Transmission Upgrades?

[Perfect Stranger]

I have a 2000 Ford Lightning I bought in Nov 2015, I am starting on mechanical upgrades for the truck now. Just finished the suspension and brakes. Powerstop and Bilsteins, it really needed it. Overhauling the rear end next with a 4.11 Richmond gear and Detroit Locker Tru Track differential. Starting to do research on tranny upgrades to improve the durability and shifting. I will be shooting for 550 to 600 HP on the motor when I start on it. But for now, I'm working back to front. I have the SCT X4 tuner and have put the 93 octane tune on it. No dyno run yet. From what I can tell, the truck is stock, aside from a K&N filter and aftermarket exhaust ( I think ). Welcome any advise or direction. Thanks!

 

[4a7191a]

Torque converter and punisher valve body if it still shifts fine right now.
I've got a friend running 11.001 in the quarter mile with that.
I'm making 420rwhp , for 6+ years now , stock converter and a punisher valve body.
At best maybe a band kit if getting a rebuild. IMO

 

[Dusten]

I have a 2000 Ford Lightning I bought in Nov 2015, I am starting on mechanical upgrades for the truck now. Just finished the suspension and brakes. Powerstop and Bilsteins, it really needed it. Overhauling the rear end next with a 4.11 Richmond gear and Detroit Locker Tru Track differential. Starting to do research on tranny upgrades to improve the durability and shifting. I will be shooting for 550 to 600 HP on the motor when I start on it. But for now, I'm working back to front. I have the SCT X4 tuner and have put the 93 octane tune on it. No dyno run yet. From what I can tell, the truck is stock, aside from a K&N filter and aftermarket exhaust ( I think ). Welcome any advise or direction. Thanks!

First, if you're going to make that much power, do not swap gears. As it is, these trucks make monster torque and don't need more gear to get moving. With 4.10's, at redline on a typical built motor you're going to only be at 122mph. I make 530ish rwhp and trap 120 in the quarter mile on pump gas @ 4700lbs race weight. 2mph isn't much to gain. Stick with the 3.73s, they'll allow you to hit 135mph at 6000 rpm.

As stated, a valve body is a must upgrade. They make a world of difference in the truck. If you plan to race the truck much a simple upgrade to circle D's 12" converter helps a ton. Its a 2400rpm stall. If you want a little more pop, the 11" converter will stall around 2800 rpm.

 

[Perfect Stranger]

Torque converter and punisher valve body if it still shifts fine right now.
I've got a friend running 11.001 in the quarter mile with that.
I'm making 420rwhp , for 6+ years now , stock converter and a punisher valve body.
At best maybe a band kit if getting a rebuild. IMO

Not planning on a total rebuild, tranny is a Jasper with less than 3000 miles on it. Seems to be shifting just fine. Been having trouble locating a punisher valve body. I saw lightninglarry's recommendation about the Factory Tech valve body and found one online. I'm not planning on racing at the track every weekend, so I will probably pass on a stall converter. Most of the time, will be on the street. Maybe an occasional pass for fun. On the HP end, I'm shooting for 550 at the flywheel. Any ideas where I could locate a punisher? That seems to be the preferred direction from my research so far. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Perfect Stranger]

First, if you're going to make that much power, do not swap gears. As it is, these trucks make monster torque and don't need more gear to get moving. With 4.10's, at redline on a typical built motor you're going to only be at 122mph. I make 530ish rwhp and trap 120 in the quarter mile on pump gas @ 4700lbs race weight. 2mph isn't much to gain. Stick with the 3.73s, they'll allow you to hit 135mph at 6000 rpm.

As stated, a valve body is a must upgrade. They make a world of difference in the truck. If you plan to race the truck much a simple upgrade to circle D's 12" converter helps a ton. Its a 2400rpm stall. If you want a little more pop, the 11" converter will stall around 2800 rpm.

The 2000 Lightning has 3.55s, if I had the 3.73s, I probably wouldn't swap it out. Not planning on a full time racer, and my 550hp goal is at the flywheel and take what I get at the rear wheels. I've see both the Punisher valve body and the Factory Tech one. I'm having trouble locating the Punisher. Any ideas where I might locate one? I've found the Factory Tech online. I know the tranny is a pretty weak link in this truck. That's why I'm going back to front. I know the previous owner beat on it pretty good. The pinion seal was the first thing I replaced along with the Jasper tranny that's in it when I purchased the truck. And was not very well maintained. So I want ensure the reliability/durability before I start on any hp gains. Probably for go the stall converter cause were gonna be on the street 98% of the time. Maybe an occasional pass at the track. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[4a7191a]

550 at the flywheel , that's nothing
Valve body, stock gears unless you really are itching for 373's. Not much difference imo from 355's.
Get a good roller dyno tune. Nothing emailed, 4lb lower , and full exhaust. My set up made 430 rwhp backed the timing off and settled for 420rwhp for DD reasons which is right around the 500 range at the fly. Honestly any more I'd want a built bottom end for insurance reasons to avoid that vented block club.

 

[Dusten]

The 2000 Lightning has 3.55s, if I had the 3.73s, I probably wouldn't swap it out. Not planning on a full time racer, and my 550hp goal is at the flywheel and take what I get at the rear wheels. I've see both the Punisher valve body and the Factory Tech one. I'm having trouble locating the Punisher. Any ideas where I might locate one? I've found the Factory Tech online. I know the tranny is a pretty weak link in this truck. That's why I'm going back to front. I know the previous owner beat on it pretty good. The pinion seal was the first thing I replaced along with the Jasper tranny that's in it when I purchased the truck. And was not very well maintained. So I want ensure the reliability/durability before I start on any hp gains. Probably for go the stall converter cause were gonna be on the street 98% of the time. Maybe an occasional pass at the track. Thanks for the feedback!

I still stand by my original statement. 4.10's are a waste. The gains are not there for the limitations they create. You're going to spend 500-1000 on a mod that limits you, and may create issues with traction, when these trucks do not have a problem creating low end torque.
You can buy the punisher here: https://woodbinemotorsportssales.squarespace.com/99-04-lightning/dg8iczdj3o90g5z38kp5qk5rs3wzdd

The tranny is not a weak link. Many people run deep into the tens with nothing more than a converter and valve body. Even on the street you won't notice a stall converter. Other than the initial take off, its seamless. Once the converter locks up, around 35-40mph, a stall converter acts just like stock. I daily drove one in a very mild lightning, and I have one in my built truck now.

550 at the flywheel , that's nothing
Valve body, stock gears unless you really are itching for 373's. Not much difference imo from 355's.
Get a good roller dyno tune. Nothing emailed, 4lb lower , and full exhaust. My set up made 430 rwhp backed the timing off and settled for 420rwhp for DD reasons which is right around the 500 range at the fly. Honestly any more I'd want a built bottom end for insurance reasons to avoid that vented block club.

Nothing wrong with email tuning. I have had lightnings for almost 12 years now and not once has my truck been on a dyno for tuning purposes.
Current truck runs 11.40s, makes almost 540hp, does this all on pump gas, low timing and mild boost, at full weight. Oh, and its email tuned.

The issue most people have with email tuning is two fold. Either they try and get a truck tuned that has mechanical issues, which is not the fault of the tuner. Or they don't lack a basic knowledge of their truck, and send shitty datalogs and don't do what the tuner asks.

 

[4a7191a]

If I had a wideband I'd be ok with an email tune.
That's just me though.

Like data logging my evo with the wideband. got to see everything and where there was room for improvement.

 

[Dusten]

If I had a wideband I'd be ok with an email tune.
That's just me though.

Like data logging my evo with the wideband. got to see everything and where there was room for improvement.

Most of the reputable email tuners won't tune a truck without a wideband anymore.

 

[4a7191a]

Good. Back in the day I saw those guys doing that and not using widebands.
I understand the whole deal of them though. My tuner had my truck at 430 in two runs. Then backed timing off a tad. He had tuned so many of them he knew where it needed to be.

 

[Dusten]

but see, that can be guess work. with my email tuning, we made pulls and actually read the plugs to ensure that the timing was correct. I'd go to make a data log, swap plugs, make a pull, shut the truck down, pull the plugs, install new ones and send my tuner the logs and pictures of the plugs. We went back and forth on this for a week getting the timing just right. This was after the AFR's were dialed in. We then went to drivability. so where you made a few quick pulls and the tuner said good to go, mine has spent months tuning. Street drivability, afrs, timing, reviewing datalogs from the track to ensure shift points, launch, everything.

 

[4a7191a]

That's old school, and yeah I see your point.
Used to do my DSM's that way when tuning with a sAFC . That was a nightmare compared to dsm link. I wish we had something like that for Ford's for a decent price.

 

[Perfect Stranger]

I still stand by my original statement. 4.10's are a waste. The gains are not there for the limitations they create. You're going to spend 500-1000 on a mod that limits you, and may create issues with traction, when these trucks do not have a problem creating low end torque.
You can buy the punisher here: https://woodbinemotorsportssales.squarespace.com/99-04-lightning/dg8iczdj3o90g5z38kp5qk5rs3wzdd

The tranny is not a weak link. Many people run deep into the tens with nothing more than a converter and valve body. Even on the street you won't notice a stall converter. Other than the initial take off, its seamless. Once the converter locks up, around 35-40mph, a stall converter acts just like stock. I daily drove one in a very mild lightning, and I have one in my built truck now.



Nothing wrong with email tuning. I have had lightnings for almost 12 years now and not once has my truck been on a dyno for tuning purposes.
Current truck runs 11.40s, makes almost 540hp, does this all on pump gas, low timing and mild boost, at full weight. Oh, and its email tuned.

The issue most people have with email tuning is two fold. Either they try and get a truck tuned that has mechanical issues, which is not the fault of the tuner. Or they don't lack a basic knowledge of their truck, and send shitty datalogs and don't do what the tuner asks.

Thanks for the hookup with Woodbine, I checked them out and will be purchasing one shortly. I spoke with JDM about the tuning when I bought my truck. I personally don't have an issue with email tuning and agree, if you don't give them the right info, your screwed. Thanks again for the input.

 

[Perfect Stranger]

550 at the flywheel , that's nothing
Valve body, stock gears unless you really are itching for 373's. Not much difference imo from 355's.
Get a good roller dyno tune. Nothing emailed, 4lb lower , and full exhaust. My set up made 430 rwhp backed the timing off and settled for 420rwhp for DD reasons which is right around the 500 range at the fly. Honestly any more I'd want a built bottom end for insurance reasons to avoid that vented block club.

Before I really start adding any boost/hp in the engine compartment, I will be upgrading the bottom end. Like I said though, I'm working front to back. I did find both the Punisher and Factory Tech valve bodies. That along with the deep pan are next on my to do list. And each improvement is a little victory in my book. I'm going to run the canned 93 octane tune at least until I get new exhaust. The vehicle has 119,000 on it. And all the drive train components need to be looked over well before I start really punishing it. My goal is to get the truck looking and running great with some added HP. Basically, a nice street machine. Thanks for the input

 

[Dusten]

I did the same thing. Detroit tru Trac, then built trans(01 has a bad design, I blew it up), then built motor with a stock blower, then a Kenne bell

 

[Blainer]

First, if you're going to make that much power, do not swap gears. As it is, these trucks make monster torque and don't need more gear to get moving. With 4.10's, at redline on a typical built motor you're going to only be at 122mph. I make 530ish rwhp and trap 120 in the quarter mile on pump gas @ 4700lbs race weight. 2mph isn't much to gain. Stick with the 3.73s, they'll allow you to hit 135mph at 6000 rpm.

As stated, a valve body is a must upgrade. They make a world of difference in the truck. If you plan to race the truck much a simple upgrade to circle D's 12" converter helps a ton. Its a 2400rpm stall. If you want a little more pop, the 11" converter will stall around 2800 rpm.

Is that the $650 and $750 dollar Circle D, Torque Converters?

 

[SVT-BansheeMan]

Keep the stock gears.

 

[Dusten]

Is that the $650 and $750 dollar Circle D, Torque Converters?

Yes.