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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech" data-source="post: 13818172" data-attributes="member: 124691"><p>Ah! I figured out who you are now. The parts are on the way! Or....should be there any time? Post pics of them! </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I can't wait either. I expect a phone call explaining how badass the car works. :beer:</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It is in testing now. Should be soon. We are working hard at releasing a few sweet components. Trust me, we want them available sooner than anyone!</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>"Need"....not necessarily. You will want them though. I wouldn't drop my car over 3/4" and not use them, they are my favorite part we manufacture. :rockon:</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>No. I recommend seeing what your thrust angle is, before purchasing LCA. If it is outside of the range of -.2 to .2....I highly suggest grabbing them.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Unfortunately, the BMR loop does not agree with the location that ARH chooses to place their 02 sensors. I have asked them to move the bungs, but they said it is not as easy as it sounds. I have heard they may just offer their own loop? The only way the BMR loop works with the ARH's...to my knowledge, is, if you flip the ARH X-Pipe around. I know people do it.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The UCA bolts need to be loosened and retightened with the car on it's wheels, as level as possible. Drive-on lift is the best and easiest way. You can also make some stacked wood/blocks and put the car on them, thats how I do it, when I don't use the lift here at the shop.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The Steeda diff bearing, paired with our massive poly UCA (UTCA032) is actually one of my favorite UCA combinations, for all around use. That said, the bearing in the diff, can and will cause havoc to a poly UCA bushing.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Never heard of GT500 mounts dropping the car. I guess I could measure some, I have them here. </p><p></p><p>The only thing I have seen consistently drop the front of an S197, are the Koni struts. Not sure if it is in their design, or just ironic. IMO, a Koni strut will cause about .250 to .500" drop, additionally. </p><p></p><p>Strange makes a 2011+ Specific Strut, so I have heard. I like the GT500/Strange combo myself.....but, if you are worried about ride-height issues...it would be safe to just get 2011+ Specific stuff. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I tend to agree. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>If it is stock ride-height, and you don't plan on lowering it, you will want to grab the UCA and UCA Mount....and install the UCA in the lowest position. You will enjoy it, I promise. :burnout:</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>No need for Panhard relo.</p><p></p><p>You want these:</p><p></p><p>TCA019</p><p>CAB005</p><p>UTCA032</p><p>UCM002</p><p>PHR006</p><p></p><p>That will do wonders, both in results and the feeling you get when pushing the car hard. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>You are quite welcome.</p><p></p><p>As for the "skip" - a Watts Link is ultimately the best way around it...if just comparing the PHR to the Watts. That is why we are working on a Watts to hopefully release for 2014.</p><p></p><p>You can also use softer compound tires, some adjustable struts/shocks and a slightly stiffer rear spring to help alleviate it, but it may not work 100%.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>You can set your pinion angle on a slope....and it should "work"....just ensure the tires are loaded up into the car. If you cannot do that, you need to set the pinion angle on a drive-on lift.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>:rockon: Veddy Nice.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Koni Yellows is your answer.</p><p></p><p>Why? Because they are designed for people like you. They have aggressive compression, and "can" be very aggressive on Rebound, when adjusting. The Koni Yellows are my favorite strut/shock combo for someone looking for more stiffness and increased handling, without going coilovers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech, post: 13818172, member: 124691"] Ah! I figured out who you are now. The parts are on the way! Or....should be there any time? Post pics of them! I can't wait either. I expect a phone call explaining how badass the car works. :beer: It is in testing now. Should be soon. We are working hard at releasing a few sweet components. Trust me, we want them available sooner than anyone! "Need"....not necessarily. You will want them though. I wouldn't drop my car over 3/4" and not use them, they are my favorite part we manufacture. :rockon: No. I recommend seeing what your thrust angle is, before purchasing LCA. If it is outside of the range of -.2 to .2....I highly suggest grabbing them. Unfortunately, the BMR loop does not agree with the location that ARH chooses to place their 02 sensors. I have asked them to move the bungs, but they said it is not as easy as it sounds. I have heard they may just offer their own loop? The only way the BMR loop works with the ARH's...to my knowledge, is, if you flip the ARH X-Pipe around. I know people do it. The UCA bolts need to be loosened and retightened with the car on it's wheels, as level as possible. Drive-on lift is the best and easiest way. You can also make some stacked wood/blocks and put the car on them, thats how I do it, when I don't use the lift here at the shop. The Steeda diff bearing, paired with our massive poly UCA (UTCA032) is actually one of my favorite UCA combinations, for all around use. That said, the bearing in the diff, can and will cause havoc to a poly UCA bushing. Never heard of GT500 mounts dropping the car. I guess I could measure some, I have them here. The only thing I have seen consistently drop the front of an S197, are the Koni struts. Not sure if it is in their design, or just ironic. IMO, a Koni strut will cause about .250 to .500" drop, additionally. Strange makes a 2011+ Specific Strut, so I have heard. I like the GT500/Strange combo myself.....but, if you are worried about ride-height issues...it would be safe to just get 2011+ Specific stuff. I tend to agree. If it is stock ride-height, and you don't plan on lowering it, you will want to grab the UCA and UCA Mount....and install the UCA in the lowest position. You will enjoy it, I promise. :burnout: No need for Panhard relo. You want these: TCA019 CAB005 UTCA032 UCM002 PHR006 That will do wonders, both in results and the feeling you get when pushing the car hard. You are quite welcome. As for the "skip" - a Watts Link is ultimately the best way around it...if just comparing the PHR to the Watts. That is why we are working on a Watts to hopefully release for 2014. You can also use softer compound tires, some adjustable struts/shocks and a slightly stiffer rear spring to help alleviate it, but it may not work 100%. You can set your pinion angle on a slope....and it should "work"....just ensure the tires are loaded up into the car. If you cannot do that, you need to set the pinion angle on a drive-on lift. :rockon: Veddy Nice. Koni Yellows is your answer. Why? Because they are designed for people like you. They have aggressive compression, and "can" be very aggressive on Rebound, when adjusting. The Koni Yellows are my favorite strut/shock combo for someone looking for more stiffness and increased handling, without going coilovers. [/QUOTE]
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Suspension Tech: Bring It!
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