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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech" data-source="post: 14915337" data-attributes="member: 124691"><p>I like combos like yours to launch in the 4500RPM range, with just a little bit of wheel speed.</p><p></p><p>My suggestion for you is to </p><p></p><p>-Strange Struts in the 2-3 click range clockwise, from full soft.</p><p>-Viking Shocks in the 5C / 9R range. </p><p>-Tires at 13.5 - 14 PSI cold, pre-burnout</p><p></p><p>There is not a magical setting. I only provide base settings from my experiences with many combinations (I have direct personal experience with your combo) - BUT the most important thing is take notes on every pass, and find a pattern. This is one reason I like a 2-step, to help with finding that pattern. Too often, people just give up on experimenting and launch at say, 2K rpm. The proper way to do it is to push the limits, and make the car work above and beyond what your settling for. So for example in your case, if the car "works" at 2K rpm, but does not perform to your liking....you need to be making passes at higher RPM and finding what will improve your times in those scenarios. This, again, is why I like the 2-steps. Set it at 3500 and make your adjustments until you get it to work. Then 4K...repeat....etc etc.</p><p></p><p>In your case, the settings you have provided are too low. Honestly, anything under 6 or so on C/R basically removes the benefit of having such a good rear shock - a $90 Strange Shock would work just as well.</p><p></p><p>Stick shift cars hit the tires harder, so naturally, you will run stiffer settings to help control the "hit" to the tires.</p><p></p><p>Now back to your car. If this new setting I told you works initially, then unloads.....repeat the run and add a click to the front struts (you DO NOT want the front to come up "too" quickly, because it disrupts the rear)</p><p></p><p>If the car blows the tires off initially....immediately on the hit, raise the Rebound up a little on the rear shocks. You are using the lowest position on the RLCA Brackets, so there is two ways to approach it. First, you can go LOW on the Rebound to let the suspension hit the tires hard (usually better for Autos) or you can go HIGH on the Rebound, to apply a hard but steadier, more controlled hit to the tires (usually better for stick cars....or high RPM Trans Brakes)</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech, post: 14915337, member: 124691"] I like combos like yours to launch in the 4500RPM range, with just a little bit of wheel speed. My suggestion for you is to -Strange Struts in the 2-3 click range clockwise, from full soft. -Viking Shocks in the 5C / 9R range. -Tires at 13.5 - 14 PSI cold, pre-burnout There is not a magical setting. I only provide base settings from my experiences with many combinations (I have direct personal experience with your combo) - BUT the most important thing is take notes on every pass, and find a pattern. This is one reason I like a 2-step, to help with finding that pattern. Too often, people just give up on experimenting and launch at say, 2K rpm. The proper way to do it is to push the limits, and make the car work above and beyond what your settling for. So for example in your case, if the car "works" at 2K rpm, but does not perform to your liking....you need to be making passes at higher RPM and finding what will improve your times in those scenarios. This, again, is why I like the 2-steps. Set it at 3500 and make your adjustments until you get it to work. Then 4K...repeat....etc etc. In your case, the settings you have provided are too low. Honestly, anything under 6 or so on C/R basically removes the benefit of having such a good rear shock - a $90 Strange Shock would work just as well. Stick shift cars hit the tires harder, so naturally, you will run stiffer settings to help control the "hit" to the tires. Now back to your car. If this new setting I told you works initially, then unloads.....repeat the run and add a click to the front struts (you DO NOT want the front to come up "too" quickly, because it disrupts the rear) If the car blows the tires off initially....immediately on the hit, raise the Rebound up a little on the rear shocks. You are using the lowest position on the RLCA Brackets, so there is two ways to approach it. First, you can go LOW on the Rebound to let the suspension hit the tires hard (usually better for Autos) or you can go HIGH on the Rebound, to apply a hard but steadier, more controlled hit to the tires (usually better for stick cars....or high RPM Trans Brakes) Hope this helps! [/QUOTE]
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Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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