Spun a Rod Bearing

inzane99

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I think I just spun a rod bearing. :( The car makes a loud knocking noise but only when I press on the gas. It sounds like shacking a marble inside a tin can. The sound is coming from the top middle of the engine around the upper intake?? I dont realy know what is wrong with the engine but im just trying to prepare for the worst.:??: What do you guys think it might be??


If it is a spun bearing I guess Im going to have to rebuild the engine. How much $$ does it cost to rebuild the engine? Will it be better to just order a crate engine? Im in a tight budget so any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. One more thing here in El Paso there is no one that I trust rebuilding my motor, maybe just the dealer ship but I dont want to get raped. Any good quality shops around the West Texas Southern New Mexico area? If not which other shops would you guys recommend?

Thank You
 

Boss75

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I know of a great mustang shop in Lubbock, but I'm not sure if you want to take it that far.
 

"SNAKIE"

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unclecookie said:
Are you positive the noise is coming from the engine? The noise you describe sounds like a catalytic converter.
thats the sound a spun bearing makes...and it only gets worse..
i just went through this shit 3 months ago, and i still dont have my car:cuss: but thats another story
 

THEWOODKING

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sorry to say i had the same sound and it was exactly a spun bearing.....the sound is pretty low but as soon as your rev the motor is gets louder and sounds harder??? i had my motor rebuild due to the spun rod bearing because i wanted matching numbers.....and it did cost a pretty penny...my dad paid for it and it was about 6300-6500 to have it fully rebuild.....im sorry to hear that bro especially being that your on a tight budget...i think i have seen crates for about 3000 other places and the only reason i didnt do that is like i said the matching numbers thing....hope its not as but, you never know...hope i helped
 

Torch10th

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With the engine running, start pulling one COP connector at a time on each cylinder. If you pull one off and the noise stops...definite spun rod bearing.

It certainly sounds like that might be the case.
 

inzane99

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Torch10th said:
With the engine running, start pulling one COP connector at a time on each cylinder. If you pull one off and the noise stops...definite spun rod bearing.

It certainly sounds like that might be the case.

I will try that, and also Ill try to video tape the noise and post it up. What trips me out is that it only makes that noise when I press on the gas.
 

Torch10th

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spun rod bearings get louder the more load you put on them. Based on your description I'm pretty sure that's what has happened.
 
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Thats what both my spun rod bearings sounded like on both occasions. I'm sorry to hear that. I know the feeling all too well. Make sure on this new motor you put in a Canton 7qt pan to eliminate the possibility of having any future oil starvation issues.

If its any consolation...I was able to get close to 25,000 miles on my 2nd motor before it grenaded due to the bearing. Maybe you'll be as lucky. But then again, it can let go at any time. I hope for the best.
 

red32v

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yeah i have gone through this problem as well, twice actaully. at the time mine went i was working for ford, and got the replacement longblock, list was 4200, but got it for 3400 with 3/36k warranty. i would go that route if your not looking to go forced induction.
 

CobraRed01

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General question about replacement WAP motors. What does Ford do to the remans to keep them from spinning bearings again? Anything? If not, aren't they on "borrowed" time anyway? When you buy a forged motor from say, VT Engines, do they do anything to solve the inherent bearing issue in the WAP block? I ask, because I'm afraid I might be headed down that road (so to speak) with my own '01. Might be better just to go with VT. What do you think?
 
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CobraRed01 said:
General question about replacement WAP motors. What does Ford do to the remans to keep them from spinning bearings again? Anything? If not, aren't they on "borrowed" time anyway? When you buy a forged motor from say, VT Engines, do they do anything to solve the inherent bearing issue in the WAP block? I ask, because I'm afraid I might be headed down that road (so to speak) with my own '01. Might be better just to go with VT. What do you think?


I'm pretty sure that Ford will put the same rod bearings in that all the 01s came with. You need to buy an aftermarket oil pan. I just wouldn't be surprised if this bearing failure was related to oil starvation. This has been discussed at length. You remember any time recently running the car hard then developing the bearing failure?

Regarding the VT issue, it comes down to how much you're willing to spend at this moment. Unless you're planning on installing the motor yourself...you're looking at least at $1000 for the install.
 

2001 Blue Snake

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The described sound appears similar but are you sure about the location? A rod bearing wouldn't make noise near the intake. Has anyone had problems with bearings on the camshaft? I know you guys have referred to oil starvation due to lack of flow through the head.
 

CobraRed01

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01cobravortech said:
I'm pretty sure that Ford will put the same rod bearings in that all the 01s came with. You need to buy an aftermarket oil pan. I just wouldn't be surprised if this bearing failure was related to oil starvation. This has been discussed at length. You remember any time recently running the car hard then developing the bearing failure?

Regarding the VT issue, it comes down to how much you're willing to spend at this moment. Unless you're planning on installing the motor yourself...you're looking at least at $1000 for the install.

Thanks...as always... good ideas. The bearing problem is definitely related to oil starvation based on what we've read in here. The total screw-job here is if you listen to Ford's standard of 6-quarts and drive your car even reasonably hard you stand the chance of frying your motor....WAY before it's due. Especially if you like the "twisties"... which I do. I'm sure many have had this problem not knowing about the 6 1/2 to 7 qt requirement. Lack of oil drainage out of the head and maybe just poor bearings are major issues, but you'd think Ford would have addressed them in the remans. I've never asked VT Engines or anybody else if they deal with this on their built motors. I'm sure using better bearings is a no-brainer, not sure if the head flow issue is addressed. Certainly worth looking into if you go that route.
 
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CobraRed01 said:
Thanks...as always... good ideas. The bearing problem is definitely related to oil starvation based on what we've read in here. The total screw-job here is if you listen to Ford's standard of 6-quarts and drive your car even reasonably hard you stand the chance of frying your motor....WAY before it's due. Especially if you like the "twisties"... which I do. I'm sure many have had this problem not knowing about the 6 1/2 to 7 qt requirement. Lack of oil drainage out of the head and maybe just poor bearings are major issues, but you'd think Ford would have addressed them in the remans. I've never asked VT Engines or anybody else if they deal with this on their built motors. I'm sure using better bearings is a no-brainer, not sure if the head flow issue is addressed. Certainly worth looking into if you go that route.


You should always keep in mind that Ford designed these cars with the expectation, in the over all grand scheme of things, to be driven conservatively, etc. So any short comings that the car faces are not things they planned for. They put in a good stock oil pan to baffle the oil in case you went auto-crossing, etc. But you have sound advice on here that hopefully you'll take. I know I sure did. In my final stock motor I put an aftermarket oil pan, recently installed the LFP radiator and better water pump. Made sure the vehicle was tuned properly and safely. Did all the breathing mods with an intake, fulle xhaust, etc. Thats the way to go in getting the most out of our cars.
 

viperbluelx

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inzane001 said:
What other (trusted) shops can rebuild my engine?


Or is this Mach1 engine woth buying and will it just bolt on to my car?

http://www.karkraft.com/long_blocks.htm

I put a Mach 1/Aviator longblock in mine and it ran like a raped ape on the motor. Definitely worth it if you can pick one up for the right price cause you get the better 03-04 heads.

If it's gonna be more than $3000 though I'd rebuild yours with H-beam rods and forged flat-top pistons.
 

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