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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech" data-source="post: 14289910" data-attributes="member: 124691"><p><strong>Box VS Round Tube:</strong></p><p></p><p>I don't really want to get into the super specifics here, but I will shed some light on why we like the box tube material.</p><p></p><p>Mass for Mass, Weight for weight, technically, the round tubing is stronger. That said, with the S197 LCA....the boxed tubing we use, is definitely stronger on paper than round tubing (or, most round tube offerings)</p><p></p><p>The primary reason that we use the box, is to ensure we can get a clean full "wrap" around the bushing end.</p><p></p><p>The weakest way to design a load bearing bushing end/pivot point, is to join the bushing end with a small tube. This is the reason our adjustable UCA have those massive adjusters, instead of welding a threaded rod to the bushing end.</p><p></p><p><strong>Adjustable VS Non-Adjustable:</strong></p><p></p><p>Most of my customers do just fine with non-adjustable LCA. Adjustment comes in handy when you want to "perfect" your rear suspension geometry, in terms of alignment. For example, if you install non-adjustable LCA, and have a thrust angle of say .10 to .25 (somewhat common)....it is within "spec", which is -.50 to .50.....but it is not perfect. You CAN dial it in to zero, but it takes some serious manipulation of the rear suspension. Much harder than just adjusting a LCA to hit the spec.</p><p></p><p>Often times, you can get your thrust angle zeroed out with the panhard bar adjustment, BUT....I'd rather the axle be centered within the rear chassis, THEN adjust thrust angle via LCA. Now, too much of anything is bad...so if you have to adjust one LCA more than 1/4" or so different than the other, then you will want to start looking into modifying or manipulating the mounting points of the LCA, etc.</p><p></p><p>The other benefit to adjustable LCA is the ability to alter wheel base. In handling applications, slightly short wheel bases can be beneficial for throwing the car around aggressively, longer wheel bases can be optimal when road coursing, with not much aggressive maneuvers. Lengthening the wheelbase increases stability, per say.</p><p></p><p>In drag racing, longer wheel base is always better.</p><p></p><p>Other adjustments can be beneifical, when speaking of wheel base. For example, if someone likes to run SERIOUS anti-squat....OR, serious squatting.....the wheels/tires actually come forward on launch, which will enable the tire to hit the fenders. <strong>I see this A LOT.</strong> The rear axle is on an arc. The more suspension travel, the more the wheels move forward.</p><p></p><p>The best LCA we offer, happen to be the adjustable. Simply because bearings work better for EVERYTHING (except NVH) than poly. So, in other words, the best performing LCA we offer is a fully adjustable set with bearing ends. Not necessarily the best because adjustable, but, the best; because racecar.</p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Lowered Car with LCA / LCA Relocation Brackets:</strong></p><p></p><p>I have definitely touched on this earlier, but my recommendation for a lowered car is to get our UCA Mount that has an upper hole specifically engineered for a lowered S197 that uses LCA Brackets. Install the LCA Brackets into the Middle hole to start, then figure out which of the 3 positions works best. Most times, it is the middle.</p><p></p><p>In terms of adjustability for these LCA, on a lowered car and relocation brackets.....it isn't necessarily needed, but the more adjustability the better. I cannot promise each and every customer, out of tens of thousands, that their "specs" will be dead nuts OEM with these modifications, so adjustable LCA are definitely worth having. 9 times out of 10, I just recommend our good ole non-adjustable poly bushed LCA though.</p><p></p><p><strong>Future BMR Spring options / availability:</strong></p><p></p><p>They are not available yet. Springs are somewhat complicated, from start to finish in terms of releasing them to the public. You will definitely know when they are available. </p><p></p><p>The drops are all going to be in the 1.5" range. This is the height that we feel the S197 should be at, and is also the height we engineer our components around. Drag, looks, handling.....we prefer the 27.25" to 28" fender heights for all of it. Of course, results may vary based on tire heights, etc.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech, post: 14289910, member: 124691"] [B]Box VS Round Tube:[/B] I don't really want to get into the super specifics here, but I will shed some light on why we like the box tube material. Mass for Mass, Weight for weight, technically, the round tubing is stronger. That said, with the S197 LCA....the boxed tubing we use, is definitely stronger on paper than round tubing (or, most round tube offerings) The primary reason that we use the box, is to ensure we can get a clean full "wrap" around the bushing end. The weakest way to design a load bearing bushing end/pivot point, is to join the bushing end with a small tube. This is the reason our adjustable UCA have those massive adjusters, instead of welding a threaded rod to the bushing end. [B]Adjustable VS Non-Adjustable:[/B] Most of my customers do just fine with non-adjustable LCA. Adjustment comes in handy when you want to "perfect" your rear suspension geometry, in terms of alignment. For example, if you install non-adjustable LCA, and have a thrust angle of say .10 to .25 (somewhat common)....it is within "spec", which is -.50 to .50.....but it is not perfect. You CAN dial it in to zero, but it takes some serious manipulation of the rear suspension. Much harder than just adjusting a LCA to hit the spec. Often times, you can get your thrust angle zeroed out with the panhard bar adjustment, BUT....I'd rather the axle be centered within the rear chassis, THEN adjust thrust angle via LCA. Now, too much of anything is bad...so if you have to adjust one LCA more than 1/4" or so different than the other, then you will want to start looking into modifying or manipulating the mounting points of the LCA, etc. The other benefit to adjustable LCA is the ability to alter wheel base. In handling applications, slightly short wheel bases can be beneficial for throwing the car around aggressively, longer wheel bases can be optimal when road coursing, with not much aggressive maneuvers. Lengthening the wheelbase increases stability, per say. In drag racing, longer wheel base is always better. Other adjustments can be beneifical, when speaking of wheel base. For example, if someone likes to run SERIOUS anti-squat....OR, serious squatting.....the wheels/tires actually come forward on launch, which will enable the tire to hit the fenders. [B]I see this A LOT.[/B] The rear axle is on an arc. The more suspension travel, the more the wheels move forward. The best LCA we offer, happen to be the adjustable. Simply because bearings work better for EVERYTHING (except NVH) than poly. So, in other words, the best performing LCA we offer is a fully adjustable set with bearing ends. Not necessarily the best because adjustable, but, the best; because racecar. [B] Lowered Car with LCA / LCA Relocation Brackets:[/B] I have definitely touched on this earlier, but my recommendation for a lowered car is to get our UCA Mount that has an upper hole specifically engineered for a lowered S197 that uses LCA Brackets. Install the LCA Brackets into the Middle hole to start, then figure out which of the 3 positions works best. Most times, it is the middle. In terms of adjustability for these LCA, on a lowered car and relocation brackets.....it isn't necessarily needed, but the more adjustability the better. I cannot promise each and every customer, out of tens of thousands, that their "specs" will be dead nuts OEM with these modifications, so adjustable LCA are definitely worth having. 9 times out of 10, I just recommend our good ole non-adjustable poly bushed LCA though. [B]Future BMR Spring options / availability:[/B] They are not available yet. Springs are somewhat complicated, from start to finish in terms of releasing them to the public. You will definitely know when they are available. The drops are all going to be in the 1.5" range. This is the height that we feel the S197 should be at, and is also the height we engineer our components around. Drag, looks, handling.....we prefer the 27.25" to 28" fender heights for all of it. Of course, results may vary based on tire heights, etc. [/QUOTE]
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Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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