What's your fuel pump duty cycle % at WOT? your supporting 466 with the stock 110lph pump and a BAP? I maxed a single Aviator which flows twice that oem pump with Bap at 480:shrug:
When I first installed my procharger, (which came with a Walbro 255 and 42LB injectors and a 90mm MAF), I let it idle in the shop for about 10 or 15 minutes to check for leaks, codes, or any other problems before I drove it and put it on the dyno.
As luck would have it, the brand new Walbro 255 pump seized up and I lost fuel pressure.... just before I was about to put it on the dyno. Thank God it happened when it did, or I would have popped the motor right on the dyno.
Being that the car wouldn't run with the bad 255 pump, I decided to put the stocker back in and run it on the dyno... (closely watching the data of course).
Testing and tuning it, the car made as much as 510 to the wheels with the stock fuel pump just to see what it would do. The 90MM Lightning MAF pegged before the stock pump ran out of steam.
Eventually, I received a replacement pump... and we dialed back the power to a more reliable 450 WHP.
I'm not saying that you should run the stock pump.. I'm just explaining what it's capable of.
With the stock internals, you'll be happy and safe in the 400-450 HP range. Have your tuner pull a little bit of extra timing in the higher RPM's as a safeguard.
Oh, and the most important things are the tune and your driving style. That will ultimately determine how long your motor will last. If you're constantly racing it, you'll have big problems sooner than you will if you only get in the boost every once in a while.
I popped a motor with stock internals after only 10,000 miles (when I first installed the blower.) However, my current motor (an aviator longblock) still runs great after 75,000 miles despite having the weakest rotating assembly and the highest compression of any modular motor. A lot of it has to do with me not being as crazy as I was before, and most of it has to do with a very conservative tune...