I picked up an 04 cobra t56 with the 96 - 98 cobra driveshaft, bellhousing and crossmember. Can I use the clutch fork and tob out of the t45?
t56 in a 96
- Thread starter Salmonsnake
- Start date
yes but you should replace the tob while you have everything torn apart. Its a cheap part and should be replaced.
alright, it'll get an frpp tob. thanks for the info !
dont you need a 03-04 cobra driveshaft since the t-56 is a longer? when i bought my t-56 thats what i went with, also a new bellhousing, rear yoke, and relocate your crossmember back. Also change your clutch and flywheel while your at it. Good luck with the swap..your gonna love this new setup.
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The stock driveshaft will work, if you have it shortened and a new yoke put on it... Easiest solution is a new ford driveshaft with the pinion flange from an 03-04.
Just did the swap. You need a driveshaft out of an 03-04 car. Also, you can use the pinion flange off of your old driveshaft by using a 1330-1350 hybrid u joint. Usually in stock at Autozone or Oreilly.
In the process of doing the swap also.
I would suggest to buy the AJE 94-98 Crossmember so your not drilling and welding on the chassis, best option IMO. AJE Racing
Driveshaft will need to be shortened then balanced.
Clutch fork is interchangeable and replace the TOB.
I would also suggest replacing the TOB Retainer Sleeve with one from Lethal Performance, the stock ones sometimes snap because they're cast and the TOB gets stuck.
Do the flywheel and clutch while you have everything off if you can afford it too.
I would suggest to buy the AJE 94-98 Crossmember so your not drilling and welding on the chassis, best option IMO. AJE Racing
Driveshaft will need to be shortened then balanced.
Clutch fork is interchangeable and replace the TOB.
I would also suggest replacing the TOB Retainer Sleeve with one from Lethal Performance, the stock ones sometimes snap because they're cast and the TOB gets stuck.
Do the flywheel and clutch while you have everything off if you can afford it too.
The drive shaft i got with the setup is an 03/4 cobra one but i need to change the companion flange on the back of the driveshaft because it is different. The guy i bought it from had the whole works in his 97 cobra. im not sure what crossmember it is but i could post pics of everything i have.
i cant post attachments yet.. dammit !
If he had it in his 97, why do you need to change the driveshaft flange? Why spend $93 on a new flange when the ujoint is like $17?
This
No, if you have a 03/04 driveshaft this is the flange you need.
2003-04 Mustang Cobra Pinion Flange by Ford Racing at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
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This is not the style that's on my driveshaft. - 03 cobra drive shaft - Google Search
It's just a u joint and the link I posted before is what would match up to it. When I bought the setup he told me id have to change my pinion flange to run that driveshaft. I'm under the impression that the style I have is stronger. I wish I could post a pic !
This is not the style that's on my driveshaft. - 03 cobra drive shaft - Google Search
It's just a u joint and the link I posted before is what would match up to it. When I bought the setup he told me id have to change my pinion flange to run that driveshaft. I'm under the impression that the style I have is stronger. I wish I could post a pic !
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I guess if you want to spend $70 extra that's your business, but to me I doesn't make a great deal of sense to try to justify the purchase with a strength argument, considering there are 800, 900, 1000 wheel horsepower cars running around on the exact flange setup I posted. Obviously you're welcome to do as you wish but if you look in any of the big conversion threads you'll see it is one of the two tested and proven methods that everyone uses (including myself - T56, 03/04 driveshaft, pinion flange I posted).
-edit- I think maybe you're misunderstanding. You don't change the flange on the end of the 03/04 driveshaft, you change the flange that is on the rear-end.
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No, I understand. 95% of people don't push the power to require the use of a solid u joint. Furthermore, most people on this forum are on a tight budget and the conversion u joint fits the bill. I personally don't drag race and do not run slicks and do not push big power.
Going balls to the wall on everything is the theme on the internet. Bragging rights and my balls are bigger than your balls. To each their own.
Another side note, it would beneficial to many if an aftermarket company made a solid 1330/1350 conversion u joint. That way we could all have our cake and eat it too.
Hah, no doubt. Going broke to impress someone you'll never meet. I've watched that happen several times.
For sure, that would be nice. The only reason I opted to change the pinion flange in my car is it was only $2 more than the conversion u-joint and I needed to replace the pinion seal anyway so it just seemed to make sense.
alright alright i get it, thanks for the help guys !
I've been pretty hard on that hybrid u-joint and it hasn't given up yet. I'm about to switch to a 35 spline axles and 9" ends with an anti-roll bar. I don't expect it to have any problems, but maybe you'll all prove me wrong.
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