Spec 3+ Clutch break-in: hwy or city driving?

[srl135]

So im getting a new spec 3+ and billet steel FW installed and I am curious what type of break in is better to eliminate chatter. I am aware that some ppl have had bad luck with chatter on the Spec 3+ but some have been able to obtain a near-stock feel with the right FWA, clutch quad and LDC kit...also some of them have no chatter.

Spec 3+ users, do you have chatter? Describe your break in? Miles, driving habits, etc.

Thanks!

(Its gonna be tough to be easy on it...the whipple is going on at the same time)

 

[fiveoh2go]

I'd say in-town/stop and go driving is going to be more beneficial to you in breaking in the new clutch. That's primarily how I broke in my 3+, with some highway cruising thrown in as well. During normal highway driving I use the clutch very little, so it would take forever to break it in that way.

 

[slifko52]

i just put a spec in my car and i had a prb with a chatter, they said do 500 to 700 in town miles

 

[RRRR03Cobra]

I just installed my second Spec 3+. I actually broke mine in for almost 800 miles before wailing on it. I wanted to be sure that everything seated and meshed. My chatter went away around 900 to 1000 miles. Now the pedal feels light and the clutch just barely chatters when I take off, especially if I don't give it enough gas.

 

[97cobra1]

My stage 1 was broken in all city miles. Took about 1000 miles for the bad bad chatter to go away and anotehr 500-750 miles and it's completely gone. Effin love the clutch now. I called Spec about the chatter around 600 milers into my break in (the box recommends 500 miles for proper break in so i was curious on wtf was causing the chatter) and the guy i talked to told me to stop driving ti like a pussy and go beat on it a little bit. (He said it a little nicer obviously.)

But like stated, city miles in stop and go traffic will seat everything and mate it faster and better than highway driving. Highway driving puts very little true strain on the clutch where the stop and go traffic will be getting the clutch all warmed up and broke in.

 

[srl135]

Good deal guys, thanks....

Any concerns getting it dyno-tuned with the new clutch not broken in? I dont think it would be a problem as long as they are very easy on shifting...

 

[SnakeBit]

I kept my revs under 4,000 during the first 500 miles. No chatter at all for me, but I have an aluminum flywheel. As I understand it, chatter is lessened with a steel flywheel.

IMO, a dyno pull before the clutch is broken in is a bad idea. I'd wait. A new clutch needs the heat cycles before it's ready to be hammered on.

 

[srl135]

thats the concern i have for the dyno pulls. On the flip side, i could see that it is ok to run the rpms up as long as your not messing with the clutch (only 4th gear pulls).

If it is a problem, then would it be safe to run the car untuned until i break in the clutch? If i didnt tune the car until then, obviously i wouldnt be romping on it. RPMs would probably stay well below 4k...

 

[Jomo1994z71]

Good deal guys, thanks....

Any concerns getting it dyno-tuned with the new clutch not broken in? I dont think it would be a problem as long as they are very easy on shifting...

Very interesting thead...I'm in the exact situation as you right now...I have a KB 2.2 that is being installed by some friends and I, but I am putting it off now because of the fact that I want to put a Spec 3+ in with the Steel flywheel in. I also want break the clutch in properly before puting the KB on because they won't be able to tune it without doing several pulls in 4th. So, I don't know what to do...funds are an issue too...as of right now, I might try my luck and throw it on the dyno with the stock clutch and see how that goes, lol...

 

[srl135]

My mechanic is practically begging me to not 'try' to dyno the car on the stock clutch and input shaft. Perhaps the concern stems from the fact that the car this blower was previously on, put down 638/611 with a 3.25"/6# lower (i bought the entire setup minus the lower). I am running a stock lower so i expect less numbers, but he doesnt think the input shaft will hold.

If the car is in gear though, a few pulls shouldnt harm the clutch right??

 

[srl135]

For anyone wondering, i started a new thread to ask that question specifically...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...whipple-clutch-dynotune-when.html#post8849378

Thanks for the help all!

 

[jumperjack]

Good deal guys, thanks....

Any concerns getting it dyno-tuned with the new clutch not broken in? I dont think it would be a problem as long as they are very easy on shifting...

I wouldn't take it the dyno with a new clutch. I took mine after I got everything together including new Fidanza AL flywheel and 4.3 clutch and Glazed the disk. It was also not adjusted properly when they installed it but after the dyno and 1500 miles I had to replace it. Dyno on the clutch you have in if it isn't slipping or break your new one before the dyno.

 

[spartansnake]

I wouldn't take it the dyno with a new clutch. I took mine after I got everything together including new Fidanza AL flywheel and 4.3 clutch and Glazed the disk. It was also not adjusted properly when they installed it but after the dyno and 1500 miles I had to replace it. Dyno on the clutch you have in if it isn't slipping or break your new one before the dyno.

+10000 same thing happened to mine..

 

[Stalker27]

A new clutch needs to be broken in with city driving with varying rpms with alot of stop & go. Highway does nothing to break in a clutch

 

[srl135]

Thanks for the advice guys, i stopped him before he got to the clutch and he is going to finish up the stuff for a dyno trip and get it all tuned on the stock clutch. After that move onto the Spec 3+ so i can baby it for as long as i need.

 

[662rwtq]

stop and go

 

[srl135]

Thanks, i wont have any problem finding stop and go traffic driving to work by the galleria in Houston! I cant wait to see how the car drives after all this work..sure hope its still fun since so much is changing!