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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
stalling issue
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<blockquote data-quote="Jroc" data-source="post: 9785858" data-attributes="member: 51847"><p>Some Cobras are just stubburn stalls. **** what anyone else tells you that contradicts that because some just are even if theirs aren't like that. No two Cobras are exactly alike. Mine was a very stubburn staller. Sometimes a tune with the latest Ford programming to cure it doesn't work on all car. </p><p></p><p>Some people say to make sure your TPS is set at about .99 volts, clean your IAC Valve, clean your TB, make sure the MAF is set and tuned at the factory 10 o' clock position, and not relocated to a 12 o' clock position, etc, but none of these things fixed my car. The only way I got mine to work right was to raise the idle. During the colder months I would have it idling at about 1,100 or 1,200 rpms, and I would turn it back down to idle around 900 or 1,000 rpms during the warmer months. It sucks, but it's better than stalling all the time. Stalling out is annoying, embarassing, and very dangerious in certain situations.</p><p></p><p>There was a guy on here who had a bad stalling problem and he eventually traced it to the program in the computer that helps the computer learn the car. I can't think of what its called. It's called "something LEARNING". Anyway many tuners cut it off while tuning the car, and then cut it back on when they are finished. His tuner forgot to turn it back on when he finished tuning his car, and it was making it stall. Once he had it cut back on it fixed his stalling problem.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jroc, post: 9785858, member: 51847"] Some Cobras are just stubburn stalls. **** what anyone else tells you that contradicts that because some just are even if theirs aren't like that. No two Cobras are exactly alike. Mine was a very stubburn staller. Sometimes a tune with the latest Ford programming to cure it doesn't work on all car. Some people say to make sure your TPS is set at about .99 volts, clean your IAC Valve, clean your TB, make sure the MAF is set and tuned at the factory 10 o' clock position, and not relocated to a 12 o' clock position, etc, but none of these things fixed my car. The only way I got mine to work right was to raise the idle. During the colder months I would have it idling at about 1,100 or 1,200 rpms, and I would turn it back down to idle around 900 or 1,000 rpms during the warmer months. It sucks, but it's better than stalling all the time. Stalling out is annoying, embarassing, and very dangerious in certain situations. There was a guy on here who had a bad stalling problem and he eventually traced it to the program in the computer that helps the computer learn the car. I can't think of what its called. It's called "something LEARNING". Anyway many tuners cut it off while tuning the car, and then cut it back on when they are finished. His tuner forgot to turn it back on when he finished tuning his car, and it was making it stall. Once he had it cut back on it fixed his stalling problem. [/QUOTE]
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