Tune or gears.

[Nineonesix]

Tune for $400
Gears (4.10) for $600


*Also just so i dont have to make a new thread. How strong are the aluminum blocks that come with our cars. Not just the internals but the block itself. Im just curious

 

[03MACH150BP]

Gears if I had to choose. Are you remembering the speedo correction you will have to do????

 

[Nineonesix]

Gears if I had to choose. Are you remembering the speedo correction you will have to do????

Yea I have an xcal with a mail order tune, but last I tried to dyno it, it was running to lean. I dont know if that was caused by a coil pack going back that I fixed.

 

[Mr. Mach-ete]

410 gears for sure. It'll feel like a different car.

 

[03machme]

i say 4.10s thats the next mod going on mine and our blocks can hold up to something like 900 or something crazy high like that no need to worry about the block itself

 

[kens88gt]

Go with the 4.10's. Did mine a couple of months ago and wow what a difference! Definitely worth the $'s.

 

[03DSGMach1]

Do the gears you will notice a big difference!

But if you plan on doing some drag racing, why don't you upgrade everything at once while the entire rear is apart.

 

[Nineonesix]

Do the gears you will notice a big difference!

But if you plan on doing some drag racing, why don't you upgrade everything at once while the entire rear is apart.

What else would I need? I have an auto so ive been told it wont put as much load on the rear.

 

[03MACH150BP]

What else would I need? I have an auto so ive been told it wont put as much load on the rear.

The axles and carrier are fine for now. If you upgrade to a higher stall torque converter then you will need to think about 31 spine stuff out back.

Since you are changing the gears you can get ride of the 10lb dog bone that sits under the pumpkin.

MM lower control arms would be a good upgrade right now and allows you to eliminate the quad shocks.

Tokico Dspec shocks and struts allows you to adjust for maximum traction at the tract and a nice smooth street ride.

 

[Darko]

Go with Motive or Ford Racing 4:10's!

 

[ponygt65]

You guys are ALL on crack. :lol:

He just got done saying he's running lean and you all jump on teh gear bandwagon? I think 'gears' gets suggested WAY too easily.

I do agree that gears is a worth while mod....but before you do anything I think you should take the car to teh dyno make a few pulls and make sure the COP issue you fixed took care of the lean issue.....which, pending your mods, I would be surprised if it did. Mail order tunes are good to get you by until you can 'fine tune' it on a dyno.

If you are running 12.5-13.2 I would go with the gears......if any leaner, get a full on dyno tune.

BTW - what are your mods and what was your A/F?


EDIT: think of it this way..........if you put the gears in and are running lean.......what's going to happen when you have lots O fun with those gears?.....go into closed loop and run lean like crazy.

 

[Nineonesix]

You guys are ALL on crack. :lol:

He just got done saying he's running lean and you all jump on teh gear bandwagon? I think 'gears' gets suggested WAY too easily.

I do agree that gears is a worth while mod....but before you do anything I think you should take the car to teh dyno make a few pulls and make sure the COP issue you fixed took care of the lean issue.....which, pending your mods, I would be surprised if it did. Mail order tunes are good to get you by until you can 'fine tune' it on a dyno.

If you are running 12.5-13.2 I would go with the gears......if any leaner, get a full on dyno tune.

BTW - what are your mods and what was your A/F?


EDIT: think of it this way..........if you put the gears in and are running lean.......what's going to happen when you have lots O fun with those gears?.....go into closed loop and run lean like crazy.

Ill post the chart I got from my dyno run when I get home. Since photobucket is blocked at work.

 

[Nineonesix]

Down below was the run with the bad Coil and tune, xpipe, and jlt.

 

[Nineonesix]

 

[ponygt65]

Something just doesn't seem right. Even if you have an Auto tranny.

266RWHP/223RWTQ??? WTH is up with that?

A/F isn't TOO bad. I think it should be a tad richer. Not only that but if you were to graph that A/F it sould be too wavy. it should be smoothened out.


It's possible the bad coil had something to do with the funky numbers (timing/light misfire). Seeing only makes me reinforce my suggestion. I would take it to a dyno shop, pay teh $75 or $125 or whatever it is to do 3 pulls with a A?F readings. Pending tranny, you should be roughly ~280-290RWHP and 310-320 RWTQ. THat dyno sheet isnt' even close to that. But to be honest, I wouldn't take it abck there. Unless that is a 'dynoday' 'quicky' printout, I would go to a different shop. Hell, that thing doesnt' even say if they are STD or SAE numbers.

If your numbers and graph isn't at least close to the norm, I would tune it....and forget about the gears for now.

 

[Nineonesix]

Something just doesn't seem right. Even if you have an Auto tranny.

266RWHP/223RWTQ??? WTH is up with that?

A/F isn't TOO bad. I think it should be a tad richer. Not only that but if you were to graph that A/F it sould be too wavy. it should be smoothened out.


It's possible the bad coil had something to do with the funky numbers (timing/light misfire). Seeing only makes me reinforce my suggestion. I would take it to a dyno shop, pay teh $75 or $125 or whatever it is to do 3 pulls with a A?F readings. Pending tranny, you should be roughly ~280-290RWHP and 310-320 RWTQ. THat dyno sheet isnt' even close to that. But to be honest, I wouldn't take it abck there. Unless that is a 'dynoday' 'quicky' printout, I would go to a different shop. Hell, that thing doesnt' even say if they are STD or SAE numbers.

If your numbers and graph isn't at least close to the norm, I would tune it....and forget about the gears for now.

It ran a little higher in the rpm wise, I saw him highlight some stuff and delete it off the page before he printed it. I did see a graph but he didnt print it. Besides I have no other choice I know of no other place around the sacramento area that has a dyno.

Its $80 dollars to get the 3 pulls (last two times I went I only got one each due to a flat tire and detonating) He said 13's is way to lean for these motors..seeing how im not a tuner I wasnt going to aruge agasint his words. He said he'll take $100 off the dyno tune ($500 total) and not charge me for the second run.

I hope most of it was due to a bad coil or something, because even at 260 I would expect that being stock, but are you trying to tell me the xpipe and rai and tune did nothing?

To end this long rant, instead of paying $80 for just a run should I fork over the extra 300 just to get my own tune for it. Or go with gears like everyone haas and will always say. It might be awhile until I come up with some extra spending cash. Unless I should just save it all for a rainy day lol. So many options so little money.

 

[zlocke17]

i would get a tune if it is lean. i wouldnt wanna run unless mine was running right. gears will just make the problem worse. or more noticeable

 

[Nineonesix]

i would get a tune if it is lean. i wouldnt wanna run unless mine was running right. gears will just make the problem worse. or more noticeable

Just to put it out there as well, is I dont believe I should be lean anymore considering im back on the factory tune and just and xpipe now.

 

[ponygt65]

It ran a little higher in the rpm wise, I saw him highlight some stuff and delete it off the page before he printed it. I did see a graph but he didnt print it. Besides I have no other choice I know of no other place around the sacramento area that has a dyno.

Its $80 dollars to get the 3 pulls (last two times I went I only got one each due to a flat tire and detonating) He said 13's is way to lean for these motors..seeing how im not a tuner I wasnt going to aruge agasint his words. He said he'll take $100 off the dyno tune ($500 total) and not charge me for the second run.

I hope most of it was due to a bad coil or something, because even at 260 I would expect that being stock, but are you trying to tell me the xpipe and rai and tune did nothing?

To end this long rant, instead of paying $80 for just a run should I fork over the extra 300 just to get my own tune for it. Or go with gears like everyone haas and will always say. It might be awhile until I come up with some extra spending cash. Unless I should just save it all for a rainy day lol. So many options so little money.

First 13s is NOT too lean for these cars. Mid 13s IS. The A/R you show IMO is too lean. It's very possible that tuner is just thinking with the 'it's better to be safe than sorry' scenario. However alot of N/A 4v's are runnning in the 12.8-13.2 range. Some run best around 12.5. Every car is different and it will take a dyno session to get that figured out.

Secondly, 260 IS stupidly low for a modded tuned mach. Even an auto would put down better numbers than that. (which you haven't told me which one you have).

Thirdly, it's been a while since I've gotten an N/A tune, but $500 (WITH $100 off) seems a tad high IMO, UNLESS that includes him giving you the handheld. I would call Shaun at AED. He has a shop in Sacramento and a Dyno shop in San Jose. I don't know if he has a dyno in his Sac shop though. However, he is one of the best. - http://www.advancedenginedevelopment.com/services.html

Fourth - it's nto really a matter of the mods not giving you added performance. the mods you have in themselves won't add that much power...some, but not much. In order to take advantage of them, adjustments need to be made and there comes the 'tune' into the equation. If the tune isnt' up to par or if there is something else wrong, then you will get what you have. I think the dyno you provided was a result of a bad coil and a bad mail order tune (which I never advise keeping for a long period of time).

Fifth - Again, I would NOT get the gears until you know for sure the car is tuned correctly. If you are running lean or have poor timing and install those gears....well, your right foot may have more fun than the tune will allow the motor to if you catch my drift.

 

[Nineonesix]

Secondly, 260 IS stupidly low for a modded tuned mach. Even an auto would put down better numbers than that. (which you haven't told me which one you have).

It is an auto.

Thirdly, it's been a while since I've gotten an N/A tune, but $500 (WITH $100 off) seems a tad high IMO, UNLESS that includes him giving you the handheld. I would call Shaun at AED. He has a shop in Sacramento and a Dyno shop in San Jose. I don't know if he has a dyno in his Sac shop though. However, he is one of the best. - http://www.advancedenginedevelopment.com/services.html

Its $500 before the $100 off. So itll cost me $400.

Fourth - it's nto really a matter of the mods not giving you added performance. the mods you have in themselves won't add that much power...some, but not much. In order to take advantage of them, adjustments need to be made and there comes the 'tune' into the equation. If the tune isnt' up to par or if there is something else wrong, then you will get what you have. I think the dyno you provided was a result of a bad coil and a bad mail order tune (which I never advise keeping for a long period of time).

I already called the shop and he is going to have his turner give me a call when he gets back. The shop is called force fed performance...ever heard of them? I'd really rather not have to drive to san jose lol.

Fifth - Again, I would NOT get the gears until you know for sure the car is tuned correctly. If you are running lean or have poor timing and install those gears....well, your right foot may have more fun than the tune will allow the motor to if you catch my drift.

Well I have taken off the mail order since the last dyno, but ive called in and am pretty set in on the tune. The gears can come later this year. Although I believe it was the tune that made the car run lean.

Also thanks for the help.