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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech" data-source="post: 14836538" data-attributes="member: 124691"><p>First and foremost, the strut and shock settings are hurting you. I know you said I recommended them, but there must have been some confusion. I never recommend those settings you are running, for track. Those are exactly the settings I recommend for the street, like exactly.</p><p></p><p>Typically, from my experiences, the Strange Struts work the best between 0 and 3. Yes, this promotes the front to come up.</p><p></p><p>On the rear, I typically always recommend people start off in the 4-7C / 7-11R range if they are not taking advantage of the AS the parts give them. If they run a little more AS, I like to start them off in the 9-11C / 4-7R range.</p><p></p><p>Here is how I like to start them off, and why. The higher the C, the harder it is to compress. The higher the R, the harder it is to extend.</p><p></p><p>So that said, if you have a car that squats....than there are two approaches to take. 1st is, stiffen the C to reduce the squat and adjust R according. 2nd is, concentrate on the R to keep the car from coming up to quick and unloading. If you look at most shock instructions, they will tell you to start at like 4C/12R for a drag car. Well, the problem is, the average drag racer has a car that squats like crazy....so those settings will help keep the car "down" and not remove load to the tire when going from C to R. The approach I take to start, is "adjust for the opposite" - so, if the car squats, concentrate on the Rebound so the car doesn't unload. Think of the saying, "what goes up must come down"....and remember, if a car squats, it has to come up. If it rises (alot of AS) then it has to come down. Many times with a lot of AS, you will see a car bite REALLY hard on the hit, then unload and spin the tires when the car falls.</p><p></p><p>So that said, try the settings I said and lets go from there. Some stick cars like alot of AS, some don't. The good news is, you have good dampers out back to dial it in....and you have a bias ply tire, so a stick and bias ply can get away with more AS.</p><p></p><p>Oh and lastly....the reason I like to soften up the front when adding AS on a stick car is because if the front doesnt come up quickly, the car will just spin the tires with more AS. Think of it like a seesaw. If the back rises on the hit, it tries forcing the front down - then we run into the "what goes up must come down" vice versa.... The goal I have for stick cars on a bias ply is for the back to come up and the front to come up - keeping the car more "parallel".</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Good stuff! </p><p></p><p>On that set-up I like to go about 50% stiff up front, and about 25% stiff out back, for street use. Try it out and let me know how you like it. Alot of my customers will do like 25% stiff up front, and full loose out back. I think it's too jittery like that, personally.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech, post: 14836538, member: 124691"] First and foremost, the strut and shock settings are hurting you. I know you said I recommended them, but there must have been some confusion. I never recommend those settings you are running, for track. Those are exactly the settings I recommend for the street, like exactly. Typically, from my experiences, the Strange Struts work the best between 0 and 3. Yes, this promotes the front to come up. On the rear, I typically always recommend people start off in the 4-7C / 7-11R range if they are not taking advantage of the AS the parts give them. If they run a little more AS, I like to start them off in the 9-11C / 4-7R range. Here is how I like to start them off, and why. The higher the C, the harder it is to compress. The higher the R, the harder it is to extend. So that said, if you have a car that squats....than there are two approaches to take. 1st is, stiffen the C to reduce the squat and adjust R according. 2nd is, concentrate on the R to keep the car from coming up to quick and unloading. If you look at most shock instructions, they will tell you to start at like 4C/12R for a drag car. Well, the problem is, the average drag racer has a car that squats like crazy....so those settings will help keep the car "down" and not remove load to the tire when going from C to R. The approach I take to start, is "adjust for the opposite" - so, if the car squats, concentrate on the Rebound so the car doesn't unload. Think of the saying, "what goes up must come down"....and remember, if a car squats, it has to come up. If it rises (alot of AS) then it has to come down. Many times with a lot of AS, you will see a car bite REALLY hard on the hit, then unload and spin the tires when the car falls. So that said, try the settings I said and lets go from there. Some stick cars like alot of AS, some don't. The good news is, you have good dampers out back to dial it in....and you have a bias ply tire, so a stick and bias ply can get away with more AS. Oh and lastly....the reason I like to soften up the front when adding AS on a stick car is because if the front doesnt come up quickly, the car will just spin the tires with more AS. Think of it like a seesaw. If the back rises on the hit, it tries forcing the front down - then we run into the "what goes up must come down" vice versa.... The goal I have for stick cars on a bias ply is for the back to come up and the front to come up - keeping the car more "parallel". Good stuff! On that set-up I like to go about 50% stiff up front, and about 25% stiff out back, for street use. Try it out and let me know how you like it. Alot of my customers will do like 25% stiff up front, and full loose out back. I think it's too jittery like that, personally. [/QUOTE]
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Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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