Tire shoulder wear

[fasvtcontour00]

I've got a real problem with tire shoulder wear on my front tires. This is the second set of tires that have worn on the outside shoulder much quicker than the rest of the tire print. They werent exactly cheap sets of tires either (BFG KDWS and BFG KDW). I first thought ball joints would cure the problem, which I replaced before I bought the KDW's. This was not the case, I know hard cornering will cause this, and I do drive the car pretty hard but not road course racing or anything. Any ideas on what is causing my problem. My car is on Eibach prokit springs with stock shocks and struts which need to be replaced. I also feel that the steering stabilizer needs to be replaced because I can hear a slight popping sound at low speed turning. Would these be causing my problem or something else? Thanks for any CONSTRUCTIVE input.

 

[351inside]

get some cc plates, and get your car aligned

 

[nicolae88]

Alright I'll ask the two most obvious questions:

Do you check your tire pressures once a month or so? Running underinflated could cause that wear. I had a set of yokohamas that were smoked on the outside shoulders because I had them 15lbs underinflated for 10k miles. I learned after that one!

And of course, is the car's alignment in spec completely?

 

[Toasty]

get some cc plates, and get your car aligned

What he said. This is EXACTLY what happened to me after 5 months of driving with FRPP B Springs and Tokico HP's with no supporting mods. Ruined a front set of tires - thankfully they were cheapo Kumho's at the time.

I rebuilt the entire front suspension at the beginning of last summer, adding 03 a-arms, bumpsteer kit, cc plates and a new steering rag joint to go with the B springs and the Tokico HP's. I added some 18x9.5 Y2K R's and some nice KDW-2's to round out the setup.

Wow, the car feels and rides like new. One full season on the setup and I had a buddy at a tire shop measure my tread depth with a treadwear gauge and the wear is now even across the fronts.

I know I have stated this front suspension setup of mods in a number of other threads, but I thinks its worth reinforcing that our cars are 10 years old now and the OEM parts are probably getting worn/deteriorated. If you want it to ride and handle well AND last AND not ruin tires, its probably a good time to do a complete front suspension refresh.

 

[fasvtcontour00]

I've had it aligned and it feels straight with the steering wheel, but I guess the 100k miles have taken a toll on the struts and other counterparts. I suppose I'll save some money for some CC plates, i've got a good lead on a full set of new Tokico HP's for 250 bucks so I think I'm gonna jump on that. I'd also like a to trade my pro kit springs for some H&R super sports. I've already replace the ball joints and tie rod ends with TRW. What is this steering rag joint you speak of? Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Lowering issues will wear the inside.
Under inflation will wear both inside and outside.

You have either a whole lot of camber or some toe in.

I'd bet on Toe in.


EDIT: did you have it aligned after the tie rod end change?

 

[fasvtcontour00]

Yes, aligned after tie rod end change. I keep my tires inflated at a minimum of 35 psi, no more than 40 psi. checked frequently. There is no visible positive camber, maybe a tad bit of negative camber if any. Most of the wear is on the outside shoulder, but some on the inside as well. You may be right on the toe in though, so how easy is it to align with CC plates? Seems like it would be hard to get both sides the same, I don't know much about them as I've never owned a set.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Not hard for the alignment tech.

Some have not needed them for the pro-kit and for sure if they were able to get it in spec the first time. However, they are not a bad investment. I'd get them from what you are saying.

The slight inner wear is from the negitive camber the outer wear is from toe in.

 

[fasvtcontour00]

The camber and the toe in are not from any specific suspension part though right? Just out of spec.

 

[xneric]

If the problem is just toe, the caster/camber plates won't help at all. Toe is adjusted with the tie rods.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

The camber and the toe in are not from any specific suspension part though right? Just out of spec.

As parts wear the the settings change,

Camber will be from the top of the struts, that is where C/C plates come in.

Toe is probably from tie rod wear. Most cases it can be reset. If the parts have slack then they will want to change them.

Do not mention wear before hand or they will nail you, He should let you know if he can't get it in spec from wear and make him show you the slack.
I always did. Never screwed anyone on alignment but have seen others do it big time.

 

[fasvtcontour00]

As parts wear the the settings change,

Camber will be from the top of the struts, that is where C/C plates come in.

Toe is probably from tie rod wear. Most cases it can be reset. If the parts have slack then they will want to change them.

Do not mention wear before hand or they will nail you, He should let you know if he can't get it in spec from wear and make him show you the slack.
I always did. Never screwed anyone on alignment but have seen others do it big time.

Are you saying I should take it to a shop to get it aligned again and see if they really get it into spec this time? The shop I took it to last time just adjusted the tie rods and that was it. Is a computerized alignment necessary for toe in? I don't think it would. A computerized alignment seems like just a way for a shop to get more money out of you IMO. If the car needs new tie rods, how can I check for that. Like I said before, I've already replaced the tie rod ends with quality parts.

 

[sancho96]

for the tie rods just grab the outer ones and see if it moves in and out. like lots of looseness or slack. if it does its bad. computerized alignment is usually better. what my friend did once was measure from the front of the tire to the front of the other tire and see how much of a difference it is from back of the tire to back of the other tire and just try and get it about the same. just make sure the alignment guy knows what hes doin cause it can be trickier to align a lowered car.

 

[PSUCOBRA96]

caster camber plates and take it to a good shop so they can use the computer to align it, if you dont get CC before you get new tires your gonna ruin another set within a month as tires set in quickly

 

[98_snake_bite]

The shop I took it to last time just adjusted the tie rods and that was it.

There is your problem! Sounds like a typical "set the toe and let it go" type shop.

As was mentioned before, get the CC plates on and find a new shop that will actually do a REAL alignment.