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2020+ Shelby GT500 Mustang
Speaker Upgrades?
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 16967625" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>You bet your bippy she was! She traveled across the pond to watch the Bills suck. I was home alone and looking for trouble.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813603[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I figure now is the time to be a bit more detailed about this mod as I can't remember shit anymore and I'll probably forget everything in a month or two. To start, this is what I ordered, all through Amazon:</p><p></p><h3><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVD1ZHV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" target="_blank">Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" Dual 4 ohms Voice Coil Subwoofer, Black </a> </h3><h3><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF8PK21?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" target="_blank">RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring Harness</a></h3><h3><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006I04VLU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" target="_blank">Fairfield The Original Fil Polyester Poly-Fill, 16 oz, White</a></h3><p></p><p>Note that the pigtails are described as fitting Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge. Regardless, they have the proper connectors to mate with the ones Ford has in our beloved fatass pony cars.</p><p></p><p>Again, the trickiest part of the install is removing the factory retaining ring. I had a number of trim pry tools but all of them were too thick. The knife worked very well. Study the photo I previously posted that shows the location of the tabs and you'll know just where to go. The most difficult ones to reach are at 3 and 9 o'clock as they are the most obstructed. You'll be sliding your tool/knife from the outside diameter and pushing on the wedge side of the pin while applying light, upward pressure on the ring. The wedge portion of the pin will be captured between the two trim ring flanges. From the underside, the pins go through these holes...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813613[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>You'll be going between the two flanges like so to push on the tab...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813614[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The pigtails...I cut the small end connectors off that you see at the bottom of this photo.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813615[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I peeled back an inch or so of the sheathing and tinned each so that I ended up with a semi-rigid end. I know the above photo shows the plastic connectors seated but that was just to verify fitment. I actually connected the pigtail harness to the speaker first and one of the last things to do was to plug the connectors together and slip the sub into place - much easier than the other way around.</p><p></p><p>The Pioneer speaker wire attachment points are spring loaded holes where you push the end of each, insert the wire, and release. I wanted some more positive retention than that. I pushed my tinned ends through each hole and bent the excess wire up and along the Pioneer connector (hidden in the following photo because the wires come out on the back side).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813616[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I then wrapped each with electrical tape and because tape falls off over time and with vibration, I added a zip tie so that won't happen.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813617[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>For reference...the factory Black/Purple wires are negative and Green/Yellow are positive.</p><p></p><p>The mounting flange on the Pioneer is close to the pattern on the OEM speaker but not a perfect match. The holes on the Pioneer are clocked perfectly but on a slightly smaller circumferential layout. This is why you need to slot the Pioneer hole locations. Not my photo but this shows what I'm getting at...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813619[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>At each hole location, measure 1" each way from the hole center and snip the flange. You can then bend or peen the new "flange" flat (so you can do much better than what is in the above photo, easily). Then snip from the flange to each side of the hole thus creating a slot. I used snips because it was easy and I didn't want to grind and have dust on the speaker magnet, etc. At the 12 o'clock location you need to cut out a 1" section or so as the factory enclosure has a locating tab there. You could grind the tab off but I left it in case I wanted to be all stock/shitty sound again. So same snips need to be made on the flange, then just use some pliers to work the metal back and forth until the section can be removed. Look closely at the top of the following photo and you can see the piece I removed at the 12 noon location.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1813620[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Hope that helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 16967625, member: 83412"] You bet your bippy she was! She traveled across the pond to watch the Bills suck. I was home alone and looking for trouble. [ATTACH type="full" alt="F7w53ayXwAAzmLf.jpg"]1813603[/ATTACH] I figure now is the time to be a bit more detailed about this mod as I can't remember shit anymore and I'll probably forget everything in a month or two. To start, this is what I ordered, all through Amazon: [HEADING=2][URL='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVD1ZHV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details']Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" Dual 4 ohms Voice Coil Subwoofer, Black [/URL] [/HEADING] [HEADING=2][URL='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF8PK21?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details']RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring Harness[/URL][/HEADING] [HEADING=2][URL='https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006I04VLU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1']Fairfield The Original Fil Polyester Poly-Fill, 16 oz, White[/URL][/HEADING] Note that the pigtails are described as fitting Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge. Regardless, they have the proper connectors to mate with the ones Ford has in our beloved fatass pony cars. Again, the trickiest part of the install is removing the factory retaining ring. I had a number of trim pry tools but all of them were too thick. The knife worked very well. Study the photo I previously posted that shows the location of the tabs and you'll know just where to go. The most difficult ones to reach are at 3 and 9 o'clock as they are the most obstructed. You'll be sliding your tool/knife from the outside diameter and pushing on the wedge side of the pin while applying light, upward pressure on the ring. The wedge portion of the pin will be captured between the two trim ring flanges. From the underside, the pins go through these holes... [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_145450.jpg"]1813613[/ATTACH] You'll be going between the two flanges like so to push on the tab... [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_145427.jpg"]1813614[/ATTACH] The pigtails...I cut the small end connectors off that you see at the bottom of this photo. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_151627.jpg"]1813615[/ATTACH] I peeled back an inch or so of the sheathing and tinned each so that I ended up with a semi-rigid end. I know the above photo shows the plastic connectors seated but that was just to verify fitment. I actually connected the pigtail harness to the speaker first and one of the last things to do was to plug the connectors together and slip the sub into place - much easier than the other way around. The Pioneer speaker wire attachment points are spring loaded holes where you push the end of each, insert the wire, and release. I wanted some more positive retention than that. I pushed my tinned ends through each hole and bent the excess wire up and along the Pioneer connector (hidden in the following photo because the wires come out on the back side). [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_202937.jpg"]1813616[/ATTACH] I then wrapped each with electrical tape and because tape falls off over time and with vibration, I added a zip tie so that won't happen. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_204545.jpg"]1813617[/ATTACH] For reference...the factory Black/Purple wires are negative and Green/Yellow are positive. The mounting flange on the Pioneer is close to the pattern on the OEM speaker but not a perfect match. The holes on the Pioneer are clocked perfectly but on a slightly smaller circumferential layout. This is why you need to slot the Pioneer hole locations. Not my photo but this shows what I'm getting at... [ATTACH type="full" alt="20220505_132952.jpg"]1813619[/ATTACH] At each hole location, measure 1" each way from the hole center and snip the flange. You can then bend or peen the new "flange" flat (so you can do much better than what is in the above photo, easily). Then snip from the flange to each side of the hole thus creating a slot. I used snips because it was easy and I didn't want to grind and have dust on the speaker magnet, etc. At the 12 o'clock location you need to cut out a 1" section or so as the factory enclosure has a locating tab there. You could grind the tab off but I left it in case I wanted to be all stock/shitty sound again. So same snips need to be made on the flange, then just use some pliers to work the metal back and forth until the section can be removed. Look closely at the top of the following photo and you can see the piece I removed at the 12 noon location. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231006_201013.jpg"]1813620[/ATTACH] Hope that helps. [/QUOTE]
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