Spark Plug Change??

[riplightning]

Yes I am somewhat of a novice at this. I want to change my plugs to the NGK TR6. What tools do I need to do this i.e. socket size and instructions please.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[IcebourgGT500]

Riplightning, who in the Houston area custom tunes/dyno tunes the 03 Cobra. Are there any Performance shops near you.

Thanks

 

[ronreid03]

I used a 10 mm socket to remove the coil pack covers. You'll have to remove the intake tube from the MAF to the throttle body to access the passenger side cover. The tube is held on with hose clamps. (5/16" socket). I also disconnected the Inlet Air Temp. sensor (IAT) to make removing the tube easier. On the tube there's two hoses attached. One for the crankcase ventilation and small one that appears to be a vacuum line. these just pull off. I placed a rag over the MAF to prevent unwanted entry of dirt or parts.

The spark plug wrench was 5/8" and having the rubber "gripper" inside the wrench makes the job much easier. I torqued the plugs to 12 ft-lbs and used anti-seize on the threads.

To remove the boots I just lifted up on the coil pack and the boot popped right off. When I reinstalled them some didn't really feel like they were on but the car runs well so I guess they are!

Just be sure to clean around the plug wells so no dirt drops in there. I used my vacuum cleaner for this.

It only took about 30 minutes start to finish.

By the way I used the NGKs and had them gapped to .040. When I had my car dynotuned this weekend there was some evidence of spark blowout at high RPMs so the tuner (www.Fordchip.com) recommended regapping to .035. I did this but haven't had a chancce to take the car out for a run yet due to bad weather.

Hope this is helpful.

Ron Reid
03 Yellow convertible

 

[Cobra'03]

Coupla adds:

1) Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the plug threads
2) Ensure the engine is cold
3) Torque the plugs to spec - do not overtighten
4) Disconnect the wiring clip from the coil harness for each plug - just press with your thumb and they come off. This will reduce strain on the coil/boot assembly.

 

[riplightning]

Yes there are performance shops near me but I just wanted the feeling of working on the car myself, you know how it is when you do a bolt on item and the feeling of accomplishment you get when you finish.

ronried and Cobra'03, Thanks for the help fella's. This is one of the things I love about this board.

I will be doing the change this weekend with a printout of your detailed instructions.

 

[VintagePorscheG]

Learned from my old group GrandPrix 3.8 supercharged group that when running the eaton 90 with a undersized pulley that you will want to run a plug 1 step colder for every 2lbs of boost over stock....

So yes for example the NKG TR6 would be 2 steps colder and would be my plug of choice with the 2.92 pulley.

know however that you will want to change these more often than normal.

 

[riplightning]

Thanks for the clarification. I am going to install the 2.93 pulley at a later date.

Will it be OK to run the NGK TR6 plugs before I get the pulley installed?

 

[A's Cobra]

what is the next colder plug below a tr6, like if you were running a 2.8?

 

[POISNUS]

The next step goes into the racing plugs. I believe it is a r5724-7. I will check at Ramchargers tomorrow. I used to work there and found the plugs for my buddy's L. They are also the same plugs used on LT1's if I remember correctly.

Jason

 

[Cobra'03]

Originally posted by riplightning
Thanks for the clarification. I am going to install the 2.93 pulley at a later date.

Will it be OK to run the NGK TR6 plugs before I get the pulley installed?

Yes. I am because my hotted chip with more advance earlier in the rpm curve will produce more heat, and I do little traffic driving, so a bit colder should not be a problem. Again, plan on changing them at 15k or so.