Terminator Engine Blocks

[GodStang]

So how about this question for you guys, and I appreciate all of your input, I really do. Ford has a 5.2L cast iron block for the terminator replacements. Has anyone built one of these up for a supercharged, 4 valve head application? Ford says it will take the 4 valve head and looks like a Termi block, hope you all have some info on this as a possible substitute. With more CI, and with proper compression ratio, it should make more HP also, correct?

Are you talking about the 5.4L Cast iron or the 5.2L Coyote motor block? The 5.2L won't work for us. If you get the right parts you can makes a 5.4L work. There are so many options you can do but depending on end goal as SlowSVT says you may want to search for a 3V 4.6L as they are fairly easy to come by.

 

[SlowSVT]

Yea I think he's confusing the Voodoo engine with a mod motor. Don't even think of running a 5.4 it's a much more involved swap than it appears.

If I were in your shoes with your goals I would stick with the Romeo block you already have. Chances are all you need is to clean-up the cylinders and your good to go. Once you exceed the overbore limits the block goes in the dumpster and can source another one from a wrecking yard (try doing that with a 5.2 but then again why would you?). There are plenty of Terminators running around with 800 hp Romeo's.

If I was going "balls out!" a V3 or teksid block would be on the menu.

I'm a little old fashion and prefer an iron block where there is a weight penalty of about 70 lbs. If your not "shooting for the moon" an iron block is stiffer and won't shift as much under load but will yield easier and crack if pushed too hard but they tend to last a long time if not overly abused. You have to use a lot more care when prepping an aluminum block. Cast iron is more like a "rock" and is very stable over temperature.

My choice is the Boss 5.0 iron block. It's basically a Teksid block cast in iron with 2 bolt main caps. It has full thickness main bearing saddles as opposed to single ribbed wall the Romeo employs, Siamesed bores which stiffens the block, full contact main bearing caps (no jackscrews) for better registration with larger side bolts and is cast in a ductile iron alloy over the factory gray iron (Detroit wonder metal). The 3.700" bore is not ideal for big boost but for a gasoline engine on the street the added displacement (305) plus the extra beef of the block make it a good choice if you can find one that hasn't been bored.

Keep in mind don't feel compelled you need to run out and buy a fancy engine block at your power level. All it needs to do is hold the engine together. Most engine failures are attributed to poor engine machining or assembly, not upgrading substandard components, a lean injector or the owner getting overzealous it won't matter which block you get in that case that are all doomed!

Your biggest hurdle will be finding a good machine shop who knows this motor and is tooled for it. Don't pick someone out of the phone book get referrals and don't trust 1 persons opinion get a consensus. That shiny freshly machined block that you gave to Hank was line bored using a worn cutter on a machine that is 30 years old and in a poor state of repair. Something you won't realize until you start the engine.

 

[comprepsvo]

Thanks guys