Thoughts/opinions on buying an already modified cobra?

[6spdg37s]

This has been weighing on me as I began searching for the perfect car...

Obviously theres the pros and cons that are obvious -

you get a car with stuff you might eventually do already done along with the negatives was it installed correctly and such ?

example I see on CL for a few weeks now a nice kenne belle terminator with roll cage and stuff... for a good price. yet why has no1 bought it ? is the market soft ? is there something wrong with that particular car?

It seems as if these have to be purchased in cash since it is outside of the typical loan window could that have an effect?

my other consideration is a c5 z06. Just torn between the 2 and this would be my first FI car.

and Im concerned do I buy one with 60k miles and stock or 12k miles and modified, if it was stock I would modify it anyway.

Just confused/thinking out loud ...first hand opinions would be appreciated

thanks guys !

 

[SS KILLR]

I've bought several modified cars. Some I've been happy with, on the other hand some I've completely re-did due to the shoty job. A couple things to find out
1. Who did the work
2. Are they reputable
3. Are there receipts
4. Who did the tuning
5. Is there any on hand data log info

As far as the market. Nah, But with a roll cage people will be more apt to shy away because in some people minds roll cage = rode hard.
This is just my experience and 2 cents do with it what you will. Btw I like my Termi way more then I did my Vette.

 

[6spdg37s]

I've bought several modified cars. Some I've been happy with, on the other hand some I've completely re-did due to the shoty job. A couple things to find out
1. Who did the work
2. Are they reputable
3. Are there receipts
4. Who did the tuning
5. Is there any on hand data log info

As far as the market. Nah, But with a roll cage people will be more apt to shy away because in some people minds roll cage = rode hard.
This is just my experience and 2 cents do with it what you will. Btw I like my Termi way more then I did my Vette.

I re-read the ad on that one and it says 5-speed trans and tubular K member so it sounds like he pulled the motor out and stuff and put a diff trans in as well...

The one for sale on here actually I like , is still for sale local to me , but I am not crazy about the shop that did the work, and I can't make a purchase just yet.

Like I said IM still really torn between the 2 cars and I want to find the perfect one and local.

I found one at a used car dealer for 23k i think with like 66k on the odo. stock as far as i know... I wish they still made these cars lol would make life so much easier !

 

[SS KILLR]

I'll sell mine for 22

 

[6spdg37s]

I'll sell mine for 22

lolol Im gonna make a WTB post on here when I am ready hah but your not local !

 

[SS KILLR]

Haha ok. Transport truck run all over the us.

 

[cornholio]

I think the rules are the same for each car when considering a purchase. The good thing is that if you are purchasing a modified car, you are getting the mods for free (for the most part).

If you buy stock, how much are you looking to modify? What are your horsepower goals?

If you want to be at 500-550 rwhp, then you are looking at a port/pulley car with the other accompanying add ons. You can obtain these goals with the factory fuel system as well. To get these numbers you are looking to spend about $4000 on a stock car.

If the work is documented and reputable then I would not shy away from a car modded to this level. One owner makes it even better, and again, you are basically getting the $4000+- worth of mods for next to nothing.

Now, if you are looking to go above this HP level, then you def need to be a whole lot more scrupulous in your search if you want a modded car with these numbers.

If i were looking, I would look for a "slightly modded" car, in the 25-50k mile range, preferably a one owner who bought the car in his/her mid thirties, and one that I could verify the tuner. If you can verify it is still on the original clutch and drives like a peach, that says a lot about how the car was treated.

I just happen to have the above described car.... 530 rwhp, one owner, bought in my mid thirties, and still a perfect original clutch....

Good Luck

 

[Tractionless1]

At the age of the Cobra's now, no matter what the mods. I'd seriously consider a leak down test. I bought a lightly modded car with 21k on the clock and had to redo/replace some work. For example it had a very rare lower pulley setup on it with a 35mm idler pulley I had zero luck of replicating when it blew. In turn it cost me a new lower pulley system.

 

[RI-SVT]

6spd I think your referring to the one in LI, i was looking into that one myself, there's one in the market from Edison, NJ seems nice check that one out, I will go with a modded one myself, might as well these cars are not cheap get the most for your buck.

 

[cornholio]

It is also a good sign if the mods were done sometime ago. All of my mods were done 5 years ago, and about 8000 miles as well.... which is something I would try and verify before buying.

Even the slightest mods could be done wrong and need fixing. This is certainly the A#1 reason to find a close to stock car as well

 

[6spdg37s]

6spd I think your referring to the one in LI, i was looking into that one myself, there's one in the market from Edison, NJ seems nice check that one out, I will go with a modded one myself, might as well these cars are not cheap get the most for your buck.

yeah I emailed the one in Edison, I need to wait probably another month before I do anything though, Also I dont necessarily wanna settle on a color and the real only color i want is yellow which is probably gonna be impossible to find local so I may have to settle for a very clean one in another color.

It is also a good sign if the mods were done sometime ago. All of my mods were done 5 years ago, and about 8000 miles as well.... which is something I would try and verify before buying.

Even the slightest mods could be done wrong and need fixing. Thus is certainly the A#1 reason to find a close to stock car as well

yeah I agree with both parts of that statement ... definitely could be a stressful process.

I would love to get like 500WHP maybe close to 6. I would eventually wanna do a kenne belle

my z06 was 490whp . guy i sold it to did some diff exhaust work and a re-tune and got it to 514whp

 

[cornholio]

If you are content with the under 600 hp range, then your options do open up a little more. And if you are or would be considering the whipple/KB upgrade, you can always do that on a ported vehicle after you drive for a while and determine it to be a solid car.

Refer to what I said earlier...... one owner, 25-50k miles, verified tuner. Again, a car with those numbers with an original clutch still working fine go miles ahead of others in determining how the car was driven/treated.

 

[zincslowbra]

obviously it can go south, but i lookd for a modified car with the mods i intented to do since it saves you thousands. i got mine with 24.5k and have had it for four years and its a tick under 30k with no problems at all. if i had to do it over i'd look for a TS car or port'd car since they can be had for the relatively same price as a stock/pullied car.

 

[cj428mach]

I bought my car with cai, tune, catback, off road pipe and a 2.93 pulley. So basically the only real mod that could put any extra stress on the engine was the pulley. I originally was afraid to buy a car that even had a pulley but after seeing they're almost all pullied I figured it would be ok to buy one.

The car now has 60lb injectors, 2400MAF, Whipple at 16PSI, and BAP. I know originally I would have been afraid to buy a car with my mods but if I had to do it over again I would have bought a car with mods similar to mine. These cars are built to take twin screw power and not even think twice about it. So why not let someone else spend the money on the mods and you reap the rewards.

I say look for one with a twin screw/tvs that's been run at 17lbs or less, and the owner can take you on a test drive and run a datalog on to show you everything is fine. My car from the time its had a Whipple on it has never seen more than 16 degrees of timing (damn 91octane) and no leaner than a 11.0. Id say that's as safe as it can be.

 

[Snake Pliskin]

If the engine has been opened I would pass on it. Personal preference.

 

[testorossa1989]

My best suggestion, Bring a terminator owner with you that knows his/her stuff. I have plenty of cobra friends (even girls) that know their stuff. You can find a good one or one done poorly with tons of short cuts. After all any short cut is a long cut.

Finally, dont be afraid to walk away from your first car. Took me a few cars to find the one i have. The only thing id steer clear from is anything like 8# lower pulley, SRA(solid rear axle) , Turbos in general that werent built by shops with reciepts, And finally... RECIEPTS! No price should reflect appreciation of a car unless its a twinscrew, turbo, or motor work and reciepts help a lot. I would also find the tuner of the vehicle because they have seen it before and can give you more honest answers and know what it has most of the time. Good relationship with your tuner is key. Good luck and USE YOUR BEST JUDGEMENT

Personal preference: Any car that was tracked or SRA i would automatically walk away. High boost turbos and anything built motor. Unless your having it built by a shop, i wouldnt buy someone elses built motor car. Thats just me

 

[6spdg37s]

If the engine has been opened I would pass on it. Personal preference.

I agree !

My best suggestion, Bring a terminator owner with you that knows his/her stuff. I have plenty of cobra friends (even girls) that know their stuff. You can find a good one or one done poorly with tons of short cuts. After all any short cut is a long cut.

Finally, dont be afraid to walk away from your first car. Took me a few cars to find the one i have. The only thing id steer clear from is anything like 8# lower pulley, SRA(solid rear axle) , Turbos in general that werent built by shops with reciepts, And finally... RECIEPTS! No price should reflect appreciation of a car unless its a twinscrew, turbo, or motor work and reciepts help a lot. I would also find the tuner of the vehicle because they have seen it before and can give you more honest answers and know what it has most of the time. Good relationship with your tuner is key. Good luck and USE YOUR BEST JUDGEMENT

Personal preference: Any car that was tracked or SRA i would automatically walk away. High boost turbos and anything built motor. Unless your having it built by a shop, i wouldnt buy someone elses built motor car. Thats just me

I found a mint one for 27k. 04 ,only 6k miles on it redfire clearcoat coupe , with bassani exhaust, steeda shifter, 75mm single plenum throttle body and cold air intake,also a predator engine programmer. 1 owner all documented , window sticker etc; Just slightly out of my price range for right now and cant get a loan on a 7-8 year old car.

If it was yellow id be digging pennies out of my couch right now

but at the same time i have the fear of passing up what seems to be a good deal and never finding one when the timing is right for me to buy one.

 

[gamebred26]

mine was stock blower...headers exhaust...and a ****ed motor.

kid screwed me. seemed like a stand up guy too.

dont trust anyone.

compression test and leak down that sob. get it on a lift check it out etc. i didnt.

so i had two choices **** someone else and sell it..or go balls deep on a build.

i went balls deep lol.