Trapping too low?

[ChrisMustang]

Thank you for the reply. Almost full tank of gas.

If I add a BAP, do I have to have the car tuned?

I searched around for a BAP, can you only buy directly from KB? And anyone know how much it cost?

 

[mdrc347]

How much gas was in the tank? Yes .4999 is pegged.

My car had a leaky PPRV so when I put an early apten port and 2.76" pulley on it the AF would swing above 12:1 above 5k rpm and would get up to 13:1 lean above 6krpm.

A simple boost a pump took care of the lean issue until I dropped the pan to install GT pumps several years later.

It even dynod 545rwhp on a small 50 shot with those stock pumps, 60lbs injectors, and the BAP.

Yes, you are maxed out on fuel. Problem is that you shouldn't be, so something is wrong with the car. You need to do what he says above and check your PPRV. After a car is pullied, it is fairly common to leak. Apparently, they don't like the extra boost. The PPRV is mounted on the fuel rail with a vacuum hose and electrical connector going to it. Similar to a fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum hose off after you have been driving it, and see if you see any signs of gas. It should be bone dry. If you smell gas in the hose or see any signs of gas then it is leaking and needs to be replaced. Also, make sure that you get the restrictor disc that will stop it from happening again. I think Kenne Bell makes it, but most aftermarket vendors would have it. It's a cheap disc that goes in ahead of the PPRV to prevent boost pressure from spiking and blowing it out.

Other than that, you need to make sure that you have no codes that would be causing the car to command to much fuel. What is happening is that you are running to out of fuel on the big end of the track. Your 1/8 mile trap is right on par. In a nutshell, the car should not be commanding .4999 at all. Your fuel system SHOULD be fine. So, you need to find out why it is commanding so much. The PPRV leaking would be my best guess. Other than that, you could check to see if you have a weak pump by making sure your fuel pressure is not dropping at the big end of the track. You should also check your MAF and oxygen sensors to make sure they are sending the right information to the PCM.

 

[mdrc347]

Thank you for the reply. Almost full tank of gas.

If I add a BAP, do I have to have the car tuned?

I searched around for a BAP, can you only buy directly from KB? And anyone know how much it cost?

My guess is with a BAP, you will still have the same problem. Your car should not need one. Minus the fact that I don't believe in them anyway.

 

[ChrisMustang]

I googled pprv and it shows it part of the fuel hat... is there another one on the engine?

 

[Swervedriver]

Yes PPRV is in the gas tank. FRPS is on the fuel rail.

I think lethal sells baps. As I said, it worked on my car for several years at 500+rwhp.

 

[mdrc347]

I googled pprv and it shows it part of the fuel hat... is there another one on the engine?

Sorry I used the wrong abbreviation for the part that I was describing. FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) is what I was describing. Check that by pulling the hose. I had an issue with it right after putting my pullies on. The PPRV could also be the problem. You could tell if it were a problem by checking your fuel pressure like I described in the earlier post. But the best thing to do is to delete it.

 

[ChrisMustang]

So sum up delete the PPRV and check the FRPS for problems the PPRV is causing?

 

[mdrc347]

So I need to check the FRPS for fuel is what mdrc was saying?

Yes. That is what I meant to say.

 

[ChrisMustang]

I drove the car and gave it plenty of gas, pulled the line of the FRPS, its completely dry, no sign of gas visual or by smell.

I should pull the PPRV out but dont have time today.

Only code being thrown is P0405, somthing to do with the EGR.

 

[Swervedriver]

pulling the PPRV requires dropping the gas tank and is a total pita.

if there are any codes you shouldn't beat on it. I don't know if it's published which codes will throw the car into limp mode when WOT. I do know that most tunes are not setup to support much power when in limp mode. The LWFM table is usually setup with a 1.4x max load which will make you lean with way too much timing.

I know that when a 600rwhp car does that it's like hitting a huge stump in the road!

 

[mdrc347]

I drove the car and gave it plenty of gas, pulled the line of the FRPS, its completely dry, no sign of gas visual or by smell.

I should pull the PPRV out but dont have time today.

Only code being thrown is P0405, somthing to do with the EGR.

Why do you still have EGR codes active? Or, for that matter, why do you still have EGR at all? If the EGR happened to be stuck open, it could cause your car to run poorly. This code indicates that your EGR is either stuck, the hoses to it are bad or unhooked, or the DPFE sensor is failed. You need to have them shut off. Get an EGR delete kit, and have the codes tuned out. Make sure they don't just stop the light from coming on, but actually stop the codes from being set altogether.

You can't do any damage with an EGR code. It is emissions BS. I believe that you also need a PPRV delete kit to delete the PPRV, but I'm not sure. Mine got deleted when I upgraded my fuel hat and pumps, so you will have to check on that.

 

[Swervedriver]

You can't do any damage with an EGR code. It is emissions BS.

Fuel tank evap is also "emissions BS" but absolutely will throw you into limp mode like I described above.

I had 2 codes. EGR and EVAP. One of them caused the car to go limp and switch from the well setup tables: 17° timing and an AF of 11.8:1, to the LWFM table which was still as it came from the factory. Load dropped from 1.999 to 1.4, timing jumped up to 26°, AF jumped up above 15:1. Car felt like it hit a stump in the road.

So as a rule of thumb, anytime anyone mentions having a code I reply with "Stop beating on the car" and I describe why. I have yet to see a published list of which codes throw the car limp and which don't so err on the side of caution.

 

[ChrisMustang]

My car runs perfect, I had no idea that anything was wrong with it until going to the track and thinking it should be faster and then data logging. I honestly cant feel anything weird driving it or running it to redline.

I bought the car 2 years ago with 30400 miles on it, I added mods around 33-34k miles and it currently has 35600 miles. It was a babied stock car for its first 8 years of its life.

 

[mdrc347]

Fuel tank evap is also "emissions BS" but absolutely will throw you into limp mode like I described above.

I had 2 codes. EGR and EVAP. One of them caused the car to go limp and switch from the well setup tables: 17° timing and an AF of 11.8:1, to the LWFM table which was still as it came from the factory. Load dropped from 1.999 to 1.4, timing jumped up to 26°, AF jumped up above 15:1. Car felt like it hit a stump in the road.

So as a rule of thumb, anytime anyone mentions having a code I reply with "Stop beating on the car" and I describe why. I have yet to see a published list of which codes throw the car limp and which don't so err on the side of caution.

I agree with you, but by his account here, I don't think that is what is going on. He should still get rid of the emissions BS asap just because it is needed. Also, I have never thought dropping the tank is a PITA. I have had mine out a few times. If I wait until it is almost empy on fuel, I can have the tank out in 30-45 minutes. This is in a shop with a hoist, and a good selection of tools.