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Talk to me about these suspension/steering mods
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<blockquote data-quote="brkntrxn" data-source="post: 7612733" data-attributes="member: 12396"><p>Oliver,</p><p></p><p>You probably won't like my suggestions, but I'll list them anyway:</p><p></p><p>1. Drive it as is until you are absolutely positive you cannot make the car go any faster without adding parts.</p><p>2. Get a good driver drive your car to see if it is at its mechanical limit</p><p>3. If yes, add parts. If no, keep driving it until you get to the car's limit.</p><p></p><p>So, now that I stated that... here are a couple of questions/points to ponder:</p><p></p><p>1. Are you running wider tires in the rear? You stated 275s on the front, what do you have on the rear? The Mustang is a plowing pig from the factory as we all know (after all, it is a V6 car and understeer is safer than oversteer), with wider tires on the rear it just accentuates the bad setup. Go to identical size tires all the way around and that will allow more movement out of the rear -- effectively helping out with the understeering issue. The key to getting through a turn is not always front grip but rotation out of the car. You can get rotation if you can get the rear to move around. With your power level, you can also achieve this by learning how to modulate the go-fast pedal in the middle of a turn to induce rotation (within reason).</p><p></p><p>2. Replace the front struts you said are worn out. I have Bilstein struts and shocks with H&R Race Springs. They work just fine for right now, my next step will be coil-overs on all four corners.</p><p></p><p>3. What are your alignment specs? You should be running a couple of degrees of negative camber, some toe, etc. on the front and rear. Do you have castor/camber plates? If not, get a set from MM or someone.</p><p></p><p>4. As long as you have that extra 80-100lbs from the Vortech you are going to be nose heavy. Off-set that with a lighter wheel and tire package, a lightweigh K-member and A-arm setup (Agent 47 has good feedback), carbon fiber fenders, relocated battery, etc. Removing the blower has made such a huge difference in how my car feels and rotates. If you want to keep the power, you need to do other things to remove front weight.</p><p></p><p>5. That CG-Lock will be the best $35 you have spent all year long.</p><p></p><p>6. Have you bought a roll-bar yet? The Autopower I put in our vert works well and is a bolt-in design if you want to remove it later.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Honestly though, just drive the car. As long as you have all that power, it is going to take you a long time to get consistent with the car (I am speaking from my experience). Replace the struts, get MM plates, get an alignment and go to 275s all the way around. Then just drive the car and have fun learning!!!</p><p></p><p></p><p>Kevin</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="brkntrxn, post: 7612733, member: 12396"] Oliver, You probably won't like my suggestions, but I'll list them anyway: 1. Drive it as is until you are absolutely positive you cannot make the car go any faster without adding parts. 2. Get a good driver drive your car to see if it is at its mechanical limit 3. If yes, add parts. If no, keep driving it until you get to the car's limit. So, now that I stated that... here are a couple of questions/points to ponder: 1. Are you running wider tires in the rear? You stated 275s on the front, what do you have on the rear? The Mustang is a plowing pig from the factory as we all know (after all, it is a V6 car and understeer is safer than oversteer), with wider tires on the rear it just accentuates the bad setup. Go to identical size tires all the way around and that will allow more movement out of the rear -- effectively helping out with the understeering issue. The key to getting through a turn is not always front grip but rotation out of the car. You can get rotation if you can get the rear to move around. With your power level, you can also achieve this by learning how to modulate the go-fast pedal in the middle of a turn to induce rotation (within reason). 2. Replace the front struts you said are worn out. I have Bilstein struts and shocks with H&R Race Springs. They work just fine for right now, my next step will be coil-overs on all four corners. 3. What are your alignment specs? You should be running a couple of degrees of negative camber, some toe, etc. on the front and rear. Do you have castor/camber plates? If not, get a set from MM or someone. 4. As long as you have that extra 80-100lbs from the Vortech you are going to be nose heavy. Off-set that with a lighter wheel and tire package, a lightweigh K-member and A-arm setup (Agent 47 has good feedback), carbon fiber fenders, relocated battery, etc. Removing the blower has made such a huge difference in how my car feels and rotates. If you want to keep the power, you need to do other things to remove front weight. 5. That CG-Lock will be the best $35 you have spent all year long. 6. Have you bought a roll-bar yet? The Autopower I put in our vert works well and is a bolt-in design if you want to remove it later. Honestly though, just drive the car. As long as you have all that power, it is going to take you a long time to get consistent with the car (I am speaking from my experience). Replace the struts, get MM plates, get an alignment and go to 275s all the way around. Then just drive the car and have fun learning!!! Kevin [/QUOTE]
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Talk to me about these suspension/steering mods
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