I recently picked up a 97 cobra oem shortblock for a future build. The two things I need from it are the block and the crank. I disassembled it today, block looks good from what I can see but the crank looks like it may need to be turned on the rods. Mains look good, 3 of rod bearings look a little rough. I'm going to run it by a machine shop to check it over but what is the opinion on having rod journals turned? Is there a point that you just scap it and move on? Thanks
Turning a Kellogg crankshaft
- Thread starter 94slowbra1
- Start date
Depends on the depth of damage. I honestly don't like crankshafts turned more the .010. I believe the limit as far a bearing availability is .030 though.
My crank has been turned 20 thousandths over, I've got 20 over King bearings. That's the thickest bearing they make to my knowledge.
Just feedback from my machine shop (specializes in crank work) you can turn these, weld these, but don't **** around for the price difference. If you're planing on boosting it think about the consequences, nothing about these engines are cheap if you have a serious failure. Wouldn't mess around with more than .10 over myself. If you're running a 2.9 (guessing close to 800hp) don't play games.
On another note, little feedback on the Manley/[3-Letter Cali Shop Cranks] but my guy isn't a huge fan and the gurus on another forum don't seem to be impressed...
Another have feedback?
On another note, little feedback on the Manley/[3-Letter Cali Shop Cranks] but my guy isn't a huge fan and the gurus on another forum don't seem to be impressed...
Another have feedback?
Last edited:
Yeah I'm not happy about it, got it that way. But yeah if I could mic it up the least possible that would be ideal
That should be absolutely zero issue for a good crank shop to deal with. It might only need a micropolish. Bottom line, get it to a competent crank shop and they will take care of it. My crank is .010" under and the car makes 1350whp, soon to be more. This crank has been in service for 15 years in my car.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking .10 would be safe. And if @badcobra has a .10 under crank is his car I know I'm good, I'm not going to make near his power, ha
I'll get it to the machine shop and see what they say.
I'll get it to the machine shop and see what they say.
Care to elaborate on whats wrong with the Manley crankshafts? I wouldn't expect manley to put out a sub par product.
I dont know if you'd say they're sub par but not better than a stock Kellogg. Rumor has it they're Chinese forgings. My shop advised stock is the preferred unless you want to go crazy and go billet which isn't necessary 99% of the time.
If you search on ModFords they're is some info to back that up as well.
Very interesting. I had a NIB Kellogg crankshaft that I unloaded years ago. Guess I should have kept it.
Sounds like they are no different then eagle cranks. They are manufactured in China a well. I wouldn't be surprised to find out they are one in the same and only the name and price changes. I remember the days when eagle made some really nice stuff too.
when I lost oil pressure my crank had to be turned more than .10 in some spots, builder said he preferred to do that over an eagle crank at the time
I know these cranks are supposed to be some of the best so I'm going to try and salvage this one. But at the same time I don't want to take too much off and weaken it.
Some of the fastest 4.6 cars run the Kellogg crank, has to be a reason for that
Some of the fastest 4.6 cars run the Kellogg crank, has to be a reason for that
Eagle has really gone downhill in the last few years. It used to be that eagle and scatt were what everyone upgraded too. I know there used to be a thread floating around an LS forum with stories of broken eagle cranks.
I'll probably get flamed for this but I don't see the point of upgrading to a steel crank unless you're above 600 at the wheels or spinning the engine past 6500 regularly. There was a thread on ModFords where someone took a cast crank to 800 and it lived until the snout broke off.
Well in already at the 800 mark and if I build a longblock ill be looking for more. So I'm not going to say I need all top of the line parts but I need stuff thats up to the task.
I got the crank for free basically because I needed the block and the rest of the parts came with it.
I got the crank for free basically because I needed the block and the rest of the parts came with it.
Dude Wtf? Seriously? What power level did that happen at?
Did you by chance contact them about the failure? I wouldn't expect them to do anything about it but I'd like to know the excuse.
1000hp, and no we did not. Guessing they wouldn’t do anything about it. It came out of the block in 2 pieces.
I know they wouldn't have done anything. I would have done it to see what their claimed safe limit was of the crank.
What I am really taking away from this is if you want to make serious hp find a good used Kellogg or go billet.
Kellogg is all 99.9% of us will need
Users who are viewing this thread
