The problem with underhood filter kits...

BOOOOST

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Last night, and today, I did some testing with 2 different intake kits and found some remarkable results:

The factory setup without the fender silencer caused the IAT sensor to registered nearly 160 degrees after just driving in low speed traffic, and sitting at idle for only a few minutes. With the fender silencer the temps still reached an unrealistically 140 to 150 degrees.

Ambient air temp was 82 degrees! Cruising on the freeway allowed the temps to reach the low to upper 90's depending on the speed (55 up to 85), with the higher speeds causing the lower temp readings.

Next up was the homemade inner fender kit with a 12" conical filter produced temps that were near ambient at all conditions, save for low speed driving and idling on heat-soaked pavement, but even then the temps never went over 110 degrees. The moment movement began the IAT temps went almost immediately to ambient.

Now, some of you will say this data means squat on the racetrack, but in reality it means a LOT! Sitting in the pits, doing your burnout, etc., with the factory setup with or without the fender silencer caused the temps to skyrocket yet again. With the fender kit the temps stayed at or not much higher above ambient (same circumstance with this setup as regular stop/go traffic as I described above).

I know most of you realize this, but did you know that these extreme temperature readings on the IAT causes the pcm to reduce your overal timing, thus lowering your cars performance? Ever notice how sluggish your car feels after driving it around in traffic, or at low speeds?

If anyone has access to an OBD-2 Scanning tool, such as the DiabloSport Hellion, or even if you know anyone with a Ford Powerstroke Predator (the diagnostics function on it will work on a Ford Gas vehicle), you can check your IAT temps at idle, low speed cruising, crawling through low speed traffic, as well as sustained freeway style cruising.

I'd like to see testing done on other underhood kits like the Amazon, Steeda, etc. kits, and if they have metal tubing or some form of plastic or composite setup.
 
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grnenvy

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I believe@ wide open throttle that sensor does nothing. @ wide open throttle the car runs off the meter and TPS sensor for air fuel
and timing adjustments, chip, maybe your just talking about temps under the hood/ fender well.
 

Rick@Amazon

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ACT1 is the one you are monitoring by the MAF. The important one to monitor is ACT2 which is under the intercooler. No matter where the air is being pulled from the temp won't very 2 or 3 degrees at the ACT2. If the ACT2 gets to a certain point is will pull timing out. I've did alot of testing and datalogging of the delta T between the two. The temp at ACT2 won't start to coming down under WOT till the car gets to 65+ mph. This is how I spec'd out my intercooler fan kit. It pulls 80 mph air through the heat exchanger. I keep trying different things to narrow the delta T between the two. I will keep you guys posted.

Rick
 

BOOOOST

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Hmmm. My information states:

The IAT2 sensor located after the supercharger provides air temperature information to the PCM to control border-line spark and to help determine intercooler efficiency, which also controls intercooler pump activation.

The IAT1 is located before the supercharger for standard OBD II/cold weather input, and is used to calculate fuel delivery, spark timing, and EGR controls.

Anyhoo, on the Lightnings, IAT1 will add timing, or pull timing, depending on how 3 different tables are set. I haven't studied this on the Cobras in depth yet, so I was just giving inputs based off of experience on the Lightnings, but I have no reason to believe that they do not work similar, or the same.
 

trey193

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I am sure there is a lot of power to be found by finding more and more out about these 2 areas, as far as ingesting hot under hood air, all the fast cars are running the big conical, and I am thinking of trying that over my JLP!
 

davidmax

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The larger the mass area (where air gets ingested into the motor)the more air will enter even at lower speeds.CAI may possibly help but dont expect the mythical"Ram Air"effect.I happen to be running a 12" conical through thru the fender wall with a 12" conical and the charge should be a tiny bit cooler but nothing compared to blowing C02 on the charge cooler.
If you want COOL AIR it takes compressed gas a blower not over revving and causing heat and Nos,or C02 on the IC.I have seen what a 50 shot of N20 does to 1 of these motors with ample fuel supply and its amazing.
Expect alot from real mods and not to much from ram air or other Urban Legands,Dave S.
 

BOOOOST

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David, was your reply in response to trey193, or me? I assume to trey193, as my post has nothing to do with "ram air" or any "urban legend". Thanks!
 

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