Got a vibration that begins at 80mph and really doesn't go away; my Tri-axe shifter doesn't help (LOL). Has anyone done one before? Besides pulling the tranny and the tail shaft, then beating out the bushing itself, is there anything else to it?
T5 tailshaft bushing
- Thread starter bat-stang
- Start date
I have never heard of that being an item that needs replacing.
Does your high speed vibration have a "harmonic sound" also? Do you have an aluminum driveshaft? Is it properly installed? (do the yellow marks on the pinion flange and driveshaft 'line up'?)
Does your high speed vibration have a "harmonic sound" also? Do you have an aluminum driveshaft? Is it properly installed? (do the yellow marks on the pinion flange and driveshaft 'line up'?)
The tailshaft bushing do wear out and seem to get noticeable slack in the 100K+ mile range.
If the bushing is worn (to the point of replacement time) you will be able to move the front driveshaft yoke up & down as well as side to side.
Some transmission shops actually have a tool that can reach in and pull out the bushing w/o having to remove the tailhousing or tranny. If you are gonna do it yourself then you really have no other option but to pull the tranny and remove the t-housing. Knock out the old and tap in the new bushing.
I would also check the wear on your front yoke. Check the u-joints. Check the out put shaft for run-out (is it bent?) Check the rear end flange to see if the pinion bearing is worn (moves any in/out or up/down)
If the bushing is worn (to the point of replacement time) you will be able to move the front driveshaft yoke up & down as well as side to side.
Some transmission shops actually have a tool that can reach in and pull out the bushing w/o having to remove the tailhousing or tranny. If you are gonna do it yourself then you really have no other option but to pull the tranny and remove the t-housing. Knock out the old and tap in the new bushing.
I would also check the wear on your front yoke. Check the u-joints. Check the out put shaft for run-out (is it bent?) Check the rear end flange to see if the pinion bearing is worn (moves any in/out or up/down)
I appreciate your responses; I have an alum d-shaft and to tell you the truth I've never heard about lining up the yellow lines; and I do have a bit of a 'harmonic' sound --My car has around 60k on the (rebuild) engine and probably about 50k on the transmission. I do have some yolk play but I may take it to a (reputable) shop and see if the play is substantial. It may be that the d-shaft is off. I used to have signigicant vibrations and I was able to dial most of it out with an pinion angle adjustment. I recently removed my double adjustable uppers for a pair of eurathane bushed Holcomb Mo'sports and much to my chagrine, the remaining vibration DID NOT go away. Hopefully with your help I can fix this problem. Thanks fellas.
the yellow marks on the driveshaft and the piniion flange play a very important role in correct installment. Check thoose out!
Thanks Lee, looks like an 'after work' excuse to pull out the tools.
No yellow marks on my pinion flange--?!
They are there, you may just have to look real hard with a good light
bat-stang said:
Does the pinion flange have a light layer of rust? If so, which most do, this rust will hide assembly line paint daubs and Mark-all paint stick markings.
R
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Thanks fellas. I will take some scotch-brite to it-- so far i have just rotated the d-shaft 1/4 turn with no relief yet.
bat-stang said:
A scotch-brite will remove the rust, but it will also remove any markings that were put on the metal surface. I have found that Ospho or most any other liquid rust remover works best. It desolves the rust and leaves the natural metal suface "as it was". Sometimes the assy. line markings are faded from age, but they are still visible most of the time. Navel Jelly also works well to remove rust and leaves the surface in-tact with markings still in place.
R
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Thanks Robert.
You may have to go 1/4 turn, if that doesnt work then go 1/2 turn the other way. If that doesnt work them go 180 degrees from the beginning, I hope you marked it before you move it on the driveshaft and the flange.
If all else fails then goto a driveline shop.
If all else fails then goto a driveline shop.
You bet; I marked it and have already gone 1/4 clockwise. Time to got back the other way 1/2.
My car has a harmonic vibration at 80mph+, it comes every few seconds like clockwork. The driveshaft was last re-installed by a friend...
I did find the yellow marks on the pinion flange under some rust and in the groove. It has reduced the vibration to a degree (lining up the colors) but my shifter (TRI AXE) still sounds like an impact above 100 or so mph and its especially bad on decel...I'm thinking its just the fox tranny and I'll look at an MGW shifter.
Round you up a piece of thin rubber to mount between the handle and the shifter. That will fix you right up
On that yellow mark thing: If you've had aftermaket gears installed, the marks wouldn't still be accurate, would they (since the pinion is removed and replaced and the flange more than likely isn't reinstalled in the same place)?
You know, I used the gasket that one of our forum-mates sells and it did ok, but It eventually squeezed out from underneath my shifter--?! I know--it sounds like I should be working on a barrel of monkeys rather than my car, but it really didn't work well for me...But I'm sure it was me and not the product. I'll probably try it again. I think that as I actually fix ALL of these issues and not just fix what's making noise right now, I can will get these problems resolved.
You know, I used the gasket that one of our forum-mates sells and it did ok, but It eventually squeezed out from underneath my shifter--?! I know--it sounds like I should be working on a barrel of monkeys rather than my car, but it really didn't work well for me...But I'm sure it was me and not the product. I'll probably try it again. I think that as I actually fix ALL of these issues and not just fix what's making noise right now, I can will get these problems resolved.
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Also, make sure your stops for the shifter are adjusted correctly. If they are too close to the shifter, the shifter will rattle against the stops...
I put a a piece of velcro (fuzzy side) between my shifter and stops, keeps it from rattling...
I put a a piece of velcro (fuzzy side) between my shifter and stops, keeps it from rattling...
bat-stang said:
Sure it would. The pinion flange is "offset" and the marks are to line the proper mounting points of the d/s and flange
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