Thoughts!

[sshfty1]

Good mornin everyone I rarely post but when I do it's lengthy so I recently purchased a used Boss 302 less than 2000 miles I now have 4500 on the car and love it. "EXCEPT" for these below items that I was hoping you all could expell upon.

1. Traction = THERE AIN'T NONE... This thing don't hook up til alomst midway threw the r's in 3rd gear, now I know that's cool and all but I would like to go forward faster not sideways for blocks.

2. The doomed engine tick = Ya I got it too, it seems to go away after the car warms for awhile but still drives me batty. Seems to be between that 1500 and 3000 rpm range, but it looks like thats normal or so some say.

3. OIL CONSUMPTION = WTF where do 6qts of oil go. Please someone tell me if it is o.k to run your car 6qts low? Now I am a mechanic so of course I realize that, that is not O.K. but the dealer seems to think that once we topped the car off and drove away with no problems that all should be fine. In your opinions is this possible?

4. Performance now this isn't my first hot rod so I have some prior cars to compare my seat of the pant's experience with however for those who have had a terminator or shelby etc. does this car feel totally different in the way it pulls almost like its got a high and a low gear in each gear? Like the car comes on slow and lathargic then bang like a gun it goes off?

Other than that great car still think I would love to have my 04 mystic back but thats a story for another day.

Thanks all.:burnout:

 

[Jebadias]

I will answer what I can.

Traction- try adjusting you suspension. Lower numbers make for softer suspension. Also what temperature is it where you are? My car hooks great in the summer on softer settings but higher settings hurt takeoff traction. The stock tires will not hook in cold weather at all.

Tick/oil - I do not have either of these issues so I am not much help here.

Performance. The car builds power at higher rpm so it will feel different from a car with a roots blower (unless you put one on it)

Hope that helps and I am sure someone with experience in you other issues will be by soon

 

[USNjocson]

1. Could be the weather. Just a few months ago I have no issues with traction but not it gets squirrely under WOT

2. Have had no issues here. Is your car a 2012?

3. No issues here either. Be sure to pick up an oil separator. JLT or Bob's are promising.

4. I have had a couple other mustangs prior to my Boss as well. The most recent being an '04 mystichrome as well. As far as performance they are completely different. My terminator (cai, tune, o/r x and bassani cb) felt like a gnarly beast with instant TQ while the Boss is more proper and smooth similar to the pull of a commercial plane at take off. In my terminator, If I had to make a quick lane change I had no issues maneuvering through traffic in any gear because of the quick throttle response. In my Boss I usually have to downshift or be above 4k RPM if I want to get anywhere fast. I definitely miss having a blower and have been tossing around the idea of getting a twin screw rather than going with the CJ intake and supporting mods.

All in all I am confident my cai, tune, longtube, offroad H, muffler delete Boss will outrun a 2.9 pulley, cai, offroad X and catback terminator.

 

[65sohc]

Could you explain this 6 quart oil disappearance a bit more clearly? Over what period of time? It is generally considered acceptable (to the manufacturers) to burn one quart every 1000 miles. Having said that I've had an '06 GT, an '09 GT500, and now my Boss as well as my son's 2010 V6. None of them has every required extra oil between changes. As far as acceleration, do you have the Trackey? I don't but I do have an AED tune and a Steeda CAI and my car feels like a rocket at any RPM and I would imagine a TracKey-equipped car would feel that way, too. With the way these cars are geared it seems like you're always in the powerband, at least when it's been optimized. Re: traction, I'm with you on that one. My car won't hook in 1st or 2nd even when it's 100 degrees outside.

 

[Deranged2013]

Traction will be a problem in the winter but if you really want to hook up on launch, you should plan on upgrading your suspension and getting a set rear DR tires .

No oil consumption or tic here. I changed my oil about 3000 miles ago and I'm still on full. As the others have said, get you an oil separator. If I had lost 6 quarts, I would be very concerned.

As for the power band. The Boss comes alive in the higher rpm range. The higher you get up in the rpms, the harder it pulls. Just don't be afraid to spin it up because the Boss was designed to handle high rpm abuse. Definitely a different animal than the Terminators. Stock for stock, I believe the Boss feels better than the terminator in every category. Comfort, handling, and performance. Never drove a GT500 so I have no idea how it compares.

Congrats on the new Boss and welcome to the Boss world. Hope you get that oil consumption issue squared away.

 

[sshfty1]

2. Have had no issues here. Is your car a 2012?

3. No issues here either. Be sure to pick up an oil separator. JLT or Bob's are promising.

QUOTE]

It's a 12, and what is this oil seperator that you speak of?

 

[sshfty1]

Could you explain this 6 quart oil disappearance a bit more clearly? Over what period of time? It is generally considered acceptable (to the manufacturers) to burn one quart every 1000 miles. Having said that I've had an '06 GT, an '09 GT500, and now my Boss as well as my son's 2010 V6. None of them has every required extra oil between changes. As far as acceleration, do you have the Trackey? I don't but I do have an AED tune and a Steeda CAI and my car feels like a rocket at any RPM and I would imagine a TracKey-equipped car would feel that way, too. With the way these cars are geared it seems like you're always in the powerband, at least when it's been optimized. Re: traction, I'm with you on that one. My car won't hook in 1st or 2nd even when it's 100 degrees outside.

Yes long story short I bought the car used from a local dealer and sadly and "SHAME ON ME" assumed that they car was serviced when it was at the dealership like their advertising had said.

Now it had always had a slight tick from day one, it was hit or miss so not to concerned about it. Then about 2 weeks back the car starts to click pretty hard at start up and under load but again goes away once you get out of the gas, at this point I deceide to get it to the dealer for the ac belt/cover deal and that comes back as good. But the problem persists so I take it back a week later so a ford engineer can look at it, and he says check the oil. Guess what 6qts low, now before you go after me remember I just bought the car and had assumed the oil was changed also the hard ticking just started that week and lastly I have owned many new cars and have "NEVER" not 1 go threw that amount of oil before. So they topped it off and the ticking is gone except for a little tick between like 1500 and 3000 rpm but goes away once warmed up.

Seems to run fine all things considered, not really sure if i did anything internal and really don't know how to tell.

 

[USNjocson]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...aration-anxiety-jlt-oil-separator-review.html

Not saying this is where your 6 quarts of oil is going but it's proven that some oil gets in there. This will prevent that at a low cost while maintaining the factory look. I personally have the Peterson oil can that can be found on the Boss 302S/R but will be getting a JLT when emission testing comes around.

 

[65sohc]

The oil catch can, JLT and other brands, really has nothing to do with oil consumption per se. Whatever oil accumulates in the reservoir would otherwise just coat the inlet tract and/or be burned during combustion. By emptying the reservoir you're just disposing of the oil by different means. In any case the quantity is slight, meaning ounces, not quarts.

 

[65sohc]

In the final analysis you really have no way of knowing what went on with your car prior to your buying it. All you can do is keep an eye on it from this point on. The good thing is it's under warranty. If the oil continues to "disappear" Ford will give you a new engine.

 

[DallasBoss]

If you were 6 quarts low, you would have had only 2 1/2 quarts in it. If that's the case, I would be extremely concerned about damage done from oil starvation. I'm not sure how low the level can go before starvation occurs, but I would think 6 quarts low would cause major problems. Ford can do a relative compression test to check for equal cylinder compression. If the relative compression is off, this could indicate potential damage.

 

[RocketSurgeon]

If you were seriously 6 quarts low that tick is your rockers slapping around unlubed... not good.

My car has none of the issues other than traction and that is only because of the cold temperatures.

 

[sshfty1]

OK so here is where im at, I mentioned that I took it to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to drive the car and see how it goes.. I have done that and other than that slight 1500 to 3000 tick which has been there since the day that I bought it used everything else appears to be fine. So what do you all think that I could do or should do with the car considering it shows no symptoms. Thanks

 

[65sohc]

Like I said above, pretty much all you can do is watch from this point on. And, most importantly, RELAX. You have a lot of warranty remaining, plus you already have a paper trail started just in case.

 

[65sohc]

This is totally off topic but, anyway, maybe 20 years ago I attended a demo at a local mechanic shop. It was for an oil additive, Tribotech. Using an Infiniti as the guinea pig I saw them drain the oil from the crankcase and the filter and then proceed to give rides to everyone in the audience, including me. I know the mechanic who owns the shop so I know he's not a crook, plus I watched the oil drain out. Anyway we take off from his shop, foot to the floor, no oil in the sump, and it doesn't miss a beat.

 

[sshfty1]

Like I said above, pretty much all you can do is watch from this point on. And, most importantly, RELAX. You have a lot of warranty remaining, plus you already have a paper trail started just in case.

Good point thank you for your replies they are appreciated. I only wonder what I should be looking for going forward

 

[nosympathy]

I vote get the crappy MC 5W50 garbage out of the car and put in a good 10W-30 or 10W40 oil.

The Boss I picked up with about 2700 miles on it about a month ago, ticked a little(was on the stock 5W50 since it came off the lot...so for more than a year) and the moment I swapped in Amsoil 10W-40 is quiet as can be. Ticking wise that is.

Also for traction, agree with some of the others. Car was hooking really well when it was warm out, now that it is cold doesn't hook very well. Wheel hop is twice as bad. Too the point I might just put my LCA and UCA car on now, even though I was gonna wait. Changing the shocks too a softer setting should help some, settings 1-5, 1 being the softest. Anything to make the hit on the tires not as hard.

Personally I run breathers instead of the JLT, it is an OK solution but still allows oil into the intake.

as for performance, a shelby or cobra with a roots style blower is going to give you an almost instant torque hit. The Boss isn't setup that way. Mine still jumps off the line pretty damn good, but it is nothing like the instant torque feeling.

The Boss really shines from mid to high 6K RPMs and up. Though mine pulls pretty damn hard from 4K onward.

 

[guarnibl]

Isn't there a slight tick in certain RPM range from the forged pistons? My previous car had the same tick after building the motor, and this one has the same thing -- in exactly the range he's mentioned. I don't notice it anymore because my exhaust is too loud, but before I put the exhaust on I noticed it.

And performance wise -- this motor is designed to pull high RPM -- fairly different top end than the regular GT.

My motor doesn't burn any oil. I wasn't even a half quart low after changing it after 3k miles last time. Oil was shitty though But I beat on mine. Also, the MC 5W50 is fine unless you're in some crazy climate.

Shifter kind of sucks, that's really my only complaint on the Boss. I'll eventually throw the Ford Racing one in there.

 

[nosympathy]

Isn't there a slight tick in certain RPM range from the forged pistons? My previous car had the same tick after building the motor, and this one has the same thing -- in exactly the range he's mentioned. I don't notice it anymore because my exhaust is too loud, but before I put the exhaust on I noticed it.

And performance wise -- this motor is designed to pull high RPM -- fairly different top end than the regular GT.

My motor doesn't burn any oil. I wasn't even a half quart low after changing it after 3k miles last time. Oil was shitty though But I beat on mine. Also, the MC 5W50 is fine unless you're in some crazy climate.

Shifter kind of sucks, that's really my only complaint on the Boss. I'll eventually throw the Ford Racing one in there.

The MC 5W50 shears something awful. If you are changing it often (3K miles or less) you are probably fine, but it is awful. A true synthetic that can go 8-10K miles makes far more sense.

Also, I would skip the ford racing shifter by Barton and do an MGW. Is cheaper and 10X better made. I can attest to this personally.

 

[TXPD]

just remember what the car is designed for. its a road course car. not a drag car