I have noticed since washing my 93 that there are quite a few water spots after I'm finished waxing. I have really hard water in my area, but bought a water filter for my hose, which helps a lot. I usually dry my car outside, which could be my problem, so I tried drying it in the garage this time, and did notice an improvement, but there are still some spots. So I went to Auto Zone, and the guy there recommended that I buy an electric buffer, however I am hesitant to go that route beacuse I have heard that when buffing it is possible to cause paint damage and to have permanent swirl marks. I was curious what you guys thought and if you have any tricks to get water spots out before I go the buffing route. Thanks!
To Buff Or Not To Buff
- Thread starter brian3724
- Start date
If you have never done it don't do it. If you know anyone with a buffer see if they will help you do it, it's not too hard but good to know what's going on. I use foam pads only and take my time, use plenty of compound ( made for clear coats) and do it in the shade. Same with washing your car, only do it in the shade when cooler.
Definately leave the first time to a professional, you might even need a gentle wet sanding of the clear.
Pay someone to do it and get a good coat of wax on it, then you can take it from there as needed.
Pay someone to do it and get a good coat of wax on it, then you can take it from there as needed.
Take it to a detail shop and see what they can do? Do you drive your car in the rain? if not go get some spray on Waterless car wash made by Griots so you dont have to use the water. You spray it on then wipe it off with a Microfiber towel. Good Luck!!
With the radom orbital buffers you see in most stores, you'll have a hard time of damaging the paint with them. The ones you have to watch out for are the one the detail shops use. You can burn the paint or at the very least, swirl the living shit out of it.
The water here in Missoui is hard as hell too. You have to be quick on the drying process and get the water before it evaporates, or worse, when the sun hits it. In a lot of cases, simply waxing the car will remove the hard water stains. Most waxes have solvents in them and that solvent will break up the water spot. You could also try a clay bar. I've never used one buy most guys swear by them......I'll probaby invest in one for the black car.
Unless the car is covered in hard water stains or swirls, I'd just try some small detail work that I mentioned above.
The water here in Missoui is hard as hell too. You have to be quick on the drying process and get the water before it evaporates, or worse, when the sun hits it. In a lot of cases, simply waxing the car will remove the hard water stains. Most waxes have solvents in them and that solvent will break up the water spot. You could also try a clay bar. I've never used one buy most guys swear by them......I'll probaby invest in one for the black car.
Unless the car is covered in hard water stains or swirls, I'd just try some small detail work that I mentioned above.
If at all possible, wash the car in the shade. If that's not possible, keep the entire car wet at all times. When you do finally get it all cleaned, get it inside and dry it off. Also, NEVER wax the car outside in the sun.
And if the car is going only going to be driven in nice weather a few times a year, invest in a good cover and don't do a complete wash every time you take it out. I use a California duster very gently on mine, and use a detailer spray to keep it clean. Every time you hand wash a car, you risk light scatches/swirls from unseen dirt on the paint or in the wash cloth. It's a fine line and you have to be careful.
And if the car is going only going to be driven in nice weather a few times a year, invest in a good cover and don't do a complete wash every time you take it out. I use a California duster very gently on mine, and use a detailer spray to keep it clean. Every time you hand wash a car, you risk light scatches/swirls from unseen dirt on the paint or in the wash cloth. It's a fine line and you have to be careful.
I like using the mist and wipe Meguires for spot clean up and the california duster for just the dust also!! I'm with the other guys try the detail first (like the clay bar and wax) if not pay a good body shop to buff the car it will make a great difference.
No offense intended, but considering how OCD you seem (i.e the rear Cobra badge), I would highly recommend you don't try buffing it yourself. Burning through the paint isn't really that easy to do, but making swirl/buff marks is. If that Cobra badge bothered you, I hate to see what a buff mark does! 
If the car needs an exterior refresh, find a recommended local detailer. Find the guy who takes care of all the local exotic sports cars and he'd probably be a good one to try. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for the service, however. I would not trust any place that offers a $99 detail or any place that primarily does dealer make-readys.
Good Luck!
If the car needs an exterior refresh, find a recommended local detailer. Find the guy who takes care of all the local exotic sports cars and he'd probably be a good one to try. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for the service, however. I would not trust any place that offers a $99 detail or any place that primarily does dealer make-readys.
Good Luck!
Have you tried to Clay bar it?
another helpful hint is to use distilled vinegar(the clear stuff) on your chamoise as you dry. this will usually remove most hard water stains and then a good wax to seal it up.
Ouch, that one hurt. Sorry if I sound OCD and all, but this is my first 93, and I just wanted to make sure some things are as they should be. I'll try to keep the redundant questions to a minimum, but I have gotten some great feedback.No offense intended, but considering how OCD you seem (i.e the rear Cobra badge), I would highly recommend you don't try buffing it yourself. Burning through the paint isn't really that easy to do, but making swirl/buff marks is. If that Cobra badge bothered you, I hate to see what a buff mark does!
If the car needs an exterior refresh, find a recommended local detailer. Find the guy who takes care of all the local exotic sports cars and he'd probably be a good one to try. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for the service, however. I would not trust any place that offers a $99 detail or any place that primarily does dealer make-readys.
Good Luck!
here's my 2 cents.
The buffers they sell at walmart/autozone/etc. suck so don't get one of those.
READ on some good detailing sites like autopia.org
Then here's what I would do..
wash the car
clay the car
use a porter cable or similar buffer to polish the paint (refer to autopia for choices in polish brand)
Wax or seal the paint
Be real careful not to get the spots again.
The buffers they sell at walmart/autozone/etc. suck so don't get one of those.
READ on some good detailing sites like autopia.org
Then here's what I would do..
wash the car
clay the car
use a porter cable or similar buffer to polish the paint (refer to autopia for choices in polish brand)
Wax or seal the paint
Be real careful not to get the spots again.
My two cents - leave the buffing to the professionals. You can do clay bar (highly recommend btw). Then use a good wax on top, either hand applied or random orbital applied.
Do not try to do a real polish and buff by machine/wheel unless you know what you are doing. Never do it on your pride and joy for your first time. You will be sorry if you do.
A random orbital such as from wal mart is pretty safe and hard to mess up. A wheel buffer from a parts store can easily burn through your paint on a corner and then you are screwed.
Do not try to do a real polish and buff by machine/wheel unless you know what you are doing. Never do it on your pride and joy for your first time. You will be sorry if you do.
A random orbital such as from wal mart is pretty safe and hard to mess up. A wheel buffer from a parts store can easily burn through your paint on a corner and then you are screwed.
When I said wheel I meant the rotary type. Random orbital is what he needs to shoot for.
I'm just giving you a hard time - no worries. Ask as much as you'd like.
Get yourself a REAL orbital buffer. I bought a used G.E.M. buffer on ebay for like $100. One of the best investments I ever made ( non of the Wal-Mart, Auto Zone crap ). They weigh about 15 lbs. and use a real motor. They mimic what your hand does, and are not likely to damage you paint. High Speed buffers (the ones that spends like a drill) are the ones that usually burns your paint, even in the so-called professional hands. The finish you get from a 'real' orbital buffer compared to what you can accomplish by hand is darn near like night and day.
The random orbital buffers are only good for applying and taking wax/cleaners off. They simply don't have the power or RPM to fix imperfections in paint. That's why you'll never see one in a detail shop. They only use one buffer, with an assortment of different heads and whatnot.
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