Still pulling timing !

[The Swede]

Guys, i still have huge problems with my truck.
Changed the I/C pump and cleaned out both inside and outside of the I/C, both upper and a LFP lower.
Is pretty cold here now so did a log run the other day. Around 44 - 46*

At idle the intake air is around 50* and goes down to around 45* at wot.
Downstream is 115* and goes down to 92* then starts to climb up to around 107*
But my timing goes pretty much straight down to 8* stays there until i let off.

What could be my problem ? :??:
Are my downstream numbers still to high ?

I'm desperate, i'll try anything.

My plan for the winter is a "killer chiller kit"
But i doubt it will solve my problem.

 

[ASUSMC]

Those downstream temps are pretty low. The truck shouldn't be pulling timing due to those temps. Who tuned your truck? How many degrees is it supposed to be running?

 

[throttle jockey]

those downstream temps are pretty low. The truck shouldn't be pulling timing due to those temps. Who tuned your truck? How many degrees is it supposed to be running?

+1

 

[Tazman1]

How cold is it where you are at? Take the outside air temp into consideration. Just a thought.

 

[throttle jockey]

OP said its around 44-46* ambient.

 

[MMShaggy]

Timing isn't pulled till your IAT2 hit 150* or higher. Thats when the ECM starts to pull it.

Are these on WOT pulls?

Sound's like a tune issue to me...

Are you sure your I/C pump is working under load? Mine was perfect at idle, but when I would floor the truck it would eventually cut off....

 

[inuswo]

Are you talking in Fahrenheit or Celsius for the air temps?

 

[Tazman1]

Are you talking in Fahrenheit or Celsius for the air temps?

Good question.

On the other side, its running in a safe mode!

 

[EnglishAdam]

That's in Fahrenheit. Believe me, the ambient doesn't get up to 44 C in Sweden

Anders, your KB is obviously toast. I will swap you for my ported Eaton. Honestly, I'm doing you a favour oke:

Good luck getting it fixed mate. The IAT2 looks ok to me. Get the tune checked as everyone is saying.

 

[Z7What]

Differently a tuning issue. Your IAT2 isnt pulling timing, stock L's start to pull at 150+. I have my tune set up to start pulling at 130+

Wayne

 

[The Swede]

Those downstream temps are pretty low. The truck shouldn't be pulling timing due to those temps. Who tuned your truck? How many degrees is it supposed to be running?

He says it suppose to 14-15* at wot.

Timing isn't pulled till your IAT2 hit 150* or higher. Thats when the ECM starts to pull it.

Are these on WOT pulls?

Are you sure your I/C pump is working under load? Mine was perfect at idle, but when I would floor the truck it would eventually cut off....

Yes, the IAT2 temp start to go up around 4200 rpm.

I hope it works, i should try it with the switch on i guess.
Put an override switch in when i installed it, so i can put it in manually.

Are you talking in Fahrenheit or Celsius for the air temps?

Fahrenheit ! ! !

That's in Fahrenheit. Believe me, the ambient doesn't get up to 44 C in Sweden

Anders, your KB is obviously toast. I will swap you for my ported Eaton. Honestly, I'm doing you a favour oke:

Good luck getting it fixed mate. The IAT2 looks ok to me. Get the tune checked as everyone is saying.

True that !

Sure we can trade, for a small fee !

I'll try the tuner again.




Thanks guys

 

[MMShaggy]

The I/C relay located in the motor bay in front of the driverside also have been known to go bad. Look at the model numbers on the relay's, most of them are identical. you can always try switching them around as well.....

 

[The Swede]

I'll change it and see what happens !

Thanks Keith.

 

[SADF]

Not trying to hijack, but... How would I know if my I/P was not working?

 

[bgstew6]

fluid wouldnt be moving in your resevior

 

[SADF]

fluid wouldnt be moving in your resevior

Thats what I figured, thanks. How much does one cost and where can I get one just in case. Something tells me that last time I looked it wasn't. I will check when I get home to see.

 

[Tazman1]

Thats what I figured, thanks. How much does one cost and where can I get one just in case. Something tells me that last time I looked it wasn't. I will check when I get home to see.

I bought one from the guy here on the Forum. It cost me around 85.00

 

[fishingfox]

Thats what I figured, thanks. How much does one cost and where can I get one just in case. Something tells me that last time I looked it wasn't. I will check when I get home to see.

There is a delay before the I/C pump kicks in. Let the truck run for a couple of minutes and check it again. I bought a Ford Racing pump for $99 off Ebay when I thought mine was failing. The problem was in the connector. I disconnected it, sprayed it with contact cleaner and it has been fine for about 10K miles. At least I have a spare because they are known to fail.

 

[inuswo]

Are there any good setups to address the I/C pumps out there that don't cost as much as a new blower itself would? I've heard from far too many people that theirs either failed or had connection issues. My truck is too dismantled right now I think to figure out if mine quit working or not, but since a lot of the problems I'm having are a result of heat in general... I'd be willing to put money on it that the I/C could have been bad too.

 

[FordFanStan]

Anders it sounds to me like it is in your tune as well. The typical tune does not pull timing due to ect's til 150*, but that can be modified, and the entire spark tables can be modified as well. Do you datalog yourself? If you do, next time you log, start logging before you start your truck. Log temp at startup, ect, spark advance, and spark source, and let us what those are, that will give us more of an indication if it is in your tune or not.

inuswo, maybe one of these times I can get to your truck and check it with the NGS Ford tool. You can manually go in and manipulate the ECU and activate the pump, when that doesn't work you know there is a problem, one of the first things we check on a stock block blown motor truck. Also DMP sells the Mezeire pump upgrade kit which is proven to be more efficient than the stocker. FFS