Turbocharged or supercharged?

[LupercioStang]

I had a couple of questions, the first one is kind of a simple one. I am rebuilding my engine in my 96 cobra and if I want to put a supercharger on it do I have to go with forged internals? Or is it just recommended and get more power out of it? Just curious...and would you have to go with forged internals for a turbo or just a supercharger or both? Is it true that being turbocharged is less strainful for your engine since it isn't a instant boost all the time like a supercharger? That is what I have been hearing from quite a bit of people but some people tell me it's not true. I've also heard that turbo is a little easier on fuel economy? I'm looking for more power but the most power I can get isn't my intent because I'm a fulltime freshmen in college with a part time job so I want to keep it somewhat reliable, as far as engine strain and fuel economy...lol yet can still dust of other cars lol somepeople tell me turbos r mostly for imports but somepeople say that's just an old thought...what do you guys think? I was thinking bout getting a comp turbo for 1500 if I were to turbo...anyhelp would be great lol thanks aloott guyyyysss!!!!:beer:

 

[Prostyle]

Personaly it all depends on what you want. I love the feel and power of a turbo. Yes it does help out on fuel a little bit since there is no belt like a supercharger has. For the engine rebuild I would go with forged internals for the future. Yes it will be more expensive but later on down the road you can run more boostand not have to worry about the motor.

 

[Tabres]

Must be some part-time job you have for a college freshman to be able to afford a forged motor with forced induction. Have you ever priced out any of the necessary components? You're talking several thousands of dollars.

It sounds like you don't have any clue what you really want...

 

[03TRKB]

You don't have to put forged internals into it, but if you want more than 450rwhp you do. Keep in mind that fuel system, transmission and real end must be upgraded if yoir going for big power. Again fogs interals aren't nessicary unless you're going big. Yes, turbos are less strainful, they don't hit right away, and the same for Centri blowers, Roots and TS blowers hit right away. Yes, it helps gas mileage. Turbo's ARE NOT just for imports! Turbos are a better all around form of FI. And 1500 for a turbo is too much, for one for a stock engine at least. Comp has had some problems also, look into Precison, Garrett, and Borg Warner. Also turbo you need more than the turbo itself. You need hotside piping, an intercooler, intercooler piping, a blow off valve, and a wastegate. Also a bigger pump, injectors, and tune are a must. Also most kits you need a tubular k member. I think a "Build your own Vortech Kit" would be best for you. Good it, and reasearch more !

 

[96SVTKB]

IMO a twin screw is the way to go. It hits low, just a lot of fun to drive. I am a little biased though. If you want the low end tire roasting push you can't beat a TS blower. It is good as a dd but comes on strong a quick when needed.:banana:

 

[LupercioStang]

Must be some part-time job you have for a college freshman to be able to afford a forged motor with forced induction. Have you ever priced out any of the necessary components? You're talking several thousands of dollars.

It sounds like you don't have any clue what you really want...

Like I said before I'm not sure what I want that's is why I am asking for advice. And I have money saved up from working in high school for a long time, I know it cost several thousands of dollars, I'm not oblivious to the expense of major performance mods.

 

[Nightmare302]

Like I said before I'm not sure what I want that's is why I am asking for advice. And I have money saved up from working in high school for a long time, I know it cost several thousands of dollars, I'm not oblivious to the expense of major performance mods.

You made a post asking for information that is basic to "major performance". Then you tell us you know the pricing. It's ok to say that you weren't aware of something. You tell us your going to get a comp turbo for 1,500. Great, but you forgot about 1 million things before. You need to size your turbo based off the end result of the motor you end up building. Compression ratio, head choice, intake choice, cam choice can all change what you are wanting to do.

Next, you can't just buy a turbo and connect it to a Mustang. Our year mustangs are a rather large PITA to get a turbo to fit, the fastest solution without waiting for a kit to be built is to go with a pre made kit but don't forget to fit it will need tubular front suspension peices, which when you add those require (typically depends on your choice) coil over suspension, when you go coilover you should also replace your struts. Next we have our piping, our turbo, and suspension. Assuming your premade kit already comes with an intercooler, wastegate, and blow off valve we can now move on to the fuel system.

This will be in large part based off of overall PSI and power you wish to support. More than likely with this "1,500 comp turbo" we would need a rather large system. Prefabbed fuel systems such as glenns are an easy solution and are super easy to install but if you shop around and put it together yourself you can save a few hundred bucks. During the fuel system you will also need to choose injectors and a matching MAF, ensure that the MAF you choose also matches the kit. I.E. Hellion uses a draw thru system while most others use a blow thru meter setup.

We can now focus on the motor itself. For this big power turbo we can assume we need to a built motor with forged internals. Again, an easy solution is a crate motor from someone like MMR with an iron block and forged rod/pistons/crank. machine work and time on your own block can become extensive depending on who does the work but our alum blocks are rather light compared to the equal strength iron blocks. Let's assume you run stock cams/heads/intake but you will need to have the heads gone over. (Mind you while putting this together you will need countless gaskets, and misc nuts and bolts).

Now we have a motor ready for boost, a turbo kit ready to supply that boost, and a fuel system that can keep up. The only problem is our T-45 would last about 2 days behind that kind of power, so we look into built auto's (if you wanna go fast) or a T-56 (for fun!) other choices exist but I selected the msot common routes. The mangum in T-56 is supposedly awesome and is easy to drop in but you can run 03-04 cobra T-56 with some custom parts and make sure to switch to a 26 spline input shaft which also maens we have to replace the clutch/flywheel combo for the new input shaft and to support that power (options for this are abound but twin disk is the most street friendly assuming we are going manual) auto's will already need the flexplate anyway.

Now that the tranny can handle the power the rear end needs to as well. Budget builds range from 03-04 locker setups with 31 spline axles to some serious business with major spline counts and spools. After all this is done, we still need some way to tune the car to make the power. System range from stand alones to piggy backs and a quality tuner. After all this, we still haven't covered the rear suspension/tire combos to plant all the power or cage/support we will need either.

But, you already were aware of these costs... right?

Also, to answer the other questions. Forged internals are required because the process in which they are made make them MUCH more capable of handling the harsh temps/detonation that can result from forced induction. They themselves don't supply any "extra" power but in turn make it possible to make more safely. Turbo's CAN get better gas mileage due to the fact that it a more efficent system driving off of free power (exhaust) while superchargers rob power by using a belt. This also means you can "technically" make more power with a turbo setup though many other factors play a more important role.

Turbo's are not import only but are typically used because they can easily fit smaller turbos into the engine bay as well as the smaller motors supplied in them make it easier to notice the drag incurred from using a s/c setup.

Hope this helped as I was bored and this took awhile to type.