Starting problem...

[blksn8k]

My 99 Cobra decided not to start yesterday when I wanted to leave work. We tried jump starting it but that didn't work. We were able to get it started by pushing it down a slight grade and popping the clutch. When I got it back in my garage it still would not start. I checked for bad connections at both the starter and the battery but that made no difference. I tried swapping the battery for the Optima from my Bronco but still no change. The only thing I haven't tried yet is wacking the starter with a hammer.

Here are the symptoms:

The car has extremely low miles, less than 5000. So obviously it sits in the garage under a cover most of the time. The battery is the original Motorcraft and the sight window shows red (not good?). When I tried to start it the night before last it turned over but the battery was too low to turn fast enough to actually fire. I put a trickle charger on it for about an hour and then it started fine. I left the charger on it overnight since I wanted to drive it the next day. It started fine yesterday morning as well as at lunch time. Now all it will do was make a single clicking sound at the solenoid. It is not a fast series of clicks like a low battery condition so it makes me think it is the starter itself. If it were the neutral safety switch I would not expect any sound at all. When I bump started it, it ran and idled fine. Before I go buying a new starter and battery does anyone have any other thoughts? Any particular brands I should stay away from?

 

[SvtSmitty]

i would say the starter, condensation probably got in there making a bad connection internally just from sitting you could pull it apart and clean it but thats not a job for everyone

the red in the sight glass of the battery only shows the condition of one cell it may recharge and be ok but need to load test it after fully charging it to know or if you dont have access to a load tester if you charge it overnight and take a voltage reading after removing charger for an hour(to let static charge dissapate) you should have at least 12.4 volts if all cells are good and eye will show green, but again battery is seven years old

if you store your vehicle for long periods its a good idea to remove battery and keep on a trickle charger

 

[COBRA90GT]

You'll definitely want to replace that factory battery since it's almost 7 years old now but it sure sounds like the starter is the culprit. Re-check all the ground wiring just to be sure!

 

[blksn8k]

Thanks. I normally keep a Battery Tender on it but took it off when the weather warmed up. I just tried the old "hammer trick" but no go.

Anyone have any recommendations as far as brand of starter?

 

[blksn8k]

Good Lord! I had to use a 3/8" drive 1/2" six point socket, 3" long 3/8" extension, 3/8" universal, 6" long 3/8" extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 1/2" universal, 6" and 10" long 1/2" drive extensions and a 1/2" drive ratchet to get the third bolt out of the starter. I have no flipping idea how I will ever get it back in. It was pure luck that I got it out. All I can say is it damned well better be a bad starter. :rollseyes

 

[no_slow_svt]

lol
i know it sucks. some people dont put that 3rd bolt back in.

but it goes in alot easier that it comes out.

J

 

[blksn8k]

Yeah, it wasn't that bad. I just put a little masking tape on it before I lifted the starter into place. :-D

Unfortunately, that was not the problem and neither was the battery. I put in a new red top Optima and had the starter checked at Autozone. It tested fine. After charging the new battery I still have the exact same problem. I looked at the wiring at the pedals and see something that doesn't look right. There appear to be two separate switches for the clutch mechanism. One of them is actually near the end of the horizontal shaft above the gas pedal. It has a wire connector that is not connected to anything. It has two black wires going into a light grey connector. I do not see anything within reach that it could have been plugged into. Is this normal?

 

[blksn8k]

Well, I just tried the battery from my truck. Same crap. I also tried using a paper clip to bypass the clutch safety position switch. More crap. I have read every post that I could find about starting problems and it seems a lot of people have had a similar problem but almost none of them have posted what fixed it.
I did notice that when I turn the key to the "RUN" position all the gauges sweep from side to side. This does not happen when I start my 02 Ranger. No idea what would cause that but I'm sure it is not normal.

At this point I am ready to say UNCLE! I have better things to waste my weekend on. I guess it's time to have the dealer come pick it up. :cuss:

 

[blksn8k]

I decided to make one last attempt to figure this thing out. I should have tried this first but it seemed way too simple. I guess that's the way it usually goes. Anyway, I ran a ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame. Bingo! This really pisses me off since I made a special effort to clean the factory ground strap and connections. I guess I should go to the dealer and order a new strap. It must be corroded inside the insulation. The car sits most of the time so I suppose that makes some kind of sense.

 

[COBRA90GT]

I had a feeling it would be a ground...

 

[VirtualSVT]

great. corroded grounds.

Does OHio use salt for its roads?

 

[blksn8k]

great. corroded grounds.

Does OHio use salt for its roads?

Yeah, they do. But this car doesn't know what it looks like.

My best guess is that because it sits in a closed garage most of the time it sees a lot of temperature variations which can cause condensation (moisture). That coupled with the fact that the engine block is aluminum, which is prone to react with disimilar metals (steel), and I can see how this might happen.

 

[jshertx]

Good Lord! I had to use a 3/8" drive 1/2" six point socket, 3" long 3/8" extension, 3/8" universal, 6" long 3/8" extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 1/2" universal, 6" and 10" long 1/2" drive extensions and a 1/2" drive ratchet to get the third bolt out of the starter. I have no flipping idea how I will ever get it back in. It was pure luck that I got it out. All I can say is it damned well better be a bad starter. :rollseyes

I feel your pain! I have replaced my starter twice in the past six months. The first one was faulty, and the second was fine. Every now and then, I get a single click or a series of clicks. I have replaced the battery, terminal connectors, starter relay, starter, and the switch interruptor (located on the steering column). The guy a Oreilly's suggested the last which was most likely a waste. The original was fine! As far as the starter goes, THE ENGINEER AT FORD THAT DESIGNED IT NEEDS HIS OR HER A** REMOVED WITH A CHEESE GRATER!!! :cuss: I spent several hours, several beers, and cussed like a sailor to get that thing out. The replacement took just as long. It's damn near impossible to do especially without all the tools you mentioned above. My issue has still not been resolved. There is still times that it will not crank. I hope to find the culprit, and get it fixed. The starter better not crap out on me anytime soon. I would rather sh** a ball spanked porquipine than change that freakin starter again!!

 

[wals9331]

Can you see where the ground is corroded? I am assuming this isnt the first new edge with this EXACT same problem...

 

[Un4GivN]

Holy old thread batman.

 

[jshertx]

I got my issue fixed. My mechanic said that the aluminum blocks on these engines are not the best ground for the starting system. He ran a cable connected to the negative battery terminal to a STEEL bracket near the steering fluid resevoir. The old ground is still connected as well, and it runs like a champ! :beer:

 

[wm_sorg]

Where is the ground strap located? At the starter? I need to check mine.