tax return spent before it comes!

[triplethreat]

I am thinking about buying another motor with next yrs tax return. This is the pending plan. I am wanting to do a 5.3l stroker w/ Livernois stage 3 heads and cams. What do you guys think and how much do you think I will be putting out. I plan on staying N/A.

MMR 4.6 Race 325 Cubic Inch, 5.3 Liter Stroker Mod 1400 (up to 1400HP) 2V, 3V or 4V

*Brand New FORD RACING BIG BORE ALUMINUM BLOCK, torque plate bored and honed, this is a block designed specifically by ford for 3.700 Bore. THIS IS NOT A TEKSID BLOCK THAT HAS BEEN MACHINED AND SLEEVED, MMR DOES NOT SELL OR RECOMMEND THIS DUE TO HEAD GASKET SEALING ISSUES AND WATER LEAKING BETWEEN THE SLEEVES AND INTO THE OIL!!!

*New 4340 Forged MMR STROKER Crankshaft, includes additional heat treat w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 Manley Pro-series Billet Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest I-beam rod available for your 4.6

*New Forged MMR/Manley or Diamond Custom pistons 3.700 Bore size (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

*Federal Mogul Competition series heat treated Rod and Main bearings

*ARP main stud kit for maintaining correct cap location under the hardest of loads

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt)

Upgrade to MMR block side bolts

MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump

MMR Hurricane Billet Oil Pump

Cometic 3.700 Bore Head Gaskets

ARP Headstuds +$269.99

MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP)

its gonna cost me around $13-14k w/ heads and cams

 

[mrmustangman357]

you must make alot of cash if this is what your tax return is going toward lol

 

[Un4GivN]

What do I think? For $13k+ I believe I'd build your engine and slap some turbo's on it... You're hp/tq is gonna be extremely disappointing for the money you're gonna spend on that setup.

 

[lancec2c30]

N/A would be the wrong way to go with that setup. All the money on a built MMR block, it should be sucking on a bottle or getting stuffed by a blower or turbo(s) :burnout:

 

[triplethreat]

I am open to suggestions if I do the 5.3 setup. I figured it would be good start for now. There will be other plans later down the line but i cant forget that the wife will want some stuff done or new furniture or walk in closet ect. So I have to do thing a little at a time (Big chunks, then nothing, more big chunks). this should tie me over for a couple years maybe.

 

[triplethreat]

I am not rich by the way or make alot. I invested in some good stocks.

 

[gmsux]

go FI with 298" stroker and you'll have a lot more power than the n/a build

 

[Quadcammer]

how bout forget the stroker all together and just slap a procharger on your stock motor.

It will cost you $4,500, you'll get 450rwhp, and it will most likely last at least 1.5 years before it blows up (ymmv). If it blows later, then you can reevaluate what you want to do.

The $14k you would spend on that motor wouldn't be worth it if you ask me.

 

[olgreydog7]

You'll need a serious intake to make it work. A worked FR500 or Sully at the least, but a custom sheet metal job would be best. Naz made 530 rwhp with a stout bb/stroker with all the goodies. You'd be hard pressed to top that. Plus, he had to run a blend of 93 and race gas to make the compression work. What are your goals for the car? I'm all for killer NA combos, but if you want more than 450-500 rwhp, just do a .020 over build and booost it.

 

[Un4GivN]

You'll need a serious intake to make it work. A worked FR500 or Sully at the least, but a custom sheet metal job would be best. Naz made 530 rwhp with a stout bb/stroker with all the goodies. You'd be hard pressed to top that. Plus, he had to run a blend of 93 and race gas to make the compression work. What are your goals for the car? I'm all for killer NA combos, but if you want more than 450-500 rwhp, just do a .020 over build and booost it.

QFT

Naz's car was also turning over 8k RPMs.

 

[triplethreat]

I did blow the motor when I first got my Procharger P-1sc stage 2 w/ 3 core (and all the supporting mods). I rebuilt the engine and forged it and bored it. I sold it on this site back in Oct 08. I was running a reichard racing 2.70 ultra grip pulley on it. I did that route now I looking to extract every ounce of N/A power prior to a power adder. Once I get the set up put together I will pull the built motor and put in the new one. I want to add a Kenne bell,or HP twin turbo on it later. I am try to get around 500 hp N/A prior to play around with for now.

 

[olgreydog7]

That's cool. Well, like I said, you will need some serious rpm and a serious intake. The few specs I heard about Naz's cams were actually quite mild. I expected something way bigger than what they were. I would go with a custom grind cam over an off the shelf version. Maybe call Livernois, and have something matched to your intake and heads.

 

[triplethreat]

me and a couple of friends were planning on making the trip up to Livernios (they want to get heads and cams installed on there 07 GTs.) .

 

[Boostin01Slobra]

I would probably get a 5.4 and destroke it and throw some 96-98 cams in it(or stg 3 blower cams), and throw a t88& a stalled c4 in !! that is...if i had 13k+ to spend haha i know you want to stay N/A..but that is ALOT of money to be where u would be @ if that makes any sense. Just read where this is basically a temporary motor...sorry
Subscribed*

 

[Un4GivN]

The problem I see here is you wanting to get the most out of it in N/A form before you use a power adder... You set engines up completely different when N/A, turbo, s/c etc.. It would make a lot more sense to build/buy a 281 built for tons of boost. What's the point in spending all the extra money for a BB Stroker when all you have to do is turn up the boost?

 

[triplethreat]

i see your guys point. so you are saying built motor, heads w/ blower cams, kenne bell 2.1l with 15-22 lbs of boost and call it a day.

 

[Boostin01Slobra]

F1 !

 

[K2AHollywood]

i see your guys point. so you are saying built motor, heads w/ blower cams, kenne bell 2.1l with 15-22 lbs of boost and call it a day.

IMHO from reading your thread you are obviously crazy so add that Hellion Twin kit to this and then you should be ok :thumbsup:

 

[Quadcammer]

I did blow the motor when I first got my Procharger P-1sc stage 2 w/ 3 core (and all the supporting mods). I rebuilt the engine and forged it and bored it. I sold it on this site back in Oct 08. I was running a reichard racing 2.70 ultra grip pulley on it. I did that route now I looking to extract every ounce of N/A power prior to a power adder. Once I get the set up put together I will pull the built motor and put in the new one. I want to add a Kenne bell,or HP twin turbo on it later. I am try to get around 500 hp N/A prior to play around with for now.

Im confused. You spent the money to build a forged motor with a procharger, and then you sold it in October. Now you want to do it again?

Why didn't you just keep what you had the first time around?

 

[Un4GivN]

i see your guys point. so you are saying built motor, heads w/ blower cams, kenne bell 2.1l with 15-22 lbs of boost and call it a day.

If KB is your choice of power adder, then sure, why not. IMO, I say buy a MPH shortblock, use stock heads/cams, throw a twin turbo kit on it and crank up the boost. I don't see the sense in paying $1500 for a cam kit, who knows how much for worked heads when you can turn up the boost controller. No belt slip/pulley swaps with turbo's either.