troubles codes... again...help please

[02_lightning_NP]

OK guys i went out to meet the guys tonight and while i was sitting in the parking lot getting warm (engine on and heater on setting three) i threw three codes. the first code I've never send before ....P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature to enter Closed Loop, what does this mean and how do i fix it? and the other two were the usual p0171 and P0174 which means when i installed my new MP blower it most likely didn't seal right and is pulling outside air and dirt and nice yummy things. Ive already checked all the hoses after the MAF and none are loose or cracked and everything's nice and snug so I'm not pulling any outside air in from my vacuum lines or anything that's why i figured its either my plenum or blower. any other ideas? like how did you guys seal your blowers when you installed them, gasket or gasket sealer/maker? but my main concern is the coolant code because I've never seen that on before...anyone else have that issue before. and what does it mean exactly please

 

[Scuba-Matt]

The PO125 means your coolant is not getting hot enough to enter closed loop for the computer. and the 171 and 174 are lean codes. I still would go over the vacuum lines one more time. your seeing outside air from somewhere. Did you check the rubber elbow on the bottom rear of the inter cooler/ intake housing?

 

[02_lightning_NP]

yeah i checked all the elbows that hook intot he various positions and even clamped some to make sure. i dont know im just gonna have to rip it all off and start over i guess and go really slow this time making sure i dont miss a thing. and what should i do about my coolant, i think im running a 160 thermostat cause i thought i would beperfect. maybe since up here and we use the heater on full blast cause it gets so cold i should get a 180, what do you think?

 

[sethlovesfords]

go back to 180*. I had the same problem. This will fix that code

 

[gen2lightning]

check your PCV valve?

 

[robbyb]

While you guys answer his questions, this is what came up for mine.
P1450 Unable To Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum

Has it came up for any1 else? How urgent of a problem is it.

 

[AKPony]

I agree 180 thermostat for up here buddy. I didn't know you were running one that cold. For robbyb's question any chance you didn't tighten your gas cap all the way?

 

[blownsvtlightning]

While you guys answer his questions, this is what came up for mine.
P1450 Unable To Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum

Has it came up for any1 else? How urgent of a problem is it.

yours is most likely a blocked canister vent solonoid, might have dirt or spider web or something in it...

 

[Taunto]

do you have kind of small rough idle? if so get some intake cleaner and spray it around ur vacuum lines, blower and midplate. see if it idles any better. an engine can basically run on intake cleaner,

 

[robbyb]

yours is most likely a blocked canister vent solonoid, might have dirt or spider web or something in it...

where do i find this canister vent solonoid you speak of? noob here

 

[Dr. Matt]

I agree with the others. 180* T stat. fixes the new code. Also, do you have a wideband? How does the truck idle and run? If you still have the EGR unplug the vac line to the valve and see if that solves your lean condition.

 

[02_lightning_NP]

i ordered me a new t stat and the truck runs fine, idles a little funny sometimes but hardly noticable. i can almost hear it pulling air but in all honesty sinc ethe new sc swap it could just be the sound from the sc pulling the air. i dont know thats the problem. I took everything off except the sc and retightened everything and checked the airlines over and over and everything is tight. and no i dont have a wideband yet, i just ordered one a couple days ago. and yes im still using my EGR...for some odd reason. i dont know. but yeah i thought everything was fine she was running good and then today after about 100 miles of driving the dang same codes came up p0171 and p0174. so i really dont know brother. willing to make a trip tofairbanks...lol

 

[Dr. Matt]

I'm willing but my schedule isn't going to let it happen any time soon. I bet you'll find it's just the tune once you get a wideband installed. If it was a vaccum leak or EGR problem it wouldn't run/idle that well. I think I'd stay out of the boost until you get a read on your AFR.

 

[IUP99snake]

I hate to revive an old thread, but did you get this figured out??

I having the same problems. It throws the lean codes in both banks.
And when I hook it up to a data logger, the long term fuel trims LTFT are above 10 for both banks at idle, so I know there's a problem.

The PCV has breathers on both sides instead of being connected to a vacuum source.

All my emissions stuff is shut off in the tune, but it was all connected still. So, I decided to eliminate the possibility of vacuum leaks by plugging off the vacuum lines to everything except the boost gauge, bypass valve, HVAC, and fuel rail pressure sensor. Before and after, it pulled 20 inches of vacuum at idle...

I cleaned out the MAF and made sure it was clocked properly.

The only other thing I can think it would be is the 02 sensors. But when I data log them, they are showing a slightly rich reading (averaging higher than 450 mv during their cycle.
They have 90,000 miles on them... So who knows. I just hate replacing sensors without knowing for sure that's the problem. But that's the last thing I can think of before I just take it to the tuner and let him see if it's a problem with the tune.

 

[DolSVT00]

I hate to revive an old thread, but did you get this figured out??

I having the same problems. It throws the lean codes in both banks.
And when I hook it up to a data logger, the long term fuel trims LTFT are above 10 for both banks at idle, so I know there's a problem.

The PCV has breathers on both sides instead of being connected to a vacuum source.

All my emissions stuff is shut off in the tune, but it was all connected still. So, I decided to eliminate the possibility of vacuum leaks by plugging off the vacuum lines to everything except the boost gauge, bypass valve, HVAC, and fuel rail pressure sensor. Before and after, it pulled 20 inches of vacuum at idle...

I cleaned out the MAF and made sure it was clocked properly.

The only other thing I can think it would be is the 02 sensors. But when I data log them, they are showing a slightly rich reading (averaging higher than 450 mv during their cycle.
They have 90,000 miles on them... So who knows. I just hate replacing sensors without knowing for sure that's the problem. But that's the last thing I can think of before I just take it to the tuner and let him see if it's a problem with the tune.

Its not the 02's because the likelyhood of both going out at the same time is extremely low and thats what it would take to throw both bank codes.

You have unmetered air coming in post maf or your maf is not scaled correctly for the air the engine is consuming.

If you were recently tuned and the code came up its a scaling thing.

If it was a good running tune and it just started having this problem, its a vaccuum leak, and one that affects both banks, not just one like a valve cover line or delete. There is a vaccuum line under the supercharger in the bottom of the turkey pan in the verry back near the transmission, it gets hot and stretches then pops a hole and leaks like a sivv.

As for OP, in cold climates the warm up time has to be adjusted in the tune to allow for lower temp thermostats.

 

[IUP99snake]

Its not the 02's because the likelyhood of both going out at the same time is extremely low and thats what it would take to throw both bank codes.

You have unmetered air coming in post maf or your maf is not scaled correctly for the air the engine is consuming.

If you were recently tuned and the code came up its a scaling thing.

If it was a good running tune and it just started having this problem, its a vaccuum leak, and one that affects both banks, not just one like a valve cover line or delete. There is a vaccuum line under the supercharger in the bottom of the turkey pan in the verry back near the transmission, it gets hot and stretches then pops a hole and leaks like a sivv.

As for OP, in cold climates the warm up time has to be adjusted in the tune to allow for lower temp thermostats.

Thanks! I don't have a roots blower, so I'm not sure which vacuum like you are referring to under the supercharger in the back near the transmission. I've since deleted every vacuum line on my car except for the HVAC, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, Bypass Valve, and Boost Gauge. All the other vacuum fittings that would be used for the EGR and EVAP crap are plugged because those systems are disabled in the tune. Otherwise, it would have thrown codes for those as well! ha!

I'm beginning to think it's the tune. I haven't had the car tuned since around 2006, and I don't remember ever not having these codes since the car was tuned. I had other problems with the car during that time, and I always thought it might be one of those problems. But the lean codes persist.

One thing though: I'm pretty sure the shop tuned it when it was leaking boost and they didn't even know about it. There is a flange that bolts up to the downstream side of the 90MM Lightning MAF. But the plastic flange on the MAF doesn't make a very good mating surface and I noticed that it blew out the gasket a few months after the tune.

When this new motor was tuned, it only made 414 HP @ 6 LBS, which was pretty low in my opinion. It should have been making about 10LBS, and 450 or so. But I thought it was because the 03-04 heads flow better than my 99 heads and have a lower powerband. More flow, less rpm = less peak boost. Also, being that it's not forged, I thought the low number was because of an extremely conservative tune.

I didn't notice the leak until after a few months. I ended up sealing the MAF and flange with JB weld so it would be impossible for air to leak again in that area. Instantly, the car had a perfect idle, it made 11 LBS of boost, never stalled under decel, and ran like it got it's mojo back.

It's possible that the shop created the tune and compensated for the downstream leak without knowing there was an actual boost leak. So, when I fixed it, everything changed.

But honestly, I don't remember exactly when the lean codes started. It could have even been before I fixed that boost leak on the downstream side of the MAF. It could have been after. I wish I could remember.

But since the leak was right before the air entered the MAF metering circuit, the leak could have consisted of a mixture of both metered and un metered air. That explains the surging idle and stalling before it was fixed.

At this point, the only way to find out is to just take it to the shop and have them do a new tune. Since I live in FL now, I can't take it to the original shop it was tuned at in PA.

I'm going to do one more check. I'm gonna bypass all the blower tubing and connect the MAF directly to the intake inlet elbow and put an air filter on the end, just as if it were a cold-air intake on a N/A setup. That will take boost completely out of the equation. But still, if it doesn't match whatever it was tuned for, the problem won't go away.

But still, my 02 sensors are original to the car and they are approaching 95,000 miles. I've since replaced my engine 3 times since then (the last time being in 2005 when it was last tuned). Even if I go get it tuned to fix the problem, it would be wise to have fresh 02 sensors, right?

Anyway, sorry for the long response. I really appreciate your help. I'm trying to decide if I should take it to Lamotta's here in Longwood FL and burn an entire paycheck on a dyno tune and related work, or see if I can find an email tuner/datalogger. If it's not one thing it's another. Oy. I wish I could just send my computer back to the original tuner, but it doesn't work like that anymore.