Teksid Turbo Build

[Forced_4v]

Hey everyone new member, first car forum account ever with some questions on a teksid turbo build that I am getting started on from the block up. I've been through several forums trying to find answeres but can't seem to find what I'm looking for so hopefully someone can enlighten me or send me in the right direction. With that said, the block displacement is completely stock and will be going in my 03 Cobra along with a Precision 7675 ball bearing turbo. As for what I'm trying to get out of the engine I plan to run a fuel system that allows me to switch between premium (91 octane) and E85 with a fuel cell. On premium I'd like to be around 850hp and on E85 in the 1000hp.

First question I have is what engine compression should I be aiming for? The car won't be an everyday driver but I still want it to be street friendly so I can take it out whenever I want to car meets and events. Please correct me if I have my info mixed, but I recall reading that usually when people turbo their cars they up the compression of their engines. I'm not sure if high compression would be the best option though because I had also read that high compression engines can have idle issues which would be noticable when driven in the streets, on top of which high compression engines also require higher octane fuel which isn't the easiest to get out in California. Another thing I should add though is I do plan on building the engine to max rpms at 9k. Don't know if that would contribute to the compression ratio? So with all off that I'd like to know any recommendations on compression that could meet those specs? 850-1000hp turbo build with 9K max revving running between both 91 octane and E85 street driven.

Second question is parts related, I plan to get forged everything on the internals to support the power I know there's maybe some cast parts that can handle it but I'd rather keep it safe and stick with forged. I have a ModMax forged crankshaft and want to know what style connecting rods I should use? I'd heard Manley makes really strong forged H beams which seem to be very popular in Ford builds but I don't really hear many people running I beams? I'd like a bit more information as to why this is so? I'm interested because I'd also read that I beams are lighter and more essential on a high reving engine to avoid heavy turbulence and throwing out a rod. For now those are my only questions but I'm sure I'll be back with more. I really appreciate your feedback I know there are plenty of knowledgeable builders on here I've lurked within svt forums for 3 years now so I hope you can drop some knowledge on my thread as well!

 

[SLPCobra]

From all I've read I would think you'd be hard pressed to make 850 on 91 without water meth. And also idk if you'd hit that with a single 7675.
Also you'll probably need a aftermarket ecu to run 9k I think the stock ecu can only handle 7500-8k area. I think most that go I beam go Oliver I beams. I hope someone with more experience comes around to provide better info since all mines just based on research I've been doing.

 

[RussZTT]

If you plan on running on 91 most of the time, I would stick to the 8.5 compression. You should safely see about 14-15psi. When you get higher in the compression, you will need higher octane. Then if that is the case, I would fit maybe a smaller turbo or smaller housing. Now, if you ran E85 most of the time then yes, up the comression so you can turn it up to 9K. With that high of RPMS, you will need some serious valve train upgrades $$$ which again, doesn't make sense to run only 91oct. You need to figure out how the car will be driven most of the time then figure out what kind of build you want to do. You're kind of scattered around, if that makes sense.

 

[SLPCobra]

Yeah definitely need valve train upgrades for 9k pulls forgot to put that comment in there!
Haha
Would he need a new ecu to pull those kinda rpms??

 

[Forced_4v]

Hey thanks for dropping in! Yea I guess I can kinda see where you're getting at with the whole fuel thing. I know I'll have to upgrade the valvetrain, springs cams and all that but that's fine with me again I don't mind the spend I just want it to be a strong and durable build. So it's kind of sounding like if I want high revs I need higher compression. So ok let's say I decide to keep it corn fed only and up the compression what would I be looking for ratio wise? Honestly since it won't be driven everyday I can live with just running E85 but when I do take it out, which again won't be very often, but is idle at high compression really that harsh on the street? For the most part when the car does come out it'll be for drags but I go back to the street idle just because I do attend events every once in awhile and just don't want any like high idle issues as I'm driving it through the streets for example if I have high compression?

 

[Forced_4v]

And yes you do need a new ecu in order to reach 9k

 

[Trackman]

E85 loves compression. Idle won't be an issue.

 

[RussZTT]

Hey thanks for dropping in! Yea I guess I can kinda see where you're getting at with the whole fuel thing. I know I'll have to upgrade the valvetrain, springs cams and all that but that's fine with me again I don't mind the spend I just want it to be a strong and durable build. So it's kind of sounding like if I want high revs I need higher compression. So ok let's say I decide to keep it corn fed only and up the compression what would I be looking for ratio wise? Honestly since it won't be driven everyday I can live with just running E85 but when I do take it out, which again won't be very often, but is idle at high compression really that harsh on the street? For the most part when the car does come out it'll be for drags but I go back to the street idle just because I do attend events every once in awhile and just don't want any like high idle issues as I'm driving it through the streets for example if I have high compression?

No, higher compression idle isn't an issue. Really will depends on what cams you use where the idle will come in. There are alot of turbo guys running 10.5 compression on their turbo cars and it idles like stock. Alot of cars now a days run that compression "NA" of course with no issues. Even turbo cars and pretty much NA cars at idle anyway.
Id say, keep E85, run around 10 or so compression and go for it since you wont be driving it that much anyway.

 

[Nightmare302]

10:1 at least on the compression. Don't fear compression especially on e-85. There is no need to rev to 9k you will not make anymore power at 9k and you would just put insane stress on your rods. The 7675 doesn't need to be ball bearing and I'd look into a different unit all together but if you already own it that's fine.

On pump gas you will not make 850 rwhp. With a 6 speed you might make 1krwhp on e85 if you run decent compression and it will save you from losing to much less hp cars.

I-beam rods aren't used because to be strong enough they need to be billet and billet I beams are well over twice the cost of nice H-beams. Manley H beams with ARP 2000 bolts can live in a 1krwhp car just fine but they won't take 9k rpm (again you'll never make it to 9k anyway). I personally use billet i beams.

To spin past 8k you will need a serious serious intake, stupid cams (that will hurt idle), aftermarket ECU, and some serious top end work (FGT lash adjusts/followers, springs retainers).

To meet your goals you don't need to try to reinvent the wheel.

Lastly, your current build plan is a recipe for a poor performing car that breaks down a lot. Not trying to be a debbie downer just trying to bring you back to earth.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Posting in here so I remember to PM you on what to do.. I hope your pocket book is deep.. Like 30k+deep.. I'll shoot you a PM when I'm off work.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Well you PM is turned off so I"ll just post.. First off like others have said 9k is stupid.. 8k is plenty and it'll require less freshen ups from issues.. But either way the engine is going to have to be very stout.. After market ECU is a must..

Engine:

You're going to need a lot of headwork to flow to 8k.. Most C-heads ported out don't make power that high. B-heads are a different story and the best would be Ford GT heads. You'll need all the supporting valve train as well.

Custom cams for your rpm and goals
Custom intake to flow the rpm that you want.
Pistons should be 10:1 or 10:5 and a custom design to withstand the power.
Manley Billet I beam rods
Teksid block with tensioner mods dowel upgrades and deburring.
Bigger timing chains.. (just go to accufabs website and order all their shit they sell basically)
Crank might need some work but nothing major
76mm turbo should be just fine.

last but not least you need a hell of a engine builder to make the car live for a while at that rpm. E85 is essential and you shouldn't even be looking at pump shit 91 anyways. Turn your PM function on and PM me.

 

[Nightmare302]

My opinion, if you only want 1krwhp through a stick, don't bother with all that. What is listed above is basically correct but is overkill for a 1krwhp car.

If you want 1krwhp, have the exhaust seats gone through on stock 03 heads, get BTR springs, build a teksid or 05+ WAP with a slight overbore custom pistons, reuse the forged crank, manley h beams with arp 2000 bolts, good oil pump/gears (FOMOCO and boundry gears), and boost it. If you want some more on less boost throw in some cams while it's apart. Spin it to 7k and be happy.

What he listed above is basically my build, I plan to spin to 7.5k on a modified FR-500c intake with ported GT heads with twin 62/68's. If I make less than 1300rwhp through an auto I will feel my build has failed. That's a long way away from 1k through a stick and a ton more cash.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

^^ It's also my build lol

 

[Juiced46]

Since nobody has asked. Why do you want to spin it to 9,000 RPMs?

 

[Forced_4v]

Hey thanks for everyone who's been posting more information on my questions sorry I haven't been able to figure that out yet and don't get online everyday because of my full time job and classes. I don't plan to rev up to 9k I'd be in the low 8's but as mentioned I want the build to be able to handle that sort of engine revolutions without any worries. I know its capable of being done I actually do have a friend of mine that will be putting everything together for me and dropping it into the car he owns a performance shop in San Jose, California called EFI Powerhouse. His field of work is all mustangs he himself owns a Foxbody and 03 cobra single 88mm turbo on a teksid block revving to 8.5k. I know he'll do a good job I just like doing my own research and gathering any info I can just for my side. Plus i usually have to go into the shop when I have questions since he's always working on something and that's not always easy for me.

With that said I know the build will be pricey he is a good friend though so I will be charged dirty cheap on labor and I've gotten a good idea of what the parts would cost I've seen the cost on just about billet everything for the internals but I'm willing to spend the money IF necessary. That's why I'm here now to figure out what I need or to put in better words what's best so I can reach those build goals for example if I have to go billet rods that's fine but if I don't then what else is there which was why I brought the question of the I beams and H beams.
I also had already looked into gt heads as well for the same reason that I'd read they have more flow than the stock cobra heads when both at stock bores. I just didn't go too deep into it because well I couldn't find much on it just that they required machining to fit the 4.6l block, which I'd be fine with, and since my builder is running the cobra heads on his teksid and revving to 8s no problem I stopped looking. Can someone give me more info on the head swap and benefits if I would go that route? Much appreciated again! And will set up pm asap!

 

[Nightmare302]

GT heads fit just fine on a 4.6 block, the issues finding an intake that fits them. The only intakes off the shelf that fit a GT headed 4.6 is the FR-500C intake, Sullivan and the Carbon Fiber intake from Roush Yates. Again, for your HP goals you are over building and over spinning the car. There is ZERO read it again ZERO need to spin a 4.6 to 8.5k to make 1000rwhp. All you are doing is stressing the crap out of your engine. A nice set of C heads will flow more than enough to meet your power goals. I suggest you step back and find what you REALLY want out of this car. Is it a street car? Race? What trans? What's the goals of the car? Is it just dyno numbers?

I'll say it again, spinning a 4.6 to 8.5k/9k won't make anymore power for 99.99999 percent of builds out there. You would need incredibly short runners on the intake, and some serious valve train along with some massive cams. You were worried about idle with compression yet you are wanting to install some massive cams that will make idle "rough" at best.

You need to decide exactly what you want first, then build the engine to achieve that goal. If you are honestly trying to stick with the T-56 you've just posted up a recipe for a 30k build that would not be anywhere near competitive in an actual race.

 

[1Fast-Turbo-Cou]

I spin mine to 8800, it doesn't make more power there but it does allow me to be in a lower gear for a longer period of time.

 

[Nightmare302]

I spin mine to 8800, it doesn't make more power there but it does allow me to be in a lower gear for a longer period of time.

Use a glide/th400 and profit without stressing the engine.

 

[1Fast-Turbo-Cou]

Use a glide/th400 and profit without stressing the engine.

I run a 4R70W. I had 3:73's in it but Accufab told me to put 4:10's in it and rev it higher.. So that's what I do.

 

[69mach428]

I run a 4R70W. I had 3:73's in it but Accufab told me to put 4:10's in it and rev it higher.. So that's what I do.

That is a lot of starting line ratio, I'm surprised you can make that work in 1st.