Spray and pray!

[Freedom]

Well I had mentioned on the board that I had thought I blew up my Lightning with the steig ported eaton that i put on.....it was rattling like hell....turned out to be just a loose lower pulley and a stripped clamp on the oil seperator...

Seeing oil all over the engine bay and hearing that rattle scared the bejeezus out of me. So not having to spend the money fixing it, I spent the money making it faster.....my theory, I didnt blow it up so I guess I wasnt trying hard enough....

New setup (on stock bottom end):

6# lower
C&L Plenum
Accufab TB
Steig Stage 3 Port
Airaid CAI
TR6's
and a dry 50 shot

That said, I tuned with everything except the 50 shot and ran an 11.8 A/F across the board at 19 degrees........so dropped back to 15 or 16 I dont see a lean problem with the 50 shot, might be too much HP for the rods though.

 

[nastynivek]

Are you really trying to blow the engine? Sounds like a good excuse to get a built engine.

 

[Fade 2 Black]

19* is too high, 18* is the max most run on stock block. I don't run No2 but you will have to watch for it to go lean with the dry shot. Good luck with the new setup. I hope she holds together for you.

 

[TXRickC]

why not buy a built block now and put it in? Then you'll have a good stock bottom end to sell to someone who wants it rather than a block that's scrap and worthless.

 

[Blown5pnt4]

I would run it back to at least 14degrees max on the spray.....but like others said, buy the built block now and get some money back by sellin your stocker....

 

[andy]

did you put the shot before the MAF?

 

[Jesse@MBRP]

Come on guys, I am pushing the stock block way harder than that.

 

[The Swede]

Sooner or later you will succeed !

 

[Freedom]

..

yeah I questioned the 19 degrees as well, all the other tuners seem to lose HP after 17 or 18 degrees.....

I am with Jesse, this thing is gonna see a lot of dyno time and the tune for the N2O will be massaged and watched closely, I dont think I am really putting it in jeapordy yet.....

Also as an FYI the mail order tune from Mark@LFP was wayyyy safe, like 11.2 A/F which is good for safety I guess but bad for power..........

 

[mickey03L]

Come on guys, I am pushing the stock block way harder than that.

I think everyone is seeing the dry shot and wonderin bout blowing it up. Arent you running a wet shot which should be lil safer. Glad to see ur nos setup is workin good for ya and thats one sweet lookin L. Everytime i see it i cant believe its not an 03

 

[latemodelracer2]

your injectors are probley close to be being maxed out along with your mass air.

 

[Freedom]

your injectors are probley close to be being maxed out along with your mass air.

have an SCT big air, and yeah the injectors will be almost maxed with the spray.....but they will be ok....

 

[unclesams_svt]

I would go with a wet system it is cheaper then a new motor if. Just mt 0.02 if you want to play it safer.

 

[Freedom]

I would go with a wet system it is cheaper then a new motor if. Just mt 0.02 if you want to play it safer.

Done right a dry system is safer......a wet system does ok for a hack job setup, but if your fuel solenoid goes out, BOOM!.....its safer to control your A/F through tuning of the factory fuel system. The real upside to a wet system is you can run it on a decent street tune so you dont have to program the ecu whenever you want to turn on the nitrous.....

 

[CHUXSVT]

i only run nitrous on 100 octane. 50 shot with 4 pound pulley.custom tune.ran 11.8 also.

 

[SWThomas]

Good luck with that. JLP's number is (717) 786-4670 when you put a window in that stock block.

 

[miamijdm]

A local tuner recommended going with a dry on our trucks. He was telling me that with a wet, the fuel doesn't get through the rotors correctly. He was telling me that dry is the way to go because you get proper fuel distribution from the injectors.. Not necessarily my view, but just an opinion I heard.

 

[2000L]

Depends on the quality of the kit. The kit I have has a nozzel that provides exellent atomization of the fuel an nitrous mixture. Makes it through the rotors no problem. The truck runs extremly consistant at the track with only the hundreths column changing on my time slips. The main problem with the dry system is our trucks with a just a pulley change our maf's are near pegged. Most of us run aftermarket pulleys. With weather greatly affecting the way are trucks run and can mean the differnce in or MAF's pegging or not I hardly think a dry sytem is the way to go. So with all this in mind you want to spray a dry shot before the maf and then ask it to compansate accordingly with a near maxed out fuel system. Sounds like bad buisness to me. My solenoids are guarnteed for life. They do not even make rebuild kits for them. To my knowledge they have not even been able to make one fail. The only way I could see using a dry sytem on an L is in stock form. Even then I would not get to crazy with the amout I was spraying. Good luck with what ever you decide! Wet Kit here all the way.

www.racetested.com

 

[CHUXSVT]

how do you know when your MAF is pegged out.

 

[2000L]

MAF reads on a scale of 0 to 5 volts 5 being maxed, You will need a device with data logging capabilites.

A wet system sprays after the maf supplying is own fuel. In this case your only asking for more from your fuel pumps and not you entire fuel system. If your pumps are up to snuff your good to go!