Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Interior and Exterior
Stereo and upgraded battery...?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="CharlieR" data-source="post: 13234517" data-attributes="member: 140605"><p>Remember even a 220 amp alternator can only put out soo much voltage before damage to the battery will occur, and the regulators in 'em are still slow. </p><p></p><p> Voltage drop @ amp could be as simple as bad connection or wire that has too much resistance(too small, not tight(heat). Replacing Alternator to fix issue with power/wire to amp may be a waste of time. Check voltage @ battery and amp/distribution block. Playing loudish and just on. If issue is w/alternator and not wiring to amp voltage will both be close(.1-.2 volts different @ most). If power @ amp is more than slightly lower that battery voltage the issue is "power wire" related. I have 2 gauge wire run to my distribution block, my amps draw 130 amps max unclipped. My voltage @ battery and distribution block are virtually identical. The voltage runs as high as 14.1, typically closer to 13.7 and has dropped as low as 12.9(still charging battery which is what it's made to do). @ <150 amps 4gauge wire is accepted as o.k. but so many wires are made with big plastic insulation but small actual wiring in it. Check and double check wiring and wire, you should be able to maintain voltage about = to mine provided all is good.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CharlieR, post: 13234517, member: 140605"] Remember even a 220 amp alternator can only put out soo much voltage before damage to the battery will occur, and the regulators in 'em are still slow. Voltage drop @ amp could be as simple as bad connection or wire that has too much resistance(too small, not tight(heat). Replacing Alternator to fix issue with power/wire to amp may be a waste of time. Check voltage @ battery and amp/distribution block. Playing loudish and just on. If issue is w/alternator and not wiring to amp voltage will both be close(.1-.2 volts different @ most). If power @ amp is more than slightly lower that battery voltage the issue is "power wire" related. I have 2 gauge wire run to my distribution block, my amps draw 130 amps max unclipped. My voltage @ battery and distribution block are virtually identical. The voltage runs as high as 14.1, typically closer to 13.7 and has dropped as low as 12.9(still charging battery which is what it's made to do). @ <150 amps 4gauge wire is accepted as o.k. but so many wires are made with big plastic insulation but small actual wiring in it. Check and double check wiring and wire, you should be able to maintain voltage about = to mine provided all is good. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Interior and Exterior
Stereo and upgraded battery...?
Top