Tightening rear for leaks = found busted bolt what now?

[dragon40k]

A little background on this.
Over a year ago I broke a half shaft. The dealer fixed this.
This year I noticed a leak under my rear. So I took it to the dealership about 5 or 6 times trying to get this worked out. They had messed some things up and eventually found the cover was cracked probably from a year ago.
The Rear was still leaking just slightly. The leak wasn't even reaching the ground but it would get on the exhaust and I could smell it whenever I stopped. So this morning I deceided I would just tighten the bolts on the rear down to see if that would help at all. I did turn a couple of them no more than half a turn. Not cranking overly hard or anything. The top bolt on the drivers side was the last one I did and it was loose. Turning did nothing.
Heres where it gets good...
This bolt was broke. It was only held in the car by the silicon sealant the dealership used on the rear. One of the mechanics broke it off stuck silicon on it and shoved it into the hole hoping noone would ever notice. You can tell this because the broken part has sealant on it.
Now the Questions
What is the fix for this?
Do I have to take it to an SVT dealership, because I never want to take it back there again.
All input welcome. Thanks all

 

[flyn high again]

You can use an easy out [probably won't be easy ] or drill the bolt out [also not easy plus time consuming]. Drilling will take a while since they are hardened bolts. Try not to mess up the threads. If you do, you will have to re tap them. Get the BilletFlow brace and put it on while you are down there so you don't crack the cover again.

 

[FireRed04Vert]

The moral integrity of some people just amaze me. What did that tech think? That you would never find out he broke the bolt??

You don't say whether or not the car is under warranty. If it is, you can take it back and have it warrantied...but you may have to go to the original shop since they broke the bolt. Don't tell them you were tightening the bolts. Tell them you noticed a leak and the top bolt was protruding a bit and this is what you found. The silicone should be your proof. Otherwise, you will need to pull the pumpkin and remove the broken bolt and possibly helicoil it. Don't be surprised if you find the bolt cross threaded in there. I would guess the tech would strip the threads in the aluminum long before he would break the bolt...so I'm betting it's cross threaded. If you don't have the tools or the expertise to remove it (it's not as easy as it sounds) take it to a machine shop and have them do it for you.

But I would definitely let the service manager know what you found first. That is absolute bull.

 

[dragon40k]

Pretty much my thoughts guys It seems almost impossible to drill it out or get in there with any tools that could do the job. I never thought about the possibility of crossthreading being the reason that it broke. Whatever the solution its going to be a total pain in the ass. Id love to never have to take it back there again and all the people I've talked to have actually been pretty shocked about it.
I think I will get the billetflow brace. I talked to someone who had it and they said you didn't have to drop the rear to get it in so its worth while and will give some peace of mind.

 

[FireRed04Vert]

That's correct...you can get Doug's brace on there without dropping the pumpkin. But you need to drop it to fix the bolt. It's really not that hard to take out...just takes time. You can actually get it out without having to seperate the hubs from the axle. There's enough room to slip the axles out by unbolting the hub assy from the IRS and pulling out. Sounds confusing, but if you look at it, you should see it. I've done it and it works.