... (And yes, I have researched all these topics on/off for years). I have been running one of Stefan's TB and adapter/plenum on my Posi ported 03 for years. The performance and gains are real, I want to make this very clear. After 2/3 years (?) I had to ship the TB back to Stefan due to a vacuum leak I found in the bearings in the throttle shaft (which I believe was my fault when last time I had it off the car I hosed it out with brake cleaner to give it a clean up). I believe I dried the bearing seals up, and or washed the grease out of the shaft bearings.
I've heard some mention that people had/having a hard time getting ahold of Stefan. He answered the phone EVERYTIME I called, 1st time. He has a memory like a elephant (forgets nothing). Extremely helpful, polite, and intelligent guy. Anyhow, had to ship TB back and fourth 2/3 times to get things sorted ... End result is factory driveability and behavior. .... Except for one minor issue on this last fix. I have a bit of a sticking issue after I let off gas and begin to tip in. It IS vacuum causing the sticking, turn the car immediately off and it's fine (so I'm 100% it's vacuum related). Now, anyone running one of these knows the throttle cable needs "modified" ... I used a small piece of rubber hose and zip ties. I'm wondering of something more "solid" then the rubber hose would behave better ? I know I could crack the blade a bit and reset TPS, but idle, coast, etc are so damn good. I like the computer to control idle speed via IAC, and timing. Introduce too much idle air and your timing will hover abound 10*, I know that low timing will cause excessive exhaust valve heat. I personally like to see my IAC duty cycle around mid/upper 20%'s and timing @ idle 16-18*.
Now, question is ... Do I gradually (and keep track) of how much I adjust idle screw to get some more air moving past that blade ? Or something more solid then the rubber hose on throttle cable might help too ?
.... ALSO, I got to give Stefan a big shoutout ! Always willing to help, listen, returned every phone call, email, package promptly. I'll give credit where credit is due. Good customer service is hard to find these days.
One more thing, now I didn't get "dyno results" ... But been running a ported stocker TP/plenum on my Posi for last few weeks. I was down 1.5-2lbs of boost, eaton "scream" was greatly reduced
, and seat of pants feel was tremendously different. Many proven tests and experiments have been done, the Dragon out powers everything else. This topic has been covered by Brian himself. "Everyone else's" TB's, adapters/plenums don't hold a candle to the Dragon. This is fact I witnessed first hand too.
Anyhow, just wanted to share about my experience with Dragon and share yet another "sticking" story and would appreciate other users opinions on opening the blade a bit ? Car idles so sweet @ 775-800 .... Never dies, or any of that garbage .. I almost hate to mess with it. But, that sticky tip in needs to be addressed by either using a more solid spacer on my throttle cable OR slowly cracking blade open.
Opinions, advise, questions ? Fire away .... I know this topic is beat to death. Wanted to start a "fresh" one, hopefully with some more users and their feedback.
I've heard some mention that people had/having a hard time getting ahold of Stefan. He answered the phone EVERYTIME I called, 1st time. He has a memory like a elephant (forgets nothing). Extremely helpful, polite, and intelligent guy. Anyhow, had to ship TB back and fourth 2/3 times to get things sorted ... End result is factory driveability and behavior. .... Except for one minor issue on this last fix. I have a bit of a sticking issue after I let off gas and begin to tip in. It IS vacuum causing the sticking, turn the car immediately off and it's fine (so I'm 100% it's vacuum related). Now, anyone running one of these knows the throttle cable needs "modified" ... I used a small piece of rubber hose and zip ties. I'm wondering of something more "solid" then the rubber hose would behave better ? I know I could crack the blade a bit and reset TPS, but idle, coast, etc are so damn good. I like the computer to control idle speed via IAC, and timing. Introduce too much idle air and your timing will hover abound 10*, I know that low timing will cause excessive exhaust valve heat. I personally like to see my IAC duty cycle around mid/upper 20%'s and timing @ idle 16-18*.
Now, question is ... Do I gradually (and keep track) of how much I adjust idle screw to get some more air moving past that blade ? Or something more solid then the rubber hose on throttle cable might help too ?
.... ALSO, I got to give Stefan a big shoutout ! Always willing to help, listen, returned every phone call, email, package promptly. I'll give credit where credit is due. Good customer service is hard to find these days.
One more thing, now I didn't get "dyno results" ... But been running a ported stocker TP/plenum on my Posi for last few weeks. I was down 1.5-2lbs of boost, eaton "scream" was greatly reduced
, and seat of pants feel was tremendously different. Many proven tests and experiments have been done, the Dragon out powers everything else. This topic has been covered by Brian himself. "Everyone else's" TB's, adapters/plenums don't hold a candle to the Dragon. This is fact I witnessed first hand too. Anyhow, just wanted to share about my experience with Dragon and share yet another "sticking" story and would appreciate other users opinions on opening the blade a bit ? Car idles so sweet @ 775-800 .... Never dies, or any of that garbage .. I almost hate to mess with it. But, that sticky tip in needs to be addressed by either using a more solid spacer on my throttle cable OR slowly cracking blade open.
Opinions, advise, questions ? Fire away .... I know this topic is beat to death. Wanted to start a "fresh" one, hopefully with some more users and their feedback.
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