Stock 2011 looking to do some upgrades.

[Joe_Kool315]

I've been offline here for a long while as I retired from the Air Force back in March of '15 and have been floating around a pool drinking beer for a couple years. I started working again a while back and now have an itch ... and need, to replace some worn items and make a few updates.

"Need" comes in the form of brakes, my last oil change check sheet at the dealer scored them in the red! I'm looking to upgrade to the Fordracing kit or something comparable to the '13/'14 GT500s for the increased stopping power and reduced fading when hot.

Itch comes in the form of wanting to open her up a little now that I've broken the 50K mile ceiling. Before I get too deep in any power adders, I want to address the slight shifting issue I still have after having Ford in the tranny under warranty. The main scratching from 1-2 was mostly taken care of by replacing the sycros and a few other wear items in the gearbox. the tech said it looked like "something" had come loose in there and the sync was just a hair off and high RPMs made it worse. Anyway, I've read something in here about a WOT box and the MGW gen 2 shifter making a huge difference. thoughts? Also, currently my clutch is holding strong BUT ... like most '10-'12 Shelbys, the clutch doesn't release till damn near on the floor! I drove the guys '13 that I bought my '11 from and that clutch is fantastic! release about 1/3rd the way down at most and has awesome pedal feel. I was just wondering if that could be fixed on my 11 with upgrading the master/slave cylinders of if it's more in-depth of a changeover than that. I'd be game for swapping out a significant portion of the clutch assy. to '13/'14 parts or aftermarket if interchangeable to get that release point/pedal feel.

As far as engine performance, I honestly think I'd be happy with the basic Fordracing pulley & tune package ... not totally against doing one of their TVS upgrades though. Keeping a factoryesque tune, meaning not just changing the timing/fuel curve and using actual flow data #'s to keep a safe tune is very important to me. She's a daily driver and while I'd like to open her up and let her breath a bit better, I'm not looking to run on the ragged edge of detonation. I'm lucky to find 90 octane ethanol free gas locally and every now and again strike gold with some 93 but that's not very often. She hasn't seen ethanol but a hand full of times or so since June of '12!

I know this is a lot so feel free to answer in part(s) or just PM me.

 

[jenkins_1120]

I would contact VMP and tell them your goals. They will point you in the right direction. OEM brake pads with some new fluid will work just fine.


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[RBB]

MGW is a great upgrade, shifting feels much better with it and I rarely have any grind.

As for the power adders, just go TVS and forget about the pulley. As Jenkins said, contact VMP and discuss the available options. I wouldn't hesitate to have them tune the car either. As long as you're running the appropriate octane, then the tunes are pretty safe.

Nothing wrong with running E10 if that's all you can find in your area that's 93 octane. I don't know why some guys insist on only running 100% gas. There's no advantage other than a very slight increase in mileage and that's it. Put that E10 in your car and get some octane in there....it's not going to do any damage. All modern cars are made to run E10 with absolutely no problems.

 

[Joe_Kool315]

I get that modern fuel injection isn't as susceptible to the harm Ethanol does to small engines. Just when you've seen first hand what it does to any carburetor and most small engines you start to look deeper. Ethanol absorbs water and carries that water throughout the fuel system and engine; steel and iron gas tanks are prone to rust from water. It can soften and crack rubber, plastic, and fiberglass parts. Ethanol causes gas to turn to varnish more quickly, meaning less shelf life. Old ethanol gasoline clogs carburetor jets, fuel injectors, fuel injection distributors, fuel pumps, and fuel filters. Once varnished, it also sticks to intake valves and can ruin the engine. Not to mention that it has less BTU than ethanol free which = less power. It's hard to feel good about feeding it to my Shelby!

Sounds link I need to get on the horn with VMP and start making plans

 

[RBB]

I get that modern fuel injection isn't as susceptible to the harm Ethanol does to small engines. Just when you've seen first hand what it does to any carburetor and most small engines you start to look deeper. Ethanol absorbs water and carries that water throughout the fuel system and engine; steel and iron gas tanks are prone to rust from water. It can soften and crack rubber, plastic, and fiberglass parts. Ethanol causes gas to turn to varnish more quickly, meaning less shelf life. Old ethanol gasoline clogs carburetor jets, fuel injectors, fuel injection distributors, fuel pumps, and fuel filters. Once varnished, it also sticks to intake valves and can ruin the engine. Not to mention that it has less BTU than ethanol free which = less power. It's hard to feel good about feeding it to my Shelby!

Sounds link I need to get on the horn with VMP and start making plans

E10 absorbs water over time, so its a bad choice where moisture is high or use is pretty infrequent. For a daily driver, however, you've got absolutely nothing to worry about.

Check the used parts section too....there are usually a few Gen2 TVSs in there for pretty nice deals. I believe I just saw one the other day. Sell your stock blower to offset some of the cost, and enjoy the new power. A pulley and tune on the stock blower, IMO, is just not worth it. You're going to end up wanting more.

 

[Joe_Kool315]

Check the used parts section too....there are usually a few Gen2 TVSs in there for pretty nice deals. I believe I just saw one the other day. Sell your stock blower to offset some of the cost, and enjoy the new power. A pulley and tune on the stock blower, IMO, is just not worth it. You're going to end up wanting more.

Yeah, I saw the white powder coated one in there today. definitely something to think about. I've about talked myself into the TVS upgrade. first things first though ... fixing those stoppers! going fast is only good if you can stop fast ;-)

 

[RBB]

Yeah, I saw the white powder coated one in there today. definitely something to think about. I've about talked myself into the TVS upgrade. first things first though ... fixing those stoppers! going fast is only good if you can stop fast ;-)

Good move. If you're on the fence at all, just do the TVS. I think a lot of us made the initial decision to go with a CAI, pulley, and tune and ended up regretting it since just about everyone ends up with a TVS.

 

[Joe_Kool315]

IMHO, a CAI seems to be a bit pointless on these doesn't it? I'd think you'd benefit more from a larger diameter polished TB than a CAI $ to HP gain that is. Maybe I'm missing something but the stock SVT CAI seems to be set up pretty well. I did get a oilless permanent filter to replace the stock paper one.

 

[RBB]

IMHO, a CAI seems to be a bit pointless on these doesn't it? I'd think you'd benefit more from a larger diameter polished TB than a CAI $ to HP gain that is. Maybe I'm missing something but the stock SVT CAI seems to be set up pretty well. I did get a oilless permanent filter to replace the stock paper one.

That's right, the TB is more bang for your buck. The stock CAI flows pretty well.

 

[RedVenom48]

Parts are dependent on your goals.

1st standard rec is the MGW 2 shifter and fluid upgrade. I rec Redline D4 ATF. Amsoil Synth ATF and Mobil 1 ATF also work well. I had to try 3 different fluids and found Redline worked for me.

A WOT Box really is only going to help you if youre planning on AGGRESSIVELY drag racing the car semi-regularly. If you are looking for an aid on the street for semi-hard shifting, start with the MGW and trans fluid.

Funny you mention the clutch release, mine has always typically disengaged near the top. Annoying as hell as Id prefer somewhere in the middle. Someone on here was developing a race spec clutch master cylinder, but he hasnt been on in a while.

Power wise, if you have the cash go straight to the TVS. A Trinity, VMP Gen 2 or Whipple will put you on the right path. Kenne Bell blowers are good, but are known to run hot.

If you have the stock heat exchanger, upgrade that unit stat. A Dual fan, triple pass heat exchanger will make your power much more consistent. Heat soak is the #1 power robber in our cars, and it all stems from supercharger boost discharge temps. Keeping the intercooler fluid cool is CRITICAL. A TVS will aid in bringing down those temps, but the stock HE is laughable at best.

170F Thermostat will help keep engine cool as well.

VMP certainly has come a long way in tuning, even from a few years ago. Id still rec Lund Racing for all your tuning needs. Cant go wrong with either. However, Lund tunes have been more consistent, better idle quality and seem to extract the most power for ME. YMMV