Sway bar questions...

[PistolWhip]

So here it is. My current suspension set up is pretty basic lowered, street/strip/comfort mix: Eibach Pro-kit, D-specs, J&M Extreme joint lowers, adjustable upper and panhard, C/C plates, Shelby upper bracket and Steeda panhard brace.
I don't road race or open track my car and don't plan to, it's just not my thing. My car is a fair weather driver that gets put into the occasional hard turn, but mostly is a fun driver that will see a few days a year at the drag strip. I also have a few clunks and squeaks that I've been hearing and can't seem to track down. I've re-torqued everything, lubed, greased, etc and can't seem to get rid of it. In talking to a couple people about it, I was told that it could be from the factory sway bar and mounting hardware. Does that sound likely? And if so, would it be beneficial to just replace the links and bushings or is that just a waste of time without the bar?

Lastly, what are the stock sizes of the GT500 sway bars?

So what say you sir cause I'm straight up sway bar dumb...:lol1: In my muscle cars, they were the first thing to go to save weight and promote transfer.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

So here it is. My current suspension set up is pretty basic lowered, street/strip/comfort mix: Eibach Pro-kit, D-specs, J&M Extreme joint lowers, adjustable upper and panhard, C/C plates, Shelby upper bracket and Steeda panhard brace.
I don't road race or open track my car and don't plan to, it's just not my thing. My car is a fair weather driver that gets put into the occasional hard turn, but mostly is a fun driver that will see a few days a year at the drag strip. I also have a few clunks and squeaks that I've been hearing and can't seem to track down. I've re-torqued everything, lubed, greased, etc and can't seem to get rid of it. In talking to a couple people about it, I was told that it could be from the factory sway bar and mounting hardware. Does that sound likely? And if so, would it be beneficial to just replace the links and bushings or is that just a waste of time without the bar?

Lastly, what are the stock sizes of the GT500 sway bars?

So what say you sir cause I'm straight up sway bar dumb...:lol1: In my muscle cars, they were the first thing to go to save weight and promote transfer.

The OEM Sway bars are larger than the other Mustangs. I don't know that I am buying in on the sway bars creaking and popping. That honestly sounds to me like you end links could have loosened. I would take off the top and bottom end links and apply Red Loctite to the threads and see if that eliminates the creaking and popping. That has worked on other customer cars.

Aftermarket sway bars and end links can help to promote better chassis rigidity but unless you are going to be doing some serious auto cross or road course duty it might be overkill. On the other hand, if the event the creaking and popping is coming from the sway bar there are adjustable sway bars on the market from BMR. Front OEM is 34 MM in Diameter. BMR and Steeda both offer a 3 way adjustable front tubular sway bar with prothane bushings. I don't sell Steeda products however I do sell BMR and I like their quality and customer support and service over any other manufacturer. The same holds true for the Rear sway bar which is adjustable as well and a slightly larger diameter (About 1mm, 22mm on BMR sway bar). The bushings have grease fittings so you can grease the bushings from time to time and eliminate the potential creaking from those locations.

BMR Sway Bar Kit W/ Bushings And Billet Links, Rear, Solid 22mm (2005-2011) - Revan Racing, Inc.

BMR Sway Bar Kit, Front, Hollow 35mm, 3-hole Adjustable (2005-2011) - Revan Racing, Inc.

Thanks for the inquiry and great questions Pistolwhip!

Van

 

[PistolWhip]

Outstanding, thank you! I'm gonna try retightening the fasteners for now and see if the works. I'll be in touch about some other things I need soon.