Stereo and upgraded battery...?

[RioRed4v]

I have an aftermarket stereo and I've noticed some dimming at night so I'm considering changing the factory battery for a better one.

Just curious what batteries you guys are using?

Thanks!

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Upgrading the battery is not going to correct the issue. You will need an alternator that can provide more current flow.

Also, upgrade the ground wire sizing between the negative terminal of the battery and the body of the car.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

do the "Big 3 Upgrade" first and the alternator.

 

[RioRed4v]

Yea, it only seemed like a minor voltage drop that a battery might cure. I was having a hard time finding a good battery calling around to different stores so I posted here.

Once i got home though I decided to check the voltage with my DMM, and it was dipping as low as 12.2v and that wasn't even full volume/gain, so I could see it potentially going under that if I'm not careful.

I'll be looking for a new alternator first.

 

[Locotone07]

do the "Big 3 Upgrade" first and the alternator.

Please explain further...what is the big 3 upgrade?

 

[YukonRally]

Please explain further...what is the big 3 upgrade?

Check this out: How to upgrade the Big Three

 

[kingnut]

even a high current alternator is gonna allow the lights to dim when your sitting at a stop light. a voltage regulator would be a true fix. but i doubt its that big of a problem.

 

[Attaus]

even a high current alternator is gonna allow the lights to dim when your sitting at a stop light. a voltage regulator would be a true fix. but i doubt its that big of a problem.

This

Alternators by nature don't push much at idle, so a good alternator will regulate regardless of output.

If the lights dim I'm hoping you mean you have a decent sized sub.. I don't think a factory upgrade would draw that much. If it's a big deal I would look into a capacitor.

 

[ForgotMyUsrname]

do the "Big 3 Upgrade" first and the alternator.

I'm still convinced doing the big 3 is advantageous on stock cars.

 

[CharlieR]

Upgrade the ground wire from the battery to the chassis if you haven't already(it's just too small). I personally don't do "the big 3" unless changing the alternator. Your issue is not with your alt.(it's a 130 amp) it is an issue with the slow responce of your regulator to the demands of music. If you were to run a white noise signal through it would demand power long enough for the regulator to "catch up". For reference, I'm running about 1400 watts rms have some dimming but voltage drop is not a full volt. The best way to stop dimming is to add hid lights(their balast acts as a regulator) or add a regulator to your lights.(old 80's show/competition trick )

 

[03cobra#2]

When my alternator went south I upgraded that, and ran 0 gauge to the alternator and for the chassis ground. I figured while I'm at it I'll run 0 gauge to the trunk and install a fuse block there.....that way my KB BAP gets plenty of juice and I'm ready for a nice stereo.

Also upgrading to a better / bigger battery will help as long as you have a good enough alternator. I choose to run a Optima Red Top in mine. Optima yellow top and interstate batteries are good too.

 

[Pred_mech]

My system would flash real bad. I upgraded to a yellow top and bought better subs so I could turn my gain down a little bit. I would say my flashing is pretty much gone unless I put my system on "defecate yourself". I'm running a Pioneer DSP5000 amp pushing 2 Kicker 12W7s.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-2014-mustangs-354/919306-optima-yellow-top.html

It looks better now.

 

[RioRed4v]

even a high current alternator is gonna allow the lights to dim when your sitting at a stop light. a voltage regulator would be a true fix. but i doubt its that big of a problem.

Yea, I agree. I dont think it will solve the dimming at idle, but driving around I would think it would. I had read the stock alternator was 110amps, but I guess it might be 130amp. The one I was looking to upgrade to would be 240amps. My amp at full power would draw 120amps according to the manufacturer. I would think the alternator would be a worthwhile upgrade..?

Upgrade the ground wire from the battery to the chassis if you haven't already(it's just too small). I personally don't do "the big 3" unless changing the alternator. Your issue is not with your alt.(it's a 130 amp) it is an issue with the slow responce of your regulator to the demands of music. If you were to run a white noise signal through it would demand power long enough for the regulator to "catch up". For reference, I'm running about 1400 watts rms have some dimming but voltage drop is not a full volt. The best way to stop dimming is to add hid lights(their balast acts as a regulator) or add a regulator to your lights.(old 80's show/competition trick )

Yea, i'll be upgrading that one. The alternator I was looking in to would also come with an upgraded ground & power wire to run to the battery, so that would take care 2 out of the 3. After seeing the voltage drop at the amp, and not even at full volume, it just seems like an alternator would be necessary.

 

[CharlieR]

Remember even a 220 amp alternator can only put out soo much voltage before damage to the battery will occur, and the regulators in 'em are still slow.

Voltage drop @ amp could be as simple as bad connection or wire that has too much resistance(too small, not tight(heat). Replacing Alternator to fix issue with power/wire to amp may be a waste of time. Check voltage @ battery and amp/distribution block. Playing loudish and just on. If issue is w/alternator and not wiring to amp voltage will both be close(.1-.2 volts different @ most). If power @ amp is more than slightly lower that battery voltage the issue is "power wire" related. I have 2 gauge wire run to my distribution block, my amps draw 130 amps max unclipped. My voltage @ battery and distribution block are virtually identical. The voltage runs as high as 14.1, typically closer to 13.7 and has dropped as low as 12.9(still charging battery which is what it's made to do). @ <150 amps 4gauge wire is accepted as o.k. but so many wires are made with big plastic insulation but small actual wiring in it. Check and double check wiring and wire, you should be able to maintain voltage about = to mine provided all is good.

 

[RioRed4v]

Remember even a 220 amp alternator can only put out soo much voltage before damage to the battery will occur, and the regulators in 'em are still slow.

Voltage drop @ amp could be as simple as bad connection or wire that has too much resistance(too small, not tight(heat). Replacing Alternator to fix issue with power/wire to amp may be a waste of time. Check voltage @ battery and amp/distribution block. Playing loudish and just on. If issue is w/alternator and not wiring to amp voltage will both be close(.1-.2 volts different @ most). If power @ amp is more than slightly lower that battery voltage the issue is "power wire" related. I have 2 gauge wire run to my distribution block, my amps draw 130 amps max unclipped. My voltage @ battery and distribution block are virtually identical. The voltage runs as high as 14.1, typically closer to 13.7 and has dropped as low as 12.9(still charging battery which is what it's made to do). @ <150 amps 4gauge wire is accepted as o.k. but so many wires are made with big plastic insulation but small actual wiring in it. Check and double check wiring and wire, you should be able to maintain voltage about = to mine provided all is good.

I'm running 0/1 gauge to the back to the a dist block, and then 4 gauge out of the dist block to the amp (since the amp doesnt accept 0/1). When I was looking at voltage, I was getting right about 14 amps at the battery, and nearly the same at the amp. Once the amp/volume was turned up was when I was seeing voltage drop down as low as 12.2 at 3/4 volume.:shrug:

 

[CharlieR]

Wonder if: 1. Ford has different alternators or 2. If yours may be "weak" and replaceable under warranty. :shrug:

 

[RioRed4v]

Wonder if: 1. Ford has different alternators or 2. If yours may be "weak" and replaceable under warranty. :shrug:

Yea, i have no idea. I doubt I can go in to ford and say my aftermarket stereo isn't getting enough juice, please replace my alternator:lol1:

Aside from alternator, I'm really not sure what else would help/cure the issue.

 

[blackcoyote13]

Where can you get the upgraded cables at and what gauge is needed for the Big 3 upgrade?

 

[RioRed4v]

You can buy the cables pretty much wherever. Either through car audio vendors or through a welding supply shop. I would go with either 2 or 0/1 gauge for the upgrade.





Went out to do more testing, and it looks like holding the alternator at 2k rpm's and going back up to around 3/4 volume I was still seeing it drop to around high 12's at the battery and .1-.2 less at the amp.

 

[CharlieR]

High 12's is maintaining/charging the battery. .1-.2 volts is normal as it's 15-17 feet of wire to amp and it comes from the battery not the alternator.

If the dimming really bothers you(it isn't hurting anything as long as you're not sitting listening for extended periods) then you'll need a fast acting, adjustable regulator without a doubt and possibly an alternator. Keep voltage under 14.5 because it'll cook the battery. I wouldn't mess with it myself, But remember HID lights don't dim.