Trouble w/ FRPP Clutch Line

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
Looking for a little bit of help installing the FRPP clutch line M-7512-A. The line that came in the box looks nothing like the line on the instructions. I also found a few pictures on a another site where the line doesn't look like mine at all. Here's what I got:

WhatMineLooksLikeBox_zps2ebe1646.jpg


Here's what I found on another site and looks exactly like the one on the instructions.

WhatItShouldLookLikeBox_zpsd6c97fba.jpg


I tried a trial fit and mine is not bent properly and can't clear the brake booster and/or the inner fender. Has anybody else seen one like the one I got?

Also, what's the trick getting the trans side of the line in? There's no room for my fingers up there.
 

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
How come your line is not in a white FRPP box??? Does your box have the correct part # on it??

Maybe you were shipped an incorrect part??
 

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
How come your line is not in a white FRPP box??? Does your box have the correct part # on it??

Maybe you were shipped an incorrect part??

The picture is the line sitting inside the box. It is a white box with the FRPP label stating the correct part number. Either the wrong line was boxed up, or my line was not bent properly or FRPP changed vendors and/or design. If that's the case, the new design doesn't fit.

Still would like to know how to get the line into the trans portion. Not much room between the connection and trans tunnel.
 

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
Sounds to me like the wrong line is boxed up. I would return it and get another one.

I haven't taken a look under there as I'm planning to change the line also (will take a look tomorrow) but if it's that tight under there probably a long thin flat blade screwdriver to pull the clip out and long needlenose pliers to pull and insert the line into the trans should do the trick.
 

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
Sounds to me like the wrong line is boxed up. I would return it and get another one.

I haven't taken a look under there as I'm planning to change the line also (will take a look tomorrow) but if it's that tight under there probably a long thin flat blade screwdriver to pull the clip out and long needlenose pliers to pull and insert the line into the trans should do the trick.

Getting the clip out doesn't look too bad. It looks like the hard part is bending the hose into position and snapping it into place. Take a look tomorrow and tell me what you think.
 

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
will do. Did you already detach the stock line from the trans?? How hard was it to do that? There's no point in trying to attach the line you have since chances are it is not the correct line and bent incorrectly from your photos.
 
Last edited:

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
will do. Did you already detach the stock line from the trans?? How hard was it to do that? There's no point in trying to attach the line you have since chances are it is not the correct line and bent incorrectly from your photos.

No, I didn't. As soon as I took the new line out of the box, I thought it looked different from the installation manual. I did try and thread it down w/o removing the old line. The bends in the upper end won't allow it to fit. As to your question though, it doesn't look too hard to take apart. It's the getting it back together that I see being a b*tch.

Has anybody bought the FRPP line and have it look like mine?
 

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
ok I took a look under my car and yeah it's tight where the line goes into the bell housing. From what I can see the line comes straight down where it attaches. I think a long pair of angled needlenose pliers should do the trick to remove and install the line.

0267581_hr4c.jpg


I saw this video on youtube where this shop mentions the reason why the stock line is restrictive, I hope the replacement lines that gets installed are less restrictive and the stock line is not replaced only because we are changing out a plastic line for steel braided.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_5U1j-gXGc
 

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
ok I took a look under my car and yeah it's tight where the line goes into the bell housing. From what I can see the line comes straight down where it attaches. I think a long pair of angled needlenose pliers should do the trick to remove and install the line.

0267581_hr4c.jpg


I saw this video on youtube where this shop mentions the reason why the stock line is restrictive, I hope the replacement lines that gets installed are less restrictive and the stock line is not replaced only because we are changing out a plastic line for steel braided.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_5U1j-gXGc

I found a few install threads on other sites too. You are correct about the pliers. Most people are using 8-11 inch needle nose with a 45 or 90 degree angle. There is another trick that says it's easier to remove the elbow off the trans, swap it onto the line and then snap the assembly back onto the trans. That looks infinitely easier than trying to get the line snapped into the elbow while it's still attached to the trans.

I don't know about the stock line being restrictive, I believe the real problem is the plastic swells when it gets hot and then can't create the pressure needed to work the throwout bearing properly - causing the clutch not to disengage quick enough.

On a side note, I got off the phone with FRPP engineering. I'm the second person to call in the last week about the line not being bent properly. They're checking to see if the part has been revised or did the vendor put the wrong part in the box.
 
Last edited:

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
I don't know about the stock line being restrictive, I believe the real problem is the plastic swells when it gets hot and then can't create the pressure needed to work the throwout bearing properly - causing the clutch not to disengage quick enough.

I don't think the stock line is really the restriction, in the link to that video I posted that shop said that the restriction is on the back side of the fittings with the o-ring seal. When they cut off the fittings they noticed the diameter of the hole on the back of the fitting is much smaller than the opening at the front. Check out the video if you didn't check it out already and you'll know what I mean.

As for me yesterday did an order with Van and I'm getting his clutch line, once I start installing it I'll post here as to how it went.

Tony
 

Myfast70

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
1,128
Location
Sun City, Az
4th gen F-Bodies had the same clutch issues with sticking and missed shift. They do a mod to the stock lines called "the drill mod". You remove the line and drill the end out with an 1/8th drill bit. Once completed all of the issues went away.
 

Ky GT500

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
1,606
Location
Kentucky
As for me yesterday did an order with Van and I'm getting his clutch line, once I start installing it I'll post here as to how it went.

Tony

It's fairly easy to do, a lot easier than trying to get that rigid FRPP line in. :thumbsup:
 

BCPD199

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
431
Location
Palm Coast, FL
It's fairly easy to do, a lot easier than trying to get that rigid FRPP line in. :thumbsup:

Ford confirmed that the clutch line has been changed to my design. They supposedly had problems with the original design rubbing in places. I couldn't find any complaints on line about that. This new design I have is supposed to alleviate that. I guess it does by not fitting at all! I'm ordering the black (stealth) line from JPC Racing. I agree, it will be a lot easier with braided hose, not mention $150 extra in my wallet!
 

Ky GT500

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
1,606
Location
Kentucky
At the bell housing end how did you remove the stock line and install the clutch line??

Pull clip, wiggle and pull to unseat the O ring, snap clip back on fitting, insert new line into fitting and push to clip in, done. Got to mine from the bottom with car on a lift.
 

Cman01

hello
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Toronto
Yes, I understand that's basically how it's done on both ends but the tranny side is way more difficult due to space limitations. Wondering if you had any tips for that side to make the re&re easier.
 

Ky GT500

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
1,606
Location
Kentucky
Yes, I understand that's basically how it's done on both ends but the tranny side is way more difficult due to space limitations. Wondering if you had any tips for that side to make the re&re easier.

It is hard to get to, pretty much have to do it by feel. Mine may have been somewhat easier since I was doing the LT's at the same time. No tricks for you, just patience.
 

Ky GT500

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
1,606
Location
Kentucky
not even one??? C'mon!!!!! :D

ok

Man, I can't even come up with anything off the wall.

The line is doable, just not easily accessed. When mine was done, I remember reaching up alongside the bell housing to get to the line. Think we used a small screwdriver to pop the clip and just got ahold of the line and wiggled/pushed up the line to un-seat the O ring. Put the clip back on as the clutch line will just push back in and clip it's self when seated.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top