t-56 swap guys, need some advice

[Richter888]

I'm taking off work all next week just to perform my swap. I wanted to go over the list of items I currently have. Please chime in if anything is missing or suggested.

T-56 with factory bellhousing and 26 spline shaft
Frpp shift fork and throw out bearing
Roller pilot bushing
Aluminum driveshaft
T56 kmember
Fidanza aluminum flywheel with arp bolts
Spec stage 2 clutch
2003 cobra pinion flange with new harware

I'm really looking forward to finally getting this done. Just waiting for my amsoil tranny fluid to come in. As soon as this is done I'm getting my exhaust fixed and then the car will finally be sitting in the trim I've wanted it on for a long time!

 

[snakeraper11b]

You should be good to go with that list. I would replace the clutch cable, quadrant, and add a firewall adjuster while you're at it. Make sure you address the reverse lockout situation while you have it out of the car. I did this swap a few months ago, just a little more extreme, and I love it now that I've got all the bugs worked out.

 

[Kove]

I would add a Billet TOB retainer sleeve as well if it wasn't done when the 26 spline was installed. Do you already have a shifter for the T56? It wasn't listed in your parts. Like snakeraper said, quadrant, OEM cable and firewall adjuster. The Fiore adjuster with Steeda quadrant is the most popular combo. For the reverse lockout, I just wired it to a toggle switch. I put the switch in my billet coin holder delete. It's a pretty straight forward swap, could be done in a day or 2 if you have all the parts. Good luck


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[snakeraper11b]

I would add a Billet TOB retainer sleeve as well if it wasn't done when the 26 spline was installed. Do you already have a shifter for the T56? It wasn't listed in your parts. Like snakeraper said, quadrant, OEM cable and firewall adjuster. The Fiore adjuster with Steeda quadrant is the most popular combo. For the reverse lockout, I just wired it to a toggle switch. I put the switch in my billet coin holder delete. It's a pretty straight forward swap, could be done in a day or 2 if you have all the parts. Good luck


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I have the fiore micro click and the steeda quadrant, works great. I cut the spring 1 1/2 coils in the reverse lockout. No wiring, no electronics, nothing to explain to someone else driving your car, and still enough resistance to not grind reverse.

 

[IUP99snake]

The t56 swap is a piece of cake. The speedo and reverse light harnesses plug right in. The only other thing I can think of is what you're going to do with the reverse lockout solenoid. It's a connector right underneath where the shifter bolts to. It's not required, you'll still be able to access reverse without connecting it, but it'll take a little more effort than what you are used to with a 5 speed.

Some people choose to go without. Some people connect it to the brake wire. Others have found more innovative methods to connect it, using control modules to interface with the speed sensor.

I tried commecting mine to the brake wire, but I could never get it to work properly. Maybe the plug I used wasn't a perfect fit. Who knows.

Once you get used to it, it's not that bad at all. But if anyone else drives your car, they'll have a hell of a time finding reverse. It sucks when I'm out at a nice place that only has valet parking. I hate valet parking. They can't figure out how to find reverse and I always have to go get the car. My 5 speed shift knob doesn't help. Haha! If I absolutely can't avoid valet parking, I'll draw out the shift pattern with a note that reverse is past 6th gear.

One of the things you'll notice immediately when you first drive it with the new transmission is that the gearing is a little closer together. There's no longer that awkward gap between third and fourth gear because they arent geared so far apart like they are in the 5 speed.

 

[Richter888]

Thank you guys very much. Especially iupsnake. I'm glad that pretty much everything hooks up. I was just going to deal with the lockout as is for now at the moment.

I do have a mgw orange shifter.

One question though. Will I be able to drive on the factory cable setup for now? I didn't think this would be too much of a problem until o got around to it. I will look into at minimum a firewall adjuster.

I plan that this will take me a solid 3 days by myself. I have to remove my longtubes first, which requires me to drop my kmember. Sucks... I've done it a couple times already, so I hope my experience pulls me through.

 

[IUP99snake]

By the factory cable system, do you mean the factory "clutch cable" and quadrant?

Hell yea. I still have the bone stock 99 cable and quadrant and it works perfectly. No problems whatsoever. The clutch throwout fork is nearly identical to the old one, it accepts the same cable end.

For me, the T56 swap was a piece of cake. I bought the swap kit which came with a new crossmember and aluminum driveshaft. Since mine is an early 10 spline model, I didn't have to make any changes to the clutch. I was in the process of replacing the motor at the same time so I bought a new clutch and flywheel anyway, but if I was only doing the swap, it would have fit with my existing clutch.

And with the FRPP driveshaft, I didn't have to replace anything on the differential. It just slipped into the back of the transmission and bolted to the factory pinion flange on the IRS.

One other advantage the t56 has over the 5 speed is that the bellhousing bolts are on the outside of the bellhousing instead of on the inside. So, you can remove the transmission from the bellhousing without first separating the bellhousing from the engine. The two upper bolts that connect the bellhousing to the engine are really tough to reach with that huge transmission in the way, so I've found it easier to unbolt and separate the bellhousing from the transmission first, and then attack the bolts connecting the bellhousing to the motor.

One other thing you're going to notice is that this transmission is HEAVY. You might be able to drop your 5 speed by yourself and move it around easily without a jack or cart, but the 6 speed weighs a good 50 lbs more. It's no longer a one person job to raise and align the new 6 speed. Unless you've got a transmission jack, or a transmission adapter for your floor jack.

Thats pretty much about it. Love the 6 speed. Love cruising at 2100 RPM's at 80 mph in 6th gear. But I still have the factory 3.27's

Homer

 

[snakeraper11b]

By the factory cable system, do you mean the factory "clutch cable" and quadrant?

Hell yea. I still have the bone stock 99 cable and quadrant and it works perfectly. No problems whatsoever. The clutch throwout fork is nearly identical to the old one, it accepts the same cable end.

For me, the T56 swap was a piece of cake. I bought the swap kit which came with a new crossmember and aluminum driveshaft. Since mine is an early 10 spline model, I didn't have to make any changes to the clutch. I was in the process of replacing the motor at the same time so I bought a new clutch and flywheel anyway, but if I was only doing the swap, it would have fit with my existing clutch.

And with the FRPP driveshaft, I didn't have to replace anything on the differential. It just slipped into the back of the transmission and bolted to the factory pinion flange on the IRS.

One other advantage the t56 has over the 5 speed is that the bellhousing bolts are on the outside of the bellhousing instead of on the inside. So, you can remove the transmission from the bellhousing without first separating the bellhousing from the engine. The two upper bolts that connect the bellhousing to the engine are really tough to reach with that huge transmission in the way, so I've found it easier to unbolt and separate the bellhousing from the transmission first, and then attack the bolts connecting the bellhousing to the motor.

One other thing you're going to notice is that this transmission is HEAVY. You might be able to drop your 5 speed by yourself and move it around easily without a jack or cart, but the 6 speed weighs a good 50 lbs more. It's no longer a one person job to raise and align the new 6 speed. Unless you've got a transmission jack, or a transmission adapter for your floor jack.

Thats pretty much about it. Love the 6 speed. Love cruising at 2100 RPM's at 80 mph in 6th gear. But I still have the factory 3.27's

Homer

Got you beat. I'm at 1850 at 80 on the 3.27's :rockon:

 

[Richter888]

Another question.

Can I reuse the backing plate that's on my car now?

I went through to make sure I had my parts accounted for and I cant find my Ford racing TOB. Im hoping I can find it before I start tomorrow, otherwise I might have to use the Spec one....

All i gotta do now is go buy a torque wrench and a few tools I'm missing tomorrow and I'm set! Wish me luck!

 

[Kove]

By backing plate do you mean the plate between the trans and the back of the engine? If so then yes, they're the same. I personally wouldn't use the Spec TOB. A local dealer may have a FRPP one in stock.


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[Richter888]

Aaaaand another question...

How the in living hell do you reach the two top bellhousing bolts?! I'm at a standstill right now. Every single bolt has been a super huge PITA to break loose. I cant even see the driver side top bolt(gotta feel around for it). I'm pretty frustrated, so I'm calling a quits for a few hours. I spryed them down with PB blaster in hopes that it will help me, though I'm pretty sure it wont make a difference.

Is there any way to get the engine to lean back further? I removed my strut tower brace because I thought it was preventing this. Turns out that it didnt make a difference!

Please help! And thanks in advance!!

 

[01yellercobra]

Did you loosen your motor mounts? That'll give you a little more lean.

 

[IUP99snake]

You're going to have to use a long extension with a universal adapter at the end. Preferably, several smaller extensions with wobble tips to allow the whole thing to bend a little bit, and instead of a regular universal adapter, use a "CV Universal adapter" so it doesn't bind up.

Like this:

You don't have to loosen the motor mounts.

Once you have pulled off the driveshaft, support the end of the transmission with a jack. Then remove the transmission crossmember. Slowly lower the jack about an inch or two which will allow the weight of the transmission to tilt the whole engine and trans down to give you better access to those top bolts. The stock engine mounts have enough play in them. It will give you enough room on top of the transmission to use the socket instead of trying to get to the bolts from the side. But whatever you do, do not allow the transmission to be unsupported before it is unbolted from the engine, or it will put too much stress on the engine mounts.

When you install the T-56, you can bolt on the bellhousing separately so you can get to those bolts easier. Then you'll slide the transmission into the bellhousing and align the shaft with the clutch. It takes some finagling. You can then bolt the transmission to the bellhousing with as many bolts as you can access. You'll need to lower the transmission to have easier access to the top bellhousing bolts, but it's still easier to access those bellhousing bolts than it is to access the two top bolts on the engine, especially since the T-56 is larger.

 

[Richter888]

You're going to have to use a long extension with a universal adapter at the end. Preferably, several smaller extensions with wobble tips to allow the whole thing to bend a little bit, and instead of a regular universal adapter, use a "CV Universal adapter" so it doesn't bind up.

Like this:

You don't have to loosen the motor mounts.

Once you have pulled off the driveshaft, support the end of the transmission with a jack. Then remove the transmission crossmember. Slowly lower the jack about an inch or two which will allow the weight of the transmission to tilt the whole engine and trans down to give you better access to those top bolts. The stock engine mounts have enough play in them. It will give you enough room on top of the transmission to use the socket instead of trying to get to the bolts from the side. But whatever you do, do not allow the transmission to be unsupported before it is unbolted from the engine, or it will put too much stress on the engine mounts.

When you install the T-56, you can bolt on the bellhousing separately so you can get to those bolts easier. Then you'll slide the transmission into the bellhousing and align the shaft with the clutch. It takes some finagling. You can then bolt the transmission to the bellhousing with as many bolts as you can access. You'll need to lower the transmission to have easier access to the top bellhousing bolts, but it's still easier to access those bellhousing bolts than it is to access the two top bolts on the engine, especially since the T-56 is larger.

I still cant get them... I'm so frustrated at this point... I've put such a large amount of force into it that I am amazed I haven't broken a tool.

I need to buy that tool you pictured, but I have no ride right now. Probably going to have to wait until tomorrow.

Also, My engine mounts aren't factory. They are poly mounts unfortunately so I'm sure thats screwing me over right now too...

 

[99COBRA2881]

No need for that, just get 3 long extensions and put them together. Works great if youve got a buddy there to hold the socket and swivel on the bolt while you turn with a breaker bar. Simple task once you have several extensions on there.

 

[Richter888]

I have more than enough extensions(about 3ft worth). I need a helper. Im going to buy one of those tools mentioned above tomorrow.

Its the angle. Plus I cant hold the wrench and turn it at the same time... Makes me wish I had a third arm...

 

[IUP99snake]

I still cant get them... I'm so frustrated at this point... I've put such a large amount of force into it that I am amazed I haven't broken a tool.

I need to buy that tool you pictured, but I have no ride right now. Probably going to have to wait until tomorrow.

Also, My engine mounts aren't factory. They are poly mounts unfortunately so I'm sure thats screwing me over right now too...

Well, I guess you can always pull the engine mounts and tilt the engine back a little bit.

You'll probably need a helper to lift up the t56 into place anyway. Unless you've got a good jack to support and angle the transmission. The 5 speed is light enough to pull out on your own, but the t56 is a lot heavier and more cumbersome. I've done it on my own once using a cardboard box as a cradle and two floor jacks, but it's been a lot easier when someone is helping.

 

[Richter888]

Ok, so I officially hate my life. I was able to get the engine to lean back a tad to where I can get a better angle and not use a u-joint.

This us where it gets Shitty. Two people wrenching on these bolts can't get them out. We put a Shit ton of force into to. I'm truly amazed the bolt isn't stripped at all. I decided to go buy an electric impact and nothing... I need an air impact...

I don't know what else to do... These bolts are really pudding me off...

 

[01yellercobra]

Get a bigger bar. I worked on a Geo Tracker one time that had some stubborn bellhousing bolts. My Craftsman impact didn't budge them. Ended up using my 3ft breaker bar and a jack handle.

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[Richter888]

Gonna have to try that too.

I'm going to buy a torch tomorrow. Will try to carefully heat the bolts. If I can't get them out, I guess I will have to reassemble everything... Will use a buddies breaker bar again. Wish me luck again?