Does anybody know the build of this cobra that is on 1320 videos that made 1300+hp racing a stock zr1?? Any info would be appreciated
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Twin turbo future build
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Does anybody know the build of this cobra that is on 1320 videos that made 1300+hp racing a stock zr1?? Any info would be appreciated
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Adrian Rivas is his name, not sure the details on the build. What specifically are you looking to find out?
I just watched the video again, been a couple years. The engine is a 5.1 stroker with twin precision 6766's. You can see the need for an auto and a real tire on the back. I don't want to take anything away from that car because it's awesome, but I would gap that thing bigly when it was in that state. I think he sold the car off and not sure where it is now.
Dayum that car made some good noise.
I follow him on IG : supersonic490
He still has the car. Now went with tubular front end, and much bigger twin turbos. It doesn't look done yet, but it will be a monster.
That guy made big power .... I was curious to know if that was on the iron block or if he went Teksid.
I follow him on IG : supersonic490
He still has the car. Now went with tubular front end, and much bigger twin turbos. It doesn't look done yet, but it will be a monster.
That guy made big power .... I was curious to know if that was on the iron block or if he went Teksid.
I love that setup and want to do something very similar. Any info would be great
From looking at it, that's a custom built turbo kit. Has a Sullivan intake, likely a built motor etc. If you have Facebook, find him on there and shoot him a message.
Thanks man appreciate it I’m just trying to figure out a nice build to do that’s going to take time once I start tearing the cobra apart
I suggest you think this one over a bit more.
That car you are inquiring about will be a major headache, will spend most of it's time in the garage with lots of downtime/frustration and will make for an awful street car that is not much fun to drive.
I would stick with a PD blower will be a much better all-around car to own and operate. ~600 hp will make for a more reliable and longer lived engine.
Am I weird for thinking that's half of the fun with building a car? That being said I'm going tvs for my cobra for it being much easier, and I'm currently doing a turbo build for my bullitt that's taken 3+years.
I'd say stay turbo on this build but set it up based on what you plan to do with the car. If it will rarely ever run below 5000rpm such as in a race car seeing only drag strip time then go for 67's on a 5.1 or 5.3, or start with a 5.4 and destroke that from 4.165 to 3.9", etc.
I wanted big power pump/race gas car (no e85 around here) from a streetable turbo setup, so I went with:
•5.3 bb stroker at 9.3/1
•ported gt500 heads
•mmr stage 3 cams
•twin 62/65 turbos
•forward headers/custom turbo kit
•fr500c intake manifold.
On 12psi, with a t56 and irs, I have 700wtq at 4000-6000rpm, and 800whp from 6100-7500rpm. It peaks like 813 iirc. It's excellent street car power. I have 250wtq all motor at 2000rpm, and over 500wtq by 3500. If I break boost at 3000rpm I have 10psi within 3 to 5 seconds or so.
The internet says my car should feel terrible and lag really bad. In real life, it launches very hard like a geared na car. I have 3.73's. It feels like I'm pulling something near a 1.75 60ft. I can comfortably jump out on bolt on srt8 keeps and almost keep with a tesla from a dig. I'm on 27" Royo drag radials. Aluminum block and tubular maximum motorsports suspension with brembos and rotary forged wheels. My front end is very light for a terminator. The whole car is 3375lbs with full interior. It drives better than stock apart from a slightly stiff ride. It's on coilovers.
I can easily keep pace and zip around traffic on the freeway in 5/6th gears which are viper overdrives, .74/.50, not the .80/.63 factory set.
My point in all this? By internet standards my car should suck and be broken lemon that blows head gaskets and can't spool and is awful at cornering and sucks at braking and on and on.
It's not. It's closing in on very well sorted if I'm honest. My iat's never cross 70° this time of year, and hover in the 50's. Even mid summer, 110° was rare to see.
I get 16+mpg, and the car makes 1200whp on 28psi. I drive it on 10-12psi which depending on the weather is 750-850whp.
But ya the internet is right and my real build is wrong. Unless you run twin 25mm turbos, the Internet says it is too laggy compared to a PD car and this matters because we all know the best way to dig race is when you have 600wtq at 2000rpm. Just run 555/05/17's. Preferably with a really heavy knock off wheel like 40lbs range each and for good measure be sure to get the 600wtq by running 20psi on a smallish blower with stock heads and cams to trap the heat real nice. And don't worry about headers, they are an old wives tale. Tune it was a gameboy for extra internet points and always double clutch so you can keep the stock clutch alive for ever. (So much sarcasm)
I wanted big power pump/race gas car (no e85 around here) from a streetable turbo setup, so I went with:
•5.3 bb stroker at 9.3/1
•ported gt500 heads
•mmr stage 3 cams
•twin 62/65 turbos
•forward headers/custom turbo kit
•fr500c intake manifold.
On 12psi, with a t56 and irs, I have 700wtq at 4000-6000rpm, and 800whp from 6100-7500rpm. It peaks like 813 iirc. It's excellent street car power. I have 250wtq all motor at 2000rpm, and over 500wtq by 3500. If I break boost at 3000rpm I have 10psi within 3 to 5 seconds or so.
The internet says my car should feel terrible and lag really bad. In real life, it launches very hard like a geared na car. I have 3.73's. It feels like I'm pulling something near a 1.75 60ft. I can comfortably jump out on bolt on srt8 keeps and almost keep with a tesla from a dig. I'm on 27" Royo drag radials. Aluminum block and tubular maximum motorsports suspension with brembos and rotary forged wheels. My front end is very light for a terminator. The whole car is 3375lbs with full interior. It drives better than stock apart from a slightly stiff ride. It's on coilovers.
I can easily keep pace and zip around traffic on the freeway in 5/6th gears which are viper overdrives, .74/.50, not the .80/.63 factory set.
My point in all this? By internet standards my car should suck and be broken lemon that blows head gaskets and can't spool and is awful at cornering and sucks at braking and on and on.
It's not. It's closing in on very well sorted if I'm honest. My iat's never cross 70° this time of year, and hover in the 50's. Even mid summer, 110° was rare to see.
I get 16+mpg, and the car makes 1200whp on 28psi. I drive it on 10-12psi which depending on the weather is 750-850whp.
But ya the internet is right and my real build is wrong. Unless you run twin 25mm turbos, the Internet says it is too laggy compared to a PD car and this matters because we all know the best way to dig race is when you have 600wtq at 2000rpm. Just run 555/05/17's. Preferably with a really heavy knock off wheel like 40lbs range each and for good measure be sure to get the 600wtq by running 20psi on a smallish blower with stock heads and cams to trap the heat real nice. And don't worry about headers, they are an old wives tale. Tune it was a gameboy for extra internet points and always double clutch so you can keep the stock clutch alive for ever. (So much sarcasm)
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My cobra now has a kenne bell 2.6 which is fun but want the turbo cobra life lol it’s making close to 600whp. it’ll be a long project for sure but want to make sure I’m doing everything right. I plan on selling the blower and stroke the motor but not sure where to turn for good parts and I like the way that guys turbos are setup also
Car now
My cobra is making close to 600hp now but want much more. This is going to be a project thing I’ve been wanting to do for some time now but just looking into what all I’ll need and where I can get good quality parts
Stick to the tried and true scientific formula. Basically Plan it out by figuring out goals and requisites, research, research the validity of that research. See what those parts and ideas have done for others short and long term in the real world. Factor for variables like your desired driving habits and uses of the car, the environments it'll encounter, and the elements, etc.
Tailor your take on previous builds to what you'll need to meet given conditions such as hot stop/go traffic, or high g force environment such as racing or drifting, ground clearance or longevity if it's a daily driver or could have to ever be used as backup transportation, etc.
Another thing to remember is you can usually pick 2 of 3 results. Fast, reliable, cheap.
You get tops 1 or 2 of these or end up with a nice futon:
Handles, drags, comfortable
You won't get:
Oem reliability, longevity, or drivability. You can come impressively close though. It's far easier to make a 400hp car work well than it is to make a 1200hp car do so.
Tailor your take on previous builds to what you'll need to meet given conditions such as hot stop/go traffic, or high g force environment such as racing or drifting, ground clearance or longevity if it's a daily driver or could have to ever be used as backup transportation, etc.
Another thing to remember is you can usually pick 2 of 3 results. Fast, reliable, cheap.
You get tops 1 or 2 of these or end up with a nice futon:
Handles, drags, comfortable
You won't get:
Oem reliability, longevity, or drivability. You can come impressively close though. It's far easier to make a 400hp car work well than it is to make a 1200hp car do so.
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