Solid guys come in here

[black04vert]

You guys with solid's what upper and lower control arms are you guys using? I heard that if you use a adjustable uppers it will offset the differential to one side up to half an inch, is this true?

Has anyone used MM weight jackers? and how do you like them?

what about Steeda's adjustable or solid upppers?

Trying to get some feed back, Thanks

 

[MVD]

You guys with solid's what upper and lower control arms are you guys using? I heard that if you use a adjustable uppers it will offset the differential to one side up to half an inch, is this true?

Has anyone used MM weight jackers? and how do you like them?

what about Steeda's adjustable or solid upppers?

Trying to get some feed back, Thanks

Where did you hear that?? The purpose of adjustable uppers is to set a correct pinion angle. It is impossible to offset the differential from side to side since it would still be held in place by the lowers.

MM WJ's are nice. And Steeda makes quality uppers.

 

[BADASS03SVT]

like said above...uppers are for pinion angle..thats it

i used WJ all last year...good if you want to match the ride height on each side or you swap in taller tires for the track. imo though..the MM stuff is WAY too expensive. I bought Pro3i ones...same thing

 

[black04vert]

like said above...uppers are for pinion angle..thats it

i used WJ all last year...good if you want to match the ride height on each side or you swap in taller tires for the track. imo though..the MM stuff is WAY too expensive. I bought Pro3i ones...same thing

Where did you buy the Pro3i ones at?

 

[BADASS03SVT]

Where did you buy the Pro3i ones at?

they used to be exclusive (i think) through stangnet....looks like they changed their name though.

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=8

 

[black04vert]

they used to be exclusive (i think) through stangnet....looks like they changed their name though.

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=8

thanks

 

[MVD]

Steeda makes a sweet set of WJ's too.

 

[Trick Pony]

If you ask me, you get what you pay for with suspension stuff. Cheap arms usually have either shitty bushings that will break down quickly on a high hp car, or bushings that are way too stiff for a street driven car that will introduce a ton of bind in the suspension, damage torque boxes and increase wheel rate as well as cause snap oversteer when it breaks loose. Also seen cheap arms bend and the swaybar mount break off too.
I run all MM stuff on my car - HD torque arm, panhard bar, weight-jacker lowers, no uppers. It's been on there for a long time and taken everything I can dish out in stride - tons of street driving on shitty roads, roadracing, and drag launches.
I would actually recommend MM lower arms and Ford HD replacement upper arms if it's a street driver.

 

[Trick Pony]

Where did you hear that?? The purpose of adjustable uppers is to set a correct pinion angle. It is impossible to offset the differential from side to side since it would still be held in place by the lowers.

Not exactly true. It is possible with adjustable uppers if you do a bad enough job of setting them up to screw up axle alignment but if you adjust them properly then that won't be an issue.
Don't kid yourself into thinking the lowers do jack squat in helping to maintain the lateral location of the axle because they don't.

 

[03cobramanIII]

i got hpm bars upper adjustable and mega bite jr lowers .i got the bolt on the bottom hole.i had to fight my arms in place where they go into the housing.

 

[SVTSonicCobra]

You guys with solid's what upper and lower control arms are you guys using? I heard that if you use a adjustable uppers it will offset the differential to one side up to half an inch, is this true?

Has anyone used MM weight jackers? and how do you like them?

what about Steeda's adjustable or solid upppers?

Trying to get some feed back, Thanks

I am running steeda upper conrtol arms, and lakewood traction bars for the lower arms (they work awsome), steeda rear sway bar, H&R Springs and QA1 rear shocks, here's a couple of pic.....

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[black04vert]

I am running steeda upper conrtol arms, and lakewood traction bars for the lower arms (they work awsome), steeda rear sway bar, H&R Springs and QA1 rear shocks, here's a couple of pic.....

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That look nice.

 

[MVD]

I am running steeda upper conrtol arms, and lakewood traction bars for the lower arms (they work awsome), steeda rear sway bar, H&R Springs and QA1 rear shocks, here's a couple of pic.....

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Weld them tubes ;-)

 

[black04vert]

Has anybody regreted going solid? I hear the ride quality is different, but is it that bad? A regular GT or Mach 1 have solid's do they handle decent?

I saw that there are kits to help improve the IRS with wheel hop but seems like you have to do a lot of work and it's more expensive. I already replace the IRS in my car once dont want to do it again, I know if I use Dr's it helps, when I use M/T ET street no problem but, I like to drive the car so I am limited to those tires.

Just trying to get some input here, before I change anything.

 

[SVTSonicCobra]

Weld them tubes ;-)

Currie Enterprise says not too, when you weld them it dosen't give any flex and over time causes the weld to crack and could make the tubes turn. When you don't have the tubes welded it gives it some flex and they said thats what you want. Now don't get me wrong the tubes are welded but from the inside. Which is called a rosette weld. Currie Enterprise says the tubes are precisionly fitted and then pressed into the housing and then they fill the 4 holes with weld (rosette weld).... Plus for added safety I went with LPW axle tube braces.........

 

[03cobramanIII]

Has anybody regreted going solid? I hear the ride quality is different, but is it that bad? A regular GT or Mach 1 have solid's do they handle decent?

I saw that there are kits to help improve the IRS with wheel hop but seems like you have to do a lot of work and it's more expensive. I already replace the IRS in my car once dont want to do it again, I know if I use Dr's it helps, when I use M/T ET street no problem but, I like to drive the car so I am limited to those tires.

Just trying to get some input here, before I change anything.

some people dont like cobra people swapping tham out , but you dont see us solid guys bitching as much to you ? i like mine. its a must imo. im going to hook like a mofo at the track without going snap crackle pop LOL

 

[MVD]

Currie Enterprise says not too, when you weld them it dosen't give any flex and over time causes the weld to crack and could make the tubes turn. When you don't have the tubes welded it gives it some flex and they said thats what you want. Now don't get me wrong the tubes are welded but from the inside. Which is called a rosette weld. Currie Enterprise says the tubes are precisionly fitted and then pressed into the housing and then they fill the 4 holes with weld (rosette weld).... Plus for added safety I went with LPW axle tube braces.........

So Currie says not to weld the axle tubes because they will crack over time, yet they weld yours?? It doesn't matter if the weld is from inside the housing or outside the tubes are still fixed to the housing.

What am I missing here.

 

[03cobramanIII]

mine is welded on the outside. its brutal.

 

[SVTSonicCobra]

So Currie says not to weld the axle tubes because they will crack over time, yet they weld yours?? It doesn't matter if the weld is from inside the housing or outside the tubes are still fixed to the housing.

What am I missing here.

;

Yes, thats what they told me, Mine is welded from the inside, There are holes that are filled with weld (rosette weld). When it's welded from the inside it gives it some flex and when it's welded from the outside its alot more stiff and dosen't flex; and that causes your weld to crack, because of too much stress. Really it's just personal preference....... I went this way because of what they said and I want it to last..

 

[MVD]

;

Yes, thats what they told me, Mine is welded from the inside, There are holes that are filled with weld (rosette weld). When it's welded from the inside it gives it some flex and when it's welded from the outside its alot more stiff and dosen't flex; and that causes your weld to crack, because of too much stress. Really it's just personal preference....... I went this way because of what they said and I want it to last..

Do you understand the welding process?? When two metals are welded together they become one solid unit......there is no flex...zero. It is irrelevant of if the weld is on the inside or the outside or if the two pieces were TIG, MIG or stick welded.

IMO sounds like Currie sold you a story, but if you are happy thats all that matters.