Solid Shifter Stub Isolator

[Draiter]

Soooo, after reading some threads and a brief email exchange with Tob regarding the rubber isolator I decided to take things in my own hands.
As you know there is a rubber isolator between the stock stick and the stub. When putting the car in gear, or shifting hard there almost feels like there is "flex" in the isolator. It almost feels like you put pressure on the stick, it flexes, and then jumps into gear. Tob told me that the FRPP stick bolts directly to the stub, and that Steeda "may" make sold bushings that would replace the rubber isolator.
Had a look, to no avail, thus, this is what I came up with.
All made from 6061 aluminum.

This replaces the rubber section that goes between the stick and the shifter stub. The center portion of the aluminum plate is milled down the center and the stick fits into it.




Aluminum back place and the two front spacers that replace the outside portion of the isolator and the steel "wrap". Top spacer has a flat portion on the lip milled into it


Spacers inserted into stick portion of shifter. The bottom spacer looks like it is too small in this picture, but it's just a shadow. The spacers fit very tight.


Bolts through spacers



Backing plate, stick, spacers and bolts. The stick sits in the center of the back plate which was milled out



Here you can see how the stick sits in the recess in the back plate, and why I had to mill the bottom of the top spacer flat.

I did this all on a manual lathe, and manual mill - NO CNC. and I didn't bother facing the spacers or the backing plate. It doesn't look all that pretty, but I wasn't going to waste my time on the appearance of something you NEVER see - it was purely functional

Result - Quite a difference. The "flex" that I mentioned before is gone. The shifting action feels A LOT more precise and direct. Push in the clutch, put it into first and it goes directly into to first. Bang from 1st to 2nd and there is no "slop" it is very direct.

There is almost NO increase in NHV while the car is in motion and not no extra noise coming through the stick while driving. The only noise comes from the actual shifting itself, but it is minimal at most, nothing that is bothersome.

If you can source a solid isolator, or replace the stick with one that directly bolts to the shifter stub.... DO IT....

 

[Tob]

Whoa. Props for tackling this one head on!

FRPP sells direct fit sticks that don't use the isolator (like we talked about).

Regarding choosing aluminum over steel for the milled and drilled plate you did, this may play more into why Ford's OEM steel forks may be quieter than the typical billet forked aftermarket design, breeze through this (its a bit simplified but it gets the idea across well).

http://www.exo.net/~pauld/summer_institute/summer_day11sound/ringing _Al_rod.html

Different materials have different rates at which organized motion is turned into heat.
Aluminum bars ring for a long time.
Steel bars ring for a shorter time and lead bars ring for a shorter time still.

While heavier, steel pieces may work to keep the assembly quieter. Regardless, great work!!

 

[Draiter]

Thanks Tob.
I figured I might as well use the old pieces of aluminum stock I had lying around. I have to say it's such a big change for such a simple modification.
I was thinking about using steel, but didn't have any on hand, and on the lathe I have it is much more difficult to turn. I might make another set out of steel when I get some time.
Only took about an hour or so to make and it is perfectly functional. It's not too shabby for someone self-taught.
To be honest, the hardest part was figuring out how to remove the shifter boot...lol

The other option I was considering is much simpler ..two 9mm steel plates, with two holes drilled in them to fit the bolts, then welded to the stick, but that option is fairly permanent, whereas the route I went is removable.

Cheers

 

[Tob]

I understand. I typically use whatever I have on hand as well. You did a great job.

Combine the "solid stick" with a pair of solid fork bushings (as well as a stiffer rear bushing if possible) and the factory shifter takes on new life. It really makes driving the car hard that much more enjoyable.

 

[Draiter]

Going to order the solid shifter bushings this week. Trying to find the higher durometer rear bushing without having to order the whole kr shifter

 

[Tob]

I spoke with the gentleman that makes the solid bushings that Van sells about machining a mold for a new higher durometer rear bushing but I don't know if there would be enough interest...

 

[Ninjak]

Wow...nice mod. Great work.

 

[A.M.R]

I spoke with the gentleman that makes the solid bushings that Van sells about machining a mold for a new higher durometer rear bushing but I don't know if there would be enough interest...

Interested

 

[01mingreyvert]

I did mine like this thread. Direct mounted the shifter no rubber bushings. Even brings the shifter closer to your body so your not reaching for 1st or 3rd. Love it, feels solid and the shifter is centered in the boot opening.
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/80901-omg-what-a-massive-difference-in-shifter/
Here is the stick I used with a speed dawg knob and boot retainer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-5-Sho...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f35758902&vxp=mtr

 

[Tob]

Interested

I launched an inquiry with respect to availability of the rear bushing FRPP uses on both the KR and SVT/FRPP shifter.

 

[BCPD199]

I spoke with the gentleman that makes the solid bushings that Van sells about machining a mold for a new higher durometer rear bushing but I don't know if there would be enough interest...

That doesn't make any sense. If there was enough interest to justify making the solid bushings, I would think there would be the same level of interest in the rear bushing. If you're not going to go to all that work to access the rail bushings and not spend another 10 minutes to do the rear. Better yet, sell it as a package.

 

[Tob]

Having been involved in the process, I'm here to tell you, it makes sense.

And from that perspective, that is why I am looking into the rear bushing. Because obviously, and as you see, it would be prudent to do both the solid front and a high(er) durometer rear poly bushing at the same time. But you have to understand, enthusiasts can be a fickle bunch. You can do everything within your power to convince someone how good "X" may be. For whatever reason, they still choose "Y" instead.

All I can say is that I'm looking into it so that ultimately a vendor such as Van at Revan Racing could offer the solid/poly combination together.

 

[2011 gtcs]

I'm going to rider the Hurst short stick, according the guys on team shelby it makes a big difference

 

[force recon]

I spoke with the gentleman that makes the solid bushings that Van sells about machining a mold for a new higher durometer rear bushing but I don't know if there would be enough interest...

I would be VERY interested in one!!!

 

[carguy19]

This is the ford part they list.... if it helps....

 

[Wharf Rat]

I did essentially the same thing on my 95 with a boatload of washers. In fact it's worked so good I forgot about it till I saw this thread. Might hafta try the same thing on this car...

 

[Tob]

This is the ford part they list.... if it helps....

That stick works very well - on '07 to '09 models. But it won't work with '10 and later shifters because Ford rotated the bolt face 90* from where it used to be. I have that stick in black on my '09 and its a great piece.

 

[Wharf Rat]

Here's where most of the slop comes from. This same sloppy bushing has been used since the Fox Mustang days. You'd be surprised how much more precise a stock shifter is when you do something like the OP did or just replace them with some washers and new bolts.

 

[carguy19]

That stick works very well - on '07 to '09 models. But it won't work with '10 and later shifters because Ford rotated the bolt face 90* from where it used to be. I have that stick in black on my '09 and its a great piece.

Maybe we can find someone with some machining skills to drill and tap some holes in this ? Would it work ?

 

[Tob]

You'd be better off just buying a complete KR shifter/stick as both are ridiculously cheap right now since FRPP dumped their KR stock.