Tune up

[Chancey]

For the life of me I don’t understand how if we dont change the plugs every 3-4,000 miles these 5.8 shelbys start running less than special. I forget each time until it starts barely stumbling/surging a bit off of idle and then remember the plugs. The NGK TR6’s or 7’s both seem to do it. I am picky to a fault and really enjoy working on my car, so it doesn’t really bother me. No better way to see how the motor is doing inside too. Some say they go 10,000, or more with no issues. I am in the group that has to change them out every 3,000 or so to keep her running just right (or to my satisfaction) at least. Amazingly they look good and the gap hasn’t changed each time I pull the “old” ones either. Maybe its because I drive the piss out of it as a daily?

 

[biminiLX]

Please understand the stock range is equivalent to TR7. Slightly higher compression and 14-15psi stock means you definitely want to keep a colder plug in it, especially DD on pump gas.
Probably can try the Iridiums and it may give longer plug life.
-J

 

[Blkblk13car]

Mine had original plugs at 60k miles, when it finally started missing we changed em.

 

[Chancey]

Mine had original plugs at 60k miles, when it finally started missing we changed em.

Was yours still stock at that point blkblk?

 

[Blkblk13car]

Was yours still stock at that point blkblk?

Yeah it’s never been modified- I’m still on a ESP warranty. I have the intake baffle delete and that’s it lol

 

[efurlong]

Does anybody use "anti seize" on the spark plug threads for these cars? I've always usit it on my Harley...aluminum heads - steel threads - dissimilar metals...

 

[GTMAN212]

Does anybody use "anti seize" on the spark plug threads for these cars? I've always usit it on my Harley...aluminum heads - steel threads - dissimilar metals...

Do not use anti seize on your spark plugs.

 

[GTMAN212]

For the life of me I don’t understand how if we dont change the plugs every 3-4,000 miles these 5.8 shelbys start running less than special. I forget each time until it starts barely stumbling/surging a bit off of idle and then remember the plugs. The NGK TR6’s or 7’s both seem to do it. I am picky to a fault and really enjoy working on my car, so it doesn’t really bother me. No better way to see how the motor is doing inside too. Some say they go 10,000, or more with no issues. I am in the group that has to change them out every 3,000 or so to keep her running just right (or to my satisfaction) at least. Amazingly they look good and the gap hasn’t changed each time I pull the “old” ones either. Maybe its because I drive the piss out of it as a daily?

Use the NGK NGK TR7-IX plugs gapped appropriately to the amount of boost you are running.

 

[GTMAN212]

Here is a good article from vmp performance on what spark plugs they recommend.

Copy SCT Guide

 

[RedVenom48]

Do not use anti seize on your spark plugs.

If the plugs have a shiny coating on the plug threads, no anti seize. If dull, a SMALL dab of copper anti seize is ok.

 

[Robert M]

At first when I did spark plug changes in the Ford DOHC 5.4 I started with the regular 5/8 plug socket and an extension..........and the black tape to help keep the two together "hoping" that the socket would not stay attached to the plug, wayyyyyy down in the hole while I had the extension and ratchet in my hand and not attached to the stuck plug socket after the Black tape let go.............I screwed around with that a couple of times and thought "there has to be a wiser way".....So I then moved to a deeper socket.......

But then that socket, still had the rubber spark plug retainer inside and sometimes those rubber retainers hold onto the porcelain rather tightly and the socket still wants to fight releasing from the plug......Plus the socket was still below the valve cover and down in the hole making removal a PITA sometimes.

So then I got a little wiser and went with an even longer socket, but this time with a magnet to hold the plug instead of rubber, this worked well the socket was up to the top of the valve cover hole and the magnet released rather smoothly.........

and these were my spark plug changing tools along with a couple of different length extensions and a swivel head Snap-on ratchet...........

Now finally for my next spark plug change I believe I have found the best option for these plugs that are deep in the hole, require and extension and also require working around a throttle body on the rear two on the drivers side........and it is a magnetic retainer.....The attached swivel allows the extension to angle as needed, when working around the T.B., it is long enough to get well out of the hole but not hit the hood, it has the magnetic retainer for plug securing and easy release, it seems like it may be the best tool for the job?

No more Black tape holding socket to extension foolishness, no more plug stuck to socket rubber retainer wayyy down in the hole, no more changing extension lengths and adding swivels to get the right angle around the T.B.............

Just pull out the socket with captured extension and do the plug change.

R