'MF upper starter bolt', aka 'b---h bolt' -
The starter bolts are a PITA, but easy once you have the recipe. If you search the threads there are many methods discussed and debated. So here is a picture of the access point and extension/sockets that worked for me. I have stock K member/manifolds.
13mm swivel socket.
Insert here and guide socket onto bolt head with your other hand....
Perfect input shaft/ clutch disk alignment -
I wasted 3 hours trying to get the trans to seat the last 3/4", as the input shaft wouldn't seat in the pilot bearing. I test fitted all parts as they were new (26 spline input shaft, pilot, clutch disks) before I installed anything. The alignment tool would go in easy but wasn't perfectly centered. I added some concentric spacers (aka pipe) and shimmed with electrical tape to make a collar that fit perfectly into the pressure plate fingers. Note that the diameter or this hole shrinks as you tighten the pressure plate down. For the RXT the diameter was about 1.75". I loosened the pressure plate until the disks would just move, sized the tool accordingly by removing layers of tape (-0.015"), and tightened the bolts a 1/4 turn. Now that the disks are centered I torqued and sure enough the trans installed 1st attempt with no resistance. Jacking the front of the motor also really helps.
Note: The dowel pins between the 2 halves of the bell housing present no resistance, you should NOT have to use the bolts to pull the assembly together (or strip the AL threads). The dowels on the engine block are another story.
Another method discussed here is to start a few bolts and depress the clutch pedal/move the fork to allow the disks to release and line things up. I don't see how this can be done safely, the throw on the TOB is not enough and will bind on the retainer before the pressure plate finger have enough pressure to release. This should not be necessary if the alignment tool is centered properly
The starter bolts are a PITA, but easy once you have the recipe. If you search the threads there are many methods discussed and debated. So here is a picture of the access point and extension/sockets that worked for me. I have stock K member/manifolds.
13mm swivel socket.
Insert here and guide socket onto bolt head with your other hand....
Perfect input shaft/ clutch disk alignment -
I wasted 3 hours trying to get the trans to seat the last 3/4", as the input shaft wouldn't seat in the pilot bearing. I test fitted all parts as they were new (26 spline input shaft, pilot, clutch disks) before I installed anything. The alignment tool would go in easy but wasn't perfectly centered. I added some concentric spacers (aka pipe) and shimmed with electrical tape to make a collar that fit perfectly into the pressure plate fingers. Note that the diameter or this hole shrinks as you tighten the pressure plate down. For the RXT the diameter was about 1.75". I loosened the pressure plate until the disks would just move, sized the tool accordingly by removing layers of tape (-0.015"), and tightened the bolts a 1/4 turn. Now that the disks are centered I torqued and sure enough the trans installed 1st attempt with no resistance. Jacking the front of the motor also really helps.
Note: The dowel pins between the 2 halves of the bell housing present no resistance, you should NOT have to use the bolts to pull the assembly together (or strip the AL threads). The dowels on the engine block are another story.
Another method discussed here is to start a few bolts and depress the clutch pedal/move the fork to allow the disks to release and line things up. I don't see how this can be done safely, the throw on the TOB is not enough and will bind on the retainer before the pressure plate finger have enough pressure to release. This should not be necessary if the alignment tool is centered properly
