Spcific part number and where to get Porterfield R4-S for our cars

slythetove

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Would like the exact part numbers for front and rear, and links to or numbers to call for purchase.

Thanks.
 

2thman

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Might want to shoot Bingo13 a pm, I know he runs these.

jason
 

Bingo13

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R4-S pads
Fronts AP 412
Rears AP 627a
You can order direct from Porterfield by calling (800) 537-6842.
 

Bingo13

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I guess I missed the original post, sorry about that. :)

I have to give a very good recommendation to the SBS series of pads after spending a week with them on the car. Next up are the CarboTechs.
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by Bingo13
I have to give a very good recommendation to the SBS series of pads after spending a week with them on the car. Next up are the CarboTechs.

Why do you keep switching pads? Also what pads do you currently recommend for street/track use the Porterfield or SBS. Which SBS series were you using the heavy-duty or endurance pads?
 

slythetove

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SBS ?

What are you doing to me man....

Ok, I want street pads. I do not autocross, but coming down from 140 sucks on the stock pads.

Porterfield R4-S Bingo?? Or SBS? what are those? Where?

AAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHH

:)

Anxiously awaiting your review/reply.
 

Bingo13

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Street only-

The R4-S might be a little bit too aggressive and maybe a little more dusting than you want on the street although they would work great.

I would suggest the following in order-

SBS Pro Touring (available at tirerack or baer)
CarboTech Panther or Bobcat (available at carbotech)
Hawk HPS (available at tirerack)

The SBS can be bedded in three quick steps, the other two will take a couple of cycles. Follow these steps- http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5 , buy some Ford HD brake fluid, and some good ss lines for the front and you will be set.
 

slythetove

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I don't really care about dusting.

When you say "too aggressive" what do you mean? I want this thing to come down from 140 and feel good while doing it.
 

Bingo13

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Originally posted by slythetove
I don't really care about dusting.

When you say "too aggressive" what do you mean? I want this thing to come down from 140 and feel good while doing it.

The pads are designed for street/track events (light track at that). As such they take longer to heat up on the street, produce more dust, and are a little harder on the rotors than normal street pads. I have not noticed any real noise increase with these pads either.
If you have constant back to back high speed stops on your autobahn then I highly suggest the R4-S pads, SBS Pro Track, or Carbotech Panther Plus pads. The Hawk HPS Plus and PFC-Z rated pads are good cross-over pads also but I prefer the three listed.
If these stops are not back to back then the pads mentioned for the street will almost equal the these pads in the first couple of stops but will start to fade quickly afterwards.
One of the biggest changes you can make will be the ss lines and a very good fluid change on a regular basis. I change my brake fluid, oil, differential, and transmission fluid every 3~5k miles, kind of anal but I have not had a mechanical failure due to fluids yet. The brake fluid I change after every track event also.
A great deal of the stopping "feel" and actual distances are controlled by your tire and suspension setup also. You can have a great set of brakes and the car will still not stop correctly with cheap tires and improper dive.
I never liked the stock F1s for a variety of reasons but one of the biggest is they liked to slide on me for high speed stops. They were gone within 500 miles along with most everything else I did not like on the suspension. ;-)
 
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jtfx6552

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Originally posted by Bingo13
Street only-

The R4-S might be a little bit too aggressive and maybe a little more dusting than you want on the street although they would work great.

I would suggest the following in order-

SBS Pro Touring (available at tirerack or baer)
CarboTech Panther or Bobcat (available at carbotech)
Hawk HPS (available at tirerack)

The SBS can be bedded in three quick steps, the other two will take a couple of cycles. Follow these steps- http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5 , buy some Ford HD brake fluid, and some good ss lines for the front and you will be set.


Funny, I was just going to post this question to you, when this thread magically appeared!

Ok, went to Tirerack's site, looks like these (SBS) are $136.00 for the fronts. Right now, I only need fronts, would it be a problem to use these without changing the rear pads?

I would like to get the new lines for the front at least, I didn't see them listed on my tirerack search page, do you know if they sell them? If not what are some other good sources?
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by jtfx6552
Funny, I was just going to post this question to you, when this thread magically appeared!

Ok, went to Tirerack's site, looks like these (SBS) are $136.00 for the fronts. Right now, I only need fronts, would it be a problem to use these without changing the rear pads?

I would like to get the new lines for the front at least, I didn't see them listed on my tirerack search page, do you know if they sell them? If not what are some other good sources?

No there is not a problem only changing the front pads independent of the rear.

I am going with the new stainless steel lines from Maximum Motorsports. The really funny thing about stainless steel lines is even though in controlling line pressure they are extremely strong in every other respect they are very fragile. The new MM lines have banjo fittings that allow the hose end to swivel at the chassis prior to tightening to allow proper alignment. They also have a brake fluid-resistant clear urethane covering that helps protect the stainless steel braid.
 

2thman

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Originally posted by toofast4u
No there is not a problem only changing the front pads independent of the rear.

I am going with the new stainless steel lines from Maximum Motorsports. The really funny thing about stainless steel lines is even though in controlling line pressure they are extremely strong in every other respect they are very fragile. The new MM lines have banjo fittings that allow the hose end to swivel at the chassis prior to tightening to allow proper alignment. They also have a brake fluid-resistant clear urethane covering that helps protect the stainless steel braid.

But do they have the ss out for 03's? Their website does not list them. I was gonna get some from http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/cobra.htm Russell makes them.
:shrug:

jason
 

Bingo13

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Order the MM lines. I have tried the Goodridge and Russell, broke fittings on both while going to the track setup.
 

toofast4u

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Bingo what do you use to bleed your brakes. I just ordered a Motive pressurization system that a couple of track guys I know swear by. They said they can change there entire fluid in a matter of minutes and don't have to worry about pumping the brake or air in the system.

It looks neat I wonder if it could be cleaned out enough to be use for filling the transmission and differential also.

Power%20Bleeder.JPG
 

Bingo13

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Originally posted by toofast4u
Bingo what do you use to bleed your brakes. I just ordered a Motive pressurization system that a couple of track guys I know swear by. They said they can change there entire fluid in a matter of minutes and don't have to worry about pumping the brake or air in the system.

It looks neat I wonder if it could be cleaned out enough to be use for filling the transmission and differential also.

Power%20Bleeder.JPG


Shadetree Deluxe Kit-

Turkey Baster and converted fertilizer pump spray bottle. :D

I can have the brake fluid changed in about 10 minutes going about the same way. Although I am getting tired of pumping of the damn thing. I put that Motive item on the Christmas list. :thumbsup:
 

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