Thinking about doing on3 kit... What else will I need???

[BADSEED]

Have been looking into doing on3 twin turbos on stock long block. Now what else do you guys think I would need running 5-6 psi and should car hold up for a 1-2 yrs. will BAP be enough for the fuel with id1000's in beginning. Car has 30k on it right now with couple of bolt-ons and is a m6. 80% street 20% 1/4 but won't be doing any hard launching till I can afford magnum xl

 

[hitmix300]

That should do it. Bap n injectors, obviously a tune.

You'll need some patience on the installation of you tackle it yourself. Multiple fitment issues and general annoyance on everything. Ask me how I know ;-)

 

[BADSEED]

I have 6 car garage at home with a lift and car isn't my daily so it doesn't really bother me. As long as kit functions and take down my buddy's supra I don't care lol

 

[FATHERFORD]

I once heard someone say.. "I would pay a shop 40 hours labor to install the on3 kit... I will never do it again."

 

[SCalla1384]

I'd like to know too. I'm most likely going novi, but on3 kit has crossed my mind.

Where is the fitment bad? The whole hot side or? If I did get it, I'd have upgraded bov and gates. And most likely their upgraded turbo option and eventually go precision down the road.

My only issue is, I can't weld. Don't know if the fitment is that bad where it needs welding? Or rubbing, or how are the v band clamps?

 

[Angry50]

i havent seen much of benefit of doing the twins vs some of the single turbo kits. they dont seem to get power much earlier or anything. i have heard of a lot of headaches with on3 install.

 

[cb900f]

Let's see... no instructions is a big problem. They don't aim the kit at the average DIY person.

Missing parts, some parts don't fit at all. You have to grind/adjust where needed.

Missing parts was the biggest PITA for me.

 

[2FST-4U]

I agree with what every one is saying the instructions suck and the fit and finish is not really great. I had to modify a lot of parts to fit. and it takes a lot of time to install. I would do a single kit over this kit.

 

[slagburn]

Maybe mine was the magic kit, but I doubt it. Only grinding was opening up the manifold holes a bit and a little on the drivers side turbo until I realized I was using the wrong clamp, which on3 quickly provided the correct one.

Is it a pain in the ass.. yeah, but I've been involved in other coyote twin installs and they weren't easy either. The phrase 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag cones to mind.

Ultimately you install the kit once and then the fun is just a memory, if you can't handle that then go ahead and make less power with a blower.

 

[JTS_7]

I personally had problems every time I started a new step of the install, and this is not my first turbo install or highly modified car, I do everything on my own always have and always will (within reason). At times I wish I just went with another kit. But as slagburn said, once the kit is installed you will quickly forget how frustrating everything was.

Missing parts. Damaged parts. Parts that did not fit at all. Parts welded incorrectly causing fitment issues. These kits are deff a hit or miss on fitment and quality. After speaking with almost a dozen members with the kit via PM's, phone calls, texts I am certain of this, there are a lot of "common" issues, then of course you have your one off issues. As you can see in this thread alone the trend of what I am saying.....

Customer service? What customer service? Once they have your money forget about it. Maybe a phone call or two max is all the customer service you will get. I took very detailed photos/videos of the "issues", which were obviously on their end due to poor quality control and had nothing to do with user error. At which point I got the "I will get back to you" and after multiple follow up emails/phone calls (none of which were answered) I got the point they wanted me to get lost...... seeing as I still have yet to receive a response.





One thing that made me laugh was my driver side downpipe was made incorrectly. The "cut out" side and the smashed side were on the wrong sides of the pipe. So now I had two pretty big restrictions in it that I did not need, then I had to go in and make clearance for the steering shaft in the correct spot. So now my downpipe had 3 pretty big restrictions. I plan on having a new one made down the road.

 

[slagburn]

One thing that made me laugh was my driver side downpipe was made incorrectly. The "cut out" side and the smashed side were on the wrong sides of the pipe. So now I had two pretty big restrictions in it that I did not need, then I had to go in and make clearance for the steering shaft in the correct spot. So now my downpipe had 3 pretty big restrictions. I plan on having a new one made down the road.

I forgot about that. Mine is the same way. There is a section that was cut and pie'd back in, and a hammered flat section. And nothing right where the steering shaft is. The steering shaft cleared anyway so none of that was necessary. Still made plenty of power with the extra restriction though.

 

[syclone50]

I too have that problem with my downpipe. Right now there is about 2mm of clearance from the DP to the driveshaft. We will see on start up.

My biggest issue is with the drivers side header where the turbo mounts. I had to elongate the 4 holes on the flange to get the turbo to sit closer to the valve cover. If I didn't do this the turbo hot side was hitting the wastegate pipe and would not let the turbo sit flush on the flange.

to make it work I had to also grind down a flat spot on the turbo hot side and the waste gate clamp.

I know if I was to get a response from Chad it would be "just move everything around till it fits". Right know the turbo still hits the wastegate pipe. There would be NOOOO way to get a turbo blanket on that side even if I wanted to.

Separate question anyone know what psi springs are in the wastegates

 

[slagburn]

I too have that problem with my downpipe. Right now there is about 2mm of clearance from the DP to the driveshaft. We will see on start up.

My biggest issue is with the drivers side header where the turbo mounts. I had to elongate the 4 holes on the flange to get the turbo to sit closer to the valve cover. If I didn't do this the turbo hot side was hitting the wastegate pipe and would not let the turbo sit flush on the flange.

to make it work I had to also grind down a flat spot on the turbo hot side and the waste gate clamp.

I know if I was to get a response from Chad it would be "just move everything around till it fits". Right know the turbo still hits the wastegate pipe. There would be NOOOO way to get a turbo blanket on that side even if I wanted to.

Separate question anyone know what psi springs are in the wastegates

The wastegate clamp in the location you mentioned should be a thin one, basically stamped steel. The thicker heavy clamp will not work there.

 

[syclone50]

All of my claps are heavy duty. I questioned Chad about this and he said "I can sent you a thinner clamp but they are cheap and wont work" LOL!

Here are some pics. You can CLEARLY see where they sent it to me with the pipe already dented in but the turbo was touching in a completely different spot LOL

 

[cb900f]

All of my claps are heavy duty. I questioned Chad about this and he said "I can sent you a thinner clamp but they are cheap and wont work" LOL!

Here are some pics. You can CLEARLY see where they sent it to me with the pipe already dented in but the turbo was touching in a completely different spot LOL

My clamp was the same. I ended up grinding the clamp and turbo slightly. Then I just cut a slit in my blanket to make it fit. :-/

 

[JTS_7]

I too have that problem with my downpipe. Right now there is about 2mm of clearance from the DP to the driveshaft. We will see on start up.

My biggest issue is with the drivers side header where the turbo mounts. I had to elongate the 4 holes on the flange to get the turbo to sit closer to the valve cover. If I didn't do this the turbo hot side was hitting the wastegate pipe and would not let the turbo sit flush on the flange.

to make it work I had to also grind down a flat spot on the turbo hot side and the waste gate clamp.

I know if I was to get a response from Chad it would be "just move everything around till it fits". Right know the turbo still hits the wastegate pipe. There would be NOOOO way to get a turbo blanket on that side even if I wanted to.

Separate question anyone know what psi springs are in the wastegates

Are those 67mm turbos? If so you will have to take an angle grinder with grinding wheel and go to town on the exhaust housing. Myself and another member had to do this.

6psi springs should be in the gates. I believe the spares are 10s.


LOL at Chad telling you to just make it work. I almost got fed up and filed a CC claim against them since they do not want to answer emails/calls. I ordered a "kit" not damaged/wrong parts that I needed to invest more time and money to make work. They always wanted to say well you must not know what youre doing......these kits are made perfect. Until of course I sent videos and pictures as hard proof, then they stopped responding.


Greg @ on3 actually started shouting at me one day, but he wont get into that. LOL I am still waiting for a response for the size of the oring that goes on the AC compressor fitting, mine has a leak (go figure).

 

[JTS_7]

Be sure to check your gates once you have them tightened down. Some of the gates will spin with a fully tightened clamp. You could try taking material off the face of the clamps. That worked for another member but not me........The circumfrance clamping force wasnt the issue. It was actually the inside of the clamp wasnt "filled" by the lips of the flange/wastegate.

I ended up purchasing genuine TIAL clamp which has a smaller area top to bottom inside the clamp. Those worked PERFECT! No more spinning/wobblig wastegate.

 

[onefastmf]

I have 6 car garage at home with a lift and car isn't my daily so it doesn't really bother me. As long as kit functions and take down my buddy's supra I don't care lol

Not to be a smart ass, but..... If you have a house with a 6 car garage and a lift, you should be able to flip the coin on a better kit and save yourself the troubles.

 

[SCalla1384]

Lol okay, def not going with on3. Way to many issues. By the time you upgrade the bov and gates, looking at close to 6000$. With the basic turbos. Nevermind fitment issues or missing parts.

 

[BADSEED]

Not to be a smart ass, but..... If you have a house with a 6 car garage and a lift, you should be able to flip the coin on a better kit and save yourself the troubles.

we'll the right kit with fuel and everything always comes out to around 10k so I rather save the other 5 and use it to put new trans or built motor down the road, I'm only 24 don't want to spend every penny I got I like to go on vacation and going out lol