
also the on3 kits are crappy chineese made kits i wouldnt touch one with a ten foot pole
 

bwahl602

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It's one thing if you have a performance objective of a 9second quarter. It's totally different if your goal is wheelies. You said you wanted to be able to pull the front tires up.. Why? So it looks cool? Won't get you down the track any faster. Really blame me for calling you out?

Want a real answer? It's not gonna make you happy. Okay here it goes

First, you need to decide what you want. If you want wheelies, buy really sticky tires, dump the clutch and pray only a few parts break. Decide if you want to drag race, corner carve or all around street car. Is this a daily driver or dedicated track car?

Second, do some research. Don't just ask what to do. You need to start reading the mountains of info available on this site and those like it. Find out how much stuff costs. Form a goal, plan and design and then go for it. You've got a shoddy goal and no planning. Get that mouse moving an start reading.

$2500 won't get you very far. Just building the rear suspension and diff to handle big power and hard launches will cost you that. Lower control arms, adjustable uppers, gears, shocks, 31 spline axles, studs and a carrier. Don't forget wheels and sticky tires. That's 2 grand right there an that's assuming you install it yourself. Car won't be faster, but it will get off the line quicker.

If you use the money for power. Well now your asking for problems. First your motor is not forged inside like the cobras. So your only gonna be able to put 450-500 tops to the wheels before things start going boom. You might be able to find an eBay turbo kit for $2500, but it will be nothing but problems. Don't forget necessary supporting mods for high HP. Things like fuel system, exhaust, tuning etc. That stuff is all expensive. For example, you wanna go forced induction? It's prolly a good idea to score a cobra fuel tank and pumps. That's 500 used right there. Theres a lot more than just buying some cheap turbo kit. Thats why the nice ones cost $10,000.

I'm not sure what's done to your car. My recommendation is to lower the car, get Lower control arms, wheels and tires and gears. I doubt you'll have any money left after that.

Personally, I don't feel it's appropriate to make a car faster until you have addressed the handling and most importantly, braking aspect. My cars suspension and brakes are almost completely redone with high performance stuff. I'm just now starting to consider making the car faster.

Again, form a goal and a plan. Most importantly, do some research. If you don't do some serious reading, your just gonna waste a bunch of that money.

And don't create new threads that say "I wanna do wheelies". Your just setting the tone to 16 year old that wants to show off. If you have a fast car that an pull the front tires off the ground, good for you. But the guys that have those cars started the build with a car that they wanted to go X.XX seconds with XXX horsepower.

Bill
 

VADEi2

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It's one thing if you have a performance objective of a 9second quarter. It's totally different if your goal is wheelies. You said you wanted to be able to pull the front tires up.. Why? So it looks cool? Won't get you down the track any faster. Really blame me for calling you out?

Want a real answer? It's not gonna make you happy. Okay here it goes

First, you need to decide what you want. If you want wheelies, buy really sticky tires, dump the clutch and pray only a few parts break. Decide if you want to drag race, corner carve or all around street car. Is this a daily driver or dedicated track car?

Second, do some research. Don't just ask what to do. You need to start reading the mountains of info available on this site and those like it. Find out how much stuff costs. Form a goal, plan and design and then go for it. You've got a shoddy goal and no planning. Get that mouse moving an start reading.

$2500 won't get you very far. Just building the rear suspension and diff to handle big power and hard launches will cost you that. Lower control arms, adjustable uppers, gears, shocks, 31 spline axles, studs and a carrier. Don't forget wheels and sticky tires. That's 2 grand right there an that's assuming you install it yourself. Car won't be faster, but it will get off the line quicker.

If you use the money for power. Well now your asking for problems. First your motor is not forged inside like the cobras. So your only gonna be able to put 450-500 tops to the wheels before things start going boom. You might be able to find an eBay turbo kit for $2500, but it will be nothing but problems. Don't forget necessary supporting mods for high HP. Things like fuel system, exhaust, tuning etc. That stuff is all expensive. For example, you wanna go forced induction? It's prolly a good idea to score a cobra fuel tank and pumps. That's 500 used right there. Theres a lot more than just buying some cheap turbo kit. Thats why the nice ones cost $10,000.

I'm not sure what's done to your car. My recommendation is to lower the car, get Lower control arms, wheels and tires and gears. I doubt you'll have any money left after that.

Personally, I don't feel it's appropriate to make a car faster until you have addressed the handling and most importantly, braking aspect. My cars suspension and brakes are almost completely redone with high performance stuff. I'm just now starting to consider making the car faster.

Again, form a goal and a plan. Most importantly, do some research. If you don't do some serious reading, your just gonna waste a bunch of that money.

And don't create new threads that say "I wanna do wheelies". Your just setting the tone to 16 year old that wants to show off. If you have a fast car that an pull the front tires off the ground, good for you. But the guys that have those cars started the build with a car that they wanted to go X.XX seconds with XXX horsepower.

Bill
This man knows the reality of modding :beer:.
My Mod fox project so far.
$4500 MM suspension all around a little bit of both worlds.
Teksid built 4.6 fully forged with arp hardware $3500
31 spline axles with 5 lug conversion $1500.
Fuel $1500 roughly
custom gauge setup $1100. I'm replacing all the gauges with speed hut.
Saleen replicas 18x9 with tires $1300
Plus about $1500 in misc parts for the mod conversion. I'm still missing the 6 speed and the power adder which I might go cheap for now until I can recover from this and pick up the On3 kit. But that's still going to set me back $2500 easily :(.

At the end once it's done well worth it. But It's been an expensive road. The perk is I have no car payment and I sold my 03 cobra to do this :eek:
 

built54

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It's lowered and I have tires/wheels. I'm going to build the front and rear suspension first, time to figure out what I need and want now...
 

VADEi2

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It's lowered and I have tires/wheels. I'm going to build the front and rear suspension first, time to figure out what I need and want now...

I went with a MM coil over setup up front with sway bar end links k-member and control arms. I got a great deal through Trbo Venom on this forum he is a dealer for MM. I also spoke to them and with their help I choose the right setup for my intended use.
 

speedofsound

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$2500 won't get you very far. Just building the rear suspension and diff to handle big power and hard launches will cost you that. Lower control arms, adjustable uppers, gears, shocks, 31 spline axles, studs and a carrier. Don't forget wheels and sticky tires. That's 2 grand right there an that's assuming you install it yourself. Car won't be faster, but it will get off the line quicker.

If you use the money for power. Well now your asking for problems. First your motor is not forged inside like the cobras. So your only gonna be able to put 450-500 tops to the wheels before things start going boom. You might be able to find an eBay turbo kit for $2500, but it will be nothing but problems. Don't forget necessary supporting mods for high HP. Things like fuel system, exhaust, tuning etc. That stuff is all expensive. For example, you wanna go forced induction? It's prolly a good idea to score a cobra fuel tank and pumps. That's 500 used right there. Theres a lot more than just buying some cheap turbo kit. Thats why the nice ones cost $10,000.

This was really what my post was getting at...just in a lot fewer words. :lol1:
 

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