Started tinkering.........

plan b

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I emptied all the coolant out of the radiator, engine block, and intercooler. Pulled the lower intake and eaton as one assembly. I'm buying a telescoping trans jack soon and will pull the trans and disconnect everything from the bottom. Engine will be pulled from the top and let the tweaking begin! I probably won't have a mod party but those that want to hang are welcome to come out and chill.... There will be beer. I'll update when I have the gear ready to go.
 

Jpjr

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Awesome dude. So what are the plans? Port and polish? Rebuild?

When do they start selling Oberon again?
 

plan b

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Jpjr said:
Awesome dude. So what are the plans? Port and polish? Rebuild?

When do they start selling Oberon again?

Oberon is around April. I remember last year was around Tiger's opening day when we went to Karl's. The kegs were fresh. Yeah, port and polish, new valve guides and seals. Maybe ss oversized valves. All arp fasteners. Same block, rods, and crank. All new bearings. Nothing really crazy but it will hold up to the all the abuse being doled out on a daily basis weather permitting.
 

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You think that will fix your smoke at startup problem?

JP
 

plan b

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JP said:
You think that will fix your smoke at startup problem?

JP

I'm pretty sure it's a nicked valve guide or bad seals. Once the engine is out and on the engine stand I'll know for sure. I hate the smoke on startup though and want to fix that crap. I found one lower intake manifold bolt that backed out that could have caused a vacuum leak. If there was a leak I couldn't tell because I couldn't hear it and it ran ok.
 

postban

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plan b said:
...snip... Once the engine is out and on the engine stand I'll know for sure. ...snip...

Kev, there is some kinda problem with our motor and normal engine stands. It is so wide the arms on the regular ones don't reach. Tymensky told me that. Might need to rig something if you have not already.

Sean has an 01 mill on a stand, he might know
 

plan b

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postban said:
Kev, there is some kinda problem with our motor and normal engine stands. It is so wide the arms on the regular ones don't reach. Tymensky told me that. Might need to rig something if you have not already.

Sean has an 01 mill on a stand, he might know

Cool, I'll mod the engine stand.
 

Jpjr

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PlanB I checked out the fuel system you were referring to... he's running external pumps and BAP's, which seems like a lot of extra headaches to me. If you were going to run external return sytle why wouldn't you just run the pumps 100% with a regulator and forget about any extra voltage requirements?

I want to run a fully mechanical system if possible. I want it to be brain dead.
 

plan b

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Jpjr said:
PlanB I checked out the fuel system you were referring to... he's running external pumps and BAP's, which seems like a lot of extra headaches to me. If you were going to run external return sytle why wouldn't you just run the pumps 100% with a regulator and forget about any extra voltage requirements?

I want to run a fully mechanical system if possible. I want it to be brain dead.

I'm not going to use bap's with a return setup. I don't see a need for them. When I first looked at the pics I thought the pumps were the filters. I'm thinking I would rather have an in tank setup but need to decide where to get it. If I go the cheaper route and stay returnless I could use the stock or gt pumps with bap(if needed) and do the wire upgrade. Do the fuel tank hat mod with the 3/8 submersible fuel hose and pprv delete. Dual -6 outlet into -8 to the fuel rails with the russel adapter and see how that goes:shrug:
 
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Jpjr

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plan b said:
I'm not going to use bap's with a return setup. I don't see a need for them. When I first looked at the pics I thought the pumps were the filters. I'm thinking I would rather have an in tank setup but need to decide where to get it. If I go the cheaper route and stay returnless I could use the stock or gt pumps with bap(if needed) and do the wire upgrade. Do the fuel tank hat mod with the 3/8 submersible fuel hose and pprv delete. Dual -6 outlet into -8 to the fuel rails with the russel adapter and see how that goes:shrug:


I've got to send you the info on Russ's return style design. I don't have the details in front of me but the guy walked me through it on the phone and it was the best I had heard. I know he put dual shrader valves right outside the tank so that if he had fuel issues during tuning he could monitor both pumps separately and work from the regulator through the injectors for any fuel loss issues.
 

plan b

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Jpjr said:
I've got to send you the info on Russ's return style design. I don't have the details in front of me but the guy walked me through it on the phone and it was the best I had heard. I know he put dual shrader valves right outside the tank so that if he had fuel issues during tuning he could monitor both pumps separately and work from the regulator through the injectors for any fuel loss issues.

Send it when you get a chance.
 

plan b

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Jpjr said:
I've got to send you the info on Russ's return style design. I don't have the details in front of me but the guy walked me through it on the phone and it was the best I had heard. I know he put dual shrader valves right outside the tank so that if he had fuel issues during tuning he could monitor both pumps separately and work from the regulator through the injectors for any fuel loss issues.


Send it to me son!
 

Jpjr

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plan b said:
Send it to me son!

This was from my buddy Russ, I hope he doesn't mindme posting up on his setup...he expects it to be good for over 1000hp (and totally brain dead)....


(2) 255 lph Walbro in-tank fuel pumps

Connected by Gates submersable fuel line with both output going to individual 3/8" dia. hard SS tubes welded to the Hat with (2) AN-6 fitting.

AN-6 braided lines goes in to (2) AN-8 check valves screwed into a Y-block to a single AN-10 line on the other side.

The AN-10 dumps into a Kinsler 10 micron billet fuel filter that is just a little smaller then a beer can.

From the filter there is hard AN-10 SS fuel line all the way into the engine compartment that connects to another Y-bock.

The output of Y-block goes to (2) AN-8 braided line and into a pair of billetflow fuel rails.

The return of the fuel rails dumps onto (2) AN_6 lines and in recombined at another Y-block.

At the other end of the Y-block had a Walbro mechanical fuel pressure regulator that outputs to a hard AN-8 SS line.

The AN-8 line travels back to the fuel pump thru 1/2" hard SS line welded on the Hat.
 

plan b

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I'm pulling the trans tomorrow(sunday) and will disconnect everything from the bottom that's necessary.
 

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