suggestions for my nitrous/drag set up! PLZ!

Tommy Gavagnini

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I'm building a nitrous kit and I'm using a shark fogger, super powershot solenoids, a fuel pressure switch,and I plan on spraying a 100 shot with .028 and .052 jets. I will be using a N3MB WOT box and window switch to control the nitrous. I need suggestions on what tune to run, tires/slick size, and other things. should I weld the axle tubes? What's gonna break first? What times to expect? I want to break into the 10's can I do that on my MT82?
 

Newbomb Turk

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Definitely weld the tubes, one piece driveshaft, and for my own piece of mind I put in Moser axles, I run M&H 275/45/18 on factory rims and they hook just fine with a BMR suspension. Also a must is the bottle heater.
 

nate-roth

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If you can swing it a plate will be far superior to the nozzle. You will also need to run a nitrous tune, these cars use closed loop wot fueling so the computer will try to lean out the mixture when it reads the fuel from the kit. I would think the mods you have listed, a good nitrous tune and 150 jetted plate kit would meet your goals once the driving end of it was figured out.
 

Tommy Gavagnini

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Nice thanks guys. Will a email tune work ok? I want to dead HOOK so can I get a tire that fits an 8" rim to hook hard enough to pull the tires? Will my DS break? I have heard that the plate has worse distribution and the front cylinders get more nitrous? I figured the shark would be more than enough? Plus I like the idea of completely hiding it. The stock intake has a sound muffling bubble and this would be a perfect place to hide everything. I'm basically planning on mounting the noids right inside or on the bottom of it. Pretty slick if you ask me!
 

nate-roth

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What size 8" rim? If 15" then run a slick or bias/ply e.t. street or hoosier quick time pro. How much you need to beef up the driveshaft, rear end, and suspension depends on how hard you are going to launch the car and how often. A word of caution - it gets expensive quickly to drag race heavy manual tranny cars. The automatics are far superior in this regard.
If you want to hide the nitrous in the sound tube look at the BBR Reaper kit or the JMS dry kit, both are simple dry kits and can be tuned via email and good data logging. I dont think it's going to be that easy to run a wet nozzle in the sound tube in my opinion. Lots of people have had good results with the dry kits on smaller shots up to 150. Both BBR and JMS both have stockish cars in the 10's on these kits.
 

nate-roth

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If you go dry shot many tuner don't like to tune them and your limited a lot by your injectors. You might need a bap, depending on the size shot. Also, a zex safe kit is very cheap. You'll want to pair any n20 with a window switch and bottle heater as well. http://www.amazon.com/Nitrous-82357-Safe-Shot-System/dp/B004LEXIKK

Thats why i mentioned the BBR & JMS kits, both have proven tunes and are designed to be "hidden" in the sound tube. If you want to go more than 125hp you would need larger injectors. Personally i would run a Nitrous Outlet plate hands down and have AED or BBR tune it. Ive been running nitrous cars for a long time, literally hundreds of bottles used and no offense but a Zex kit is really limited, the base kits have tiny solenoids.
 

Tommy Gavagnini

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Ok so I think im gonna use a bias ply slick. They are gonna be 15's. I am reading lots of things, but I'm not sure what's right. I want to weld the axle tubes. I have heard that I can do it with the axle mounted in the car. My friend said a few solid beads around the circumference with the axle still mounted would suffice. What do you guys think? Sounds like it would work fine? I can get this done cheap! I am gonna run a wet fogger and mount most of it under or inside the bubbled muffling part of the stock intake. I really like the plates but I can't find one for a reasonable price!! Why the hell is it 200$+ for a 1/2" piece of aluminum which is pretty much just a fancy TB spacer?! Is it really worth it?? I already have a fogger kit with everything less the fogger!
 

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