Tial mv-r 44mm users what spring combo are you running?

FiveSlow

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Getting ready to bolt this in. Charge pipes are ported, opened up 1/8" +. Just waiting on welding.. I have the chart that shows springs for 8.7 psi then 10.15psi (red/black) I want to run about 10psi max..

Also what size fitting are you using to tap the charge pipe for the wastegate vacuum line. Someone told me their car they were seeing 1.5 psi above a 10 psi spring so that's why I'm asking. I want to run 10 not 11.65 lol that's kinda a difference. Car will be running full time 100 octane. So 10 should be safe.
 

wakebum2507

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sub'd for more info.

I'm using what i believe is a 1/4 ID fitting and hose.

I do see some increased load, post-shifts. see graph.
10275576_2199983449019_4945192528451636263_o.jpg
 

FiveSlow

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So are you running the red spring or black or both? I haven't taken it apart yet but looking at the chart it's says for 10.15 psi red/black. I'm assuming I could use either?
 

StevenStarke

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Are you talking on a blower car on the charge pipe? Or on a turbo car the way they are normally used.
 

FiveSlow

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It's a Paxton Novi blower car. The gate will be mounted on the charge pipes. I have the fitting to tap into the charge pipe and vacuum line, just not sure about the springs to run. I'm running a 15psi pulley but I want to cap it at 10psi with the gate. The chart from tial isn't very informative and I'm not a shop rat so I'm learning stuff as I build the car.. Setting up the gate and my new bov are my next mods to tackle. Any help from those that have done it would be fantastic.
 

FiveSlow

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What if I don't want that much, just 10psi. Lol. Picky but for a $300 part or whatever I paid you would think there was more options. It goes from 8.7 psi to 10.15 psi. Why not 8/9/10/11 ect. I don't get it.
 

Blazer707@TBR

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What if I don't want that much, just 10psi. Lol. Picky but for a $300 part or whatever I paid you would think there was more options. It goes from 8.7 psi to 10.15 psi. Why not 8/9/10/11 ect. I don't get it.
You will be fine with 10.15.
 

FiveSlow

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10.15 will show just under 10 lbs on your gauge. I safely ran that on 93, I ran the 11.6 on corn and saw 11 psi.

Nice did you get a chance to run it with either combo at the track? Is it still running strong? I'm going to be running 100 octane.
 

bam2012@TBR

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Never ran at the track. I hydroplanned and totalled my 12 before it made a single pass at the track. The car had some nice runs in mexico. ;) My 14 will run the wastegate setup as well.
 

StevenStarke

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What if I don't want that much, just 10psi. Lol. Picky but for a $300 part or whatever I paid you would think there was more options. It goes from 8.7 psi to 10.15 psi. Why not 8/9/10/11 ect. I don't get it.

As far as I knew, wastegates were designed to be ran on the exhaust manifolds of turbocharged cars. I mean yea you can use it on charge piping for the same thing in essence, but I don't see how you can really complain about it?

a 10 psi spring means that when there is equal pressure on both the top and bottom of the diaphragm, there is an additional 10 psi keeping it closed. If you run a 15 psi pulley, and put no pressure source on the top of it, the gate would open up at 10 psi. If you ran a 12 psi spring combo, you'd now open up the gate at 12 psi.

As I type this, I think I came up with an idea. If you ran a pressure source to the wastegate, but split it to go to the lower port and the upper port, and put a manual boost controller in line with the upper port AFTER the Tee, in theory, I think yould be able to adjust boost with a controller. I guess it wouldn't have to be manual either, it could be electronic too. I wonder why no one has tried that.


*
Imagine if you had a 15 psi pulley, and you had a 10 psi spring. With no pressure line going to the top of the gate, the gate opens when the rpm gets high enough to make 10 psi and then it bleeds it off. So let's imagine you ran a pressure source to the upper port on the gate. Now you have equal pressure always pushing on both sides of the gate. So it never opens (because you have spring pressure also keeping it closed). If you ran the line to the lower port only, then it would do nothing different than not running one at all. Because you'd still have whatever boost you were running pushing up on the gate. BUT, if you split pressure to the top AND bottom, of equal pressure, and then bled off pressure to the top, I'd think it would increase boost.

So you have a 15 psi pulley. You run a line to the top and bottom of the gate, Tee it and then after the Tee, put a Manual boost controller in line with the upper port. You have a 10 psi spring in the gate. With the MBC all the way turned down (meaning that it does not bleed off any pressure), the gate sees equal pressure to top and bottom, plus spring pressure so the car will make whatever boost the pulley will make. But if we turn the boost controller all the way in, now the upper port doesn't see the pressure from the source. So it stops pushing down on the gate, therefore allowing it to open and decrease boost. So I would think that the boost controller turned all the way in, would bleed off all of the pressure from the source, therefore keeping the gate from ever seeing any pressure on the top. Then once the car made the boost that the spring was, the gate would open. As I type this out, I believe you would also need a 1 way valve facing away from the top port Tee'd into the line between the top port of the gate and the manual boost controller.


Ok I'm tired. But I think this is a good idea for SC'd guys looking to run a small pulley and control boost without having to constantly change springs. Good night!!
 
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FiveSlow

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Bump for more info! Let's keep it rolling, love the idea of the boost controller. Seems like it would work.
 

beefcake

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boost controllers can be done. we don't really mess with them as no real reason to dial it down, tune for what you want!!!
 

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