spark plug emergency!!

dicks 99 cobra

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Well lately my car has been running like crap so I decided to change the spark plugs. When I took out the boot from the first spark plug I noticed that it was barely gripping the spark plug and that it was completely covered in oil. All the other spark plugs look exactly the same; they are surrounded by a pool of oil. Could this be a sign of a bad valve cover gasket? I really need help.
 

dicks 99 cobra

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So my only option is to replace the valve cover gasket, how long does the job usually take? I just cant beleive that both the passenger and driver side are in the exact same shape.
 

snake bite 03

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well u need to change both valve cover gaskets and the 8 o ring lookin things that go between the head and valve cover that keep the oil out of the plug area...You could do the pass side in an hour but the driver side is a whole nother story its a PITA!!!!
 
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SilverSnake01 said:
well u need to change both valve cover gaskets and the 8 o ring lookin things that go between the head and valve cover that keep the oil out of the plug area...You could do the pass side in an hour but the driver side is a whole nother story its a PITA!!!!


What makes the driver side so much more complicated? I have to do exactly this on my driver side head & valve cover.
 

Quadcammer

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the clutch cable, master cylinder, and shock tower are pretty much in the way.
 

RoyWoods

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The passenger side one isn't that much fun either. The A/C line gets in the way and makes it somewhat awkward to get the cover off. Technically, you're supposed to disconnect it, but who wants to mess with all that hassle just for a valve cover gasket. I didn't do the driver side, b/c you're supposed to remove the entire brake master cylinder from the vehicle, and it looks like you've really got to in order to get that valve cover out.

Just a little FYI, one of my valve cover bolts was cross threaded, from the factory, into my cam bearing cap. Treat those bolts like you were changing you're spark plugs, or it could lead to big problems.
 

dicks 99 cobra

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I just realized I have another problem. The boots that connect to the spark plugs were damaged by the oil, now they do not stay attached to the spark plugs. Its almost as if they streched out. Does anybody know if I can buy this part seperately or does it only come with the coil pack.
 
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dicks 99 cobra said:
I just realized I have another problem. The boots that connect to the spark plugs were damaged by the oil, now they do not stay attached to the spark plugs. Its almost as if they streched out. Does anybody know if I can buy this part seperately or does it only come with the coil pack.


You can go to rpmoutlet.com and buy the GMS connector and silicone boots minus the coil pack. I recently replaced my stock connector and rubber boot, but kept the stock coil pack. Paid $100 for 8 silicone boots and the wire conenctor. No fitment issues either. No coil cover spacer needed.
 

dicks 99 cobra

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So im going to order the gasket from ford today. Can somebody give me a quick run through on what I need to remove in order to pull the covers out. And i'm also not sure about the torque specs on the bolts. Thanks.
 

RoyWoods

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dicks 99 cobra said:
So im going to order the gasket from ford today. Can somebody give me a quick run through on what I need to remove in order to pull the covers out. And i'm also not sure about the torque specs on the bolts. Thanks.

This is a "summary" from the Ford manual. Use new silicone in the areas where you scraped away the old silicone. From personal experience, if you're careful, you can skip steps 4 and 5 when you remove the RH valve cover.

Valve Cover — RH
1. Remove the RH ignition coils.
2. Disconnect the fuel line.
3. Remove the throttle body and intake assembly.
4. Remove the A/C condenser to evaporator line.
5. Remove the A/C manifold and tube assembly.
6. Disconnect the evaporative emissions return tube.
7. Remove the RH valve cover.

Valve Cover — LH
1. Remove the hydro boost brake booster.
2. Disconnect the clutch cable at the clutch pedal and position out
of the way.
3. Remove the LH ignition coils.
4. Remove the bolt and position the oil level indicator tube aside.
5. Position the PCV valve aside.
6. Remove the LH valve cover.

CAUTION:
Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.

89 in/lbs. for valve cover bolts and oil level indicator tube.
 

RoyWoods

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dicks 99 cobra said:
Thats great, thanks.

Good luck and I hope it helps. Also, here is a picture of the torque sequence for the bolts.

cover1.jpg
 

bobbystang

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yah i had a lil problem similar when facing the engine on the driver side the plug closest to the steering wheel, when i pulled the plug at the bottom there was a lil oil round it, so is this my problem then?
 

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